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1984 GL Hatchback HELP!


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58 replies to this topic

#1 Attractor1

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Posted 09 May 2009 - 11:50 PM

I got a 1984 GL Hatch 4x4. I just rebuilt the carb and replaced the front axles. But.... When the car warms up it wants to die and when i press on the accelerator it jumps. It also does this after i shut it off and turn it over again. I tried unplugging the EGR but it only made it worse..... Help????? I don't have my heat riser on at the moment?? Vacumm Leak?? Remember it onl does this when it gets warm.

#2 '84 Flat-Four

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Posted 10 May 2009 - 02:03 AM

Welcome!
You'll find this to be the best place on the internet for anything Subaru related!

Sounds like you have a Hitachi carb...

I'm sure if u do have a hitachi, most here will tell you to SPFI or Weber it... let me tell u,...
I weberized my 84 gl wagon (just this past week as a matter of fact...), ... worth every penny! Idles like a dream and purrs like a kitten...

I was sick and tired of tweaking the Hitachi to get it to run half-way decent... After Weberizing it, it's like a new engine... it really brought the EA81 to life...:)

Tell us what you have under the hood and I'm sure you'll find a wealth of information in the replies... do you have a black or blue kidney-bean shaped air filter housing?

Edited by '84 Flat-Four, 10 May 2009 - 02:25 AM.


#3 Durania

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Posted 10 May 2009 - 07:31 AM

84 is going to have a blue one. You sure none of your fuel filters are stopped up? Just throwing that out there.

#4 Attractor1

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Posted 10 May 2009 - 10:32 AM

Fuel filters are good and it is the light blue air cleaner with all that retarded emissions stuff... I want to get a weber but i just don't got the cash... Ya 1.8L with Hitachi carb. But it still dies when it warms up which i am most confused about....:-\

#5 '84 Flat-Four

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Posted 10 May 2009 - 11:16 AM

Both FFs?

maybe choke related?
How does it run when it's not warmed up... rich or lean?

Does adjusting the idle mixture and idle speed screws help at all?

You mentioned rebuilding the carb... i presume you adjusted the float level to 10.5mm (7/8"), or close to that...

Shot throttle bushings can be a major vac leak... with my hitachi, this vac leak wouldn't appear until the engine got hot... then it would be a PITA to get it started again when all warmed up...

Just throwing things out there... hoping General Disorder will chime in here soon... GD has helped me out tremendously with these stupid HiCrappies... I know it stinks waiting for a reply, but it's the weekend and you should get a flow of answers and suggestions here soon... hang in there...

#6 Attractor1

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Posted 10 May 2009 - 12:47 PM

When its cold it runs like a champ :D The choke seems to be operating well. And i meant my one FF. The fuel filter gets air in it when it sits not running???

#7 Attractor1

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Posted 10 May 2009 - 12:49 PM

Where are those shot throttle bushings?? And we didn't adjust the float at all because its right where we want it and idk what level but it seems to be perfect.

#8 Attractor1

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Posted 10 May 2009 - 12:50 PM

I know where the idle speed adjuster is but there isn't another screw for the mixture??? If there is where?

#9 ihscout54

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Posted 10 May 2009 - 02:54 PM

The mixture screw is on the front in the snout sticking out of base of the carb. There are 2 holes ontop eachother. The one you want is the bottom hole. Use a stubby flat head. There may be a pin through the holes that you might have to drive out first befor you can access the mixture screw. Ide chec for vac leaks first. The choke can hide alot.

"and when i press on the accelerator it jumps"

Im not sure what you mean but perhaps you simply need to up your idle speed.

#10 Attractor1

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Posted 10 May 2009 - 05:48 PM

When it jumps i mean it lurches and then backs off and lurches and backs of continuously with no solid acceleration. Just "chugging" i guess is how i could put it......

#11 '84 Flat-Four

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Posted 11 May 2009 - 07:27 AM

throttle bushings are located inside the throttle body of your carb, the lowest portion. It sits up against your intake manifold... here's the link to my thread and a pic for reference...
http://www.ultimates...ead.php?t=98105

Bump for the Carburetor Gods to chime in... :)

#12 '84 Flat-Four

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Posted 11 May 2009 - 09:11 AM

And i meant my one FF. The fuel filter gets air in it when it sits not running???


There are two FFs. One on passenger's side, under the car by rear tire, and the other is under the hood, driver's side. What do you mean the FF is getting air in it?

#13 Attractor1

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Posted 11 May 2009 - 04:48 PM

Th drivers side filter gets air in it when the car is not running. I followed all the hoses to make sure they were connected and they were so im confused....... And onw of my buddies said that maybe the cadylletic converter may be causing this whole not running problem??????????????????????????????????

#14 TomRhere

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Posted 12 May 2009 - 04:09 AM

Main fuel filter is under the car by the fuel pump. The one under the hood is a vapor seperator, and it will get some air space in it if the engiine isn't running.

Change the filter at the back, see if that helps. It cured the '85 BRATs jerkyness. It's symptons were like yours. Idle good, drove down the road good unless I wound it out to long going thru the gears, then it woould start the herky-jerky stuff. Changed the rear filter and it was good to go.

#15 GeneralDisorder

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Posted 12 May 2009 - 02:07 PM

if its not running when warm (choke off) then you have either a vacuum leak or the carb is plugged up somewhere. Its probably not the fuel filter and definately not the cat.

GD

#16 Attractor1

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Posted 16 May 2009 - 09:17 PM

Ok so i think i found the vac problem. but now when it warms up it idles great, however when pressing in the accelerator the engine has a dead spot at like 2000 rpm. ummm?????? EGR???

#17 GeneralDisorder

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Posted 16 May 2009 - 09:45 PM

Ok so i think i found the vac problem. but now when it warms up it idles great, however when pressing in the accelerator the engine has a dead spot at like 2000 rpm. ummm?????? EGR???


It's not transitioning properly to the secondary barrel. Possibly the accelerator pump is not functioning or the throttle plates aren't set correctly for the transition ports (or they are blocked).

Stop blaming things on the EGR. They are not responsible for running issues unlesss they are stuck open (huge vac leak). They nearly always are stuck closed and function effectively as a block-off plate under such conditions.

GD

#18 Attractor1

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Posted 16 May 2009 - 10:30 PM

The only thing is that this dead zone has happened on two different carbs. i tried another carb and it did the same thing at 2000 rpm

#19 Durania

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Posted 17 May 2009 - 12:57 AM

Get some detailed pictures of your carb setup and post them on here. Are you positive you have your carb, and vacuum lines correct?

#20 Attractor1

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Posted 22 May 2009 - 05:03 PM

Alright so i was checking out my carb barrels when i accelerate and i found that my second barrel is NOT opening.. im thinking this is the problem but how can i fix it??? By the way its the hitachi

#21 '84 Flat-Four

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Posted 22 May 2009 - 05:31 PM

I would manually actuate the plate, maybe even PB blast it (with the carb off of course) to free it up... maybe that'll do the trick...

you can always do the mod to keep 2nd barrel open, bypassing diaphram (which sounds like it's shot)...

http://www.ultimates...ead.php?t=49976

Btw, my carb was already setup with this mod when i got it. It passed emissions with it! :headbang:
But eventually I had to weberize due to a few other major problems with the Hicrappy carb.

I suggest you weberize it... it's soooooooo sweet! :burnout:

#22 Attractor1

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Posted 22 May 2009 - 05:42 PM

That might just do it i have to run out and about but i'll give a shot later

#23 Attractor1

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Posted 22 May 2009 - 07:59 PM

Ok so i tried it and all it did was increase my idle rpm. it still has that bald spot at 2000 rpm. idk wut the frick is wrong with it

#24 '84 Flat-Four

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Posted 22 May 2009 - 09:25 PM

Yes that is the drawback to the mod, but the lesser of two evils.
Try playing w/ idle mixture & idle speed screws. Idle mixture screw is on front, lower screw, maybe a roll pin in front needs to be removed beforehand, but sometimes already removed.
Good luck & keep us updated on ur progress.

#25 Attractor1

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Posted 22 May 2009 - 11:11 PM

Tried moving the screws around and it had no effect. :mad: maybe its time to surrender the cash that i don't have:(




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