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Front axle roll pin
#1
Posted 27 May 2009 - 07:33 PM
#2
Posted 27 May 2009 - 07:33 PM
GD
#3
Posted 27 May 2009 - 07:54 PM
if you can't seem to get the in-and-out lined up right, try sticking a hex or something else in place enough to hold it while you drive it in from the other side.
#4
Posted 27 May 2009 - 08:14 PM
This project has turned into a project.
#5
Posted 27 May 2009 - 10:25 PM
GD
#6
Posted 27 May 2009 - 10:33 PM
Would a grade 8 bolt work?
#7
Posted 27 May 2009 - 10:40 PM
I thought that too but the math wouldnt add up, I dont think. Its really that minute. I read the receipt I got and it said its for all EXCEPT the M/T Turbo.
Would a grade 8 bolt work?
I wouldn't use a grade 8 bolt - it's got no spring to it and wouldn't withstand the push and pull of the splines sliding. The roll pin has a certain amount of flex in it. It would probably work for a while but I would take the axle back if it wasn't fitting properly. That's either the wrong axle or it was machined improperly. Either is more than just possible.
GD
#8
Posted 27 May 2009 - 10:41 PM
#9
Posted 27 May 2009 - 10:42 PM

I contacted them. Lovely, now I get to take it apart again. Thanks for bouncing thoughts.
#10
Posted 28 May 2009 - 12:31 PM
I know this is all you have to do, because just like some of the other members that have posted, I've done this enough times that I can do it mith my eyes closed.
#11
Posted 28 May 2009 - 12:36 PM
[sigh]
Every other time I have done these, first try they worked. Never would have thought there was only one way to put them on.
#12
Posted 28 May 2009 - 02:24 PM
And I was going to say, you could try tapping a nail into it that is the right
size and bending the end over so it doesn't fall out.
I think it would flex enough to not shear too quickly.
Just an idea...
Twitch
#13
Posted 28 May 2009 - 02:28 PM
#14
Posted 28 May 2009 - 02:32 PM
Check the bevel on the hole; only one direction has the bevel. Match it up with the bevel on the stub axle and you'll be okay. Lesson learned. Trust me, we've all done it.I've done this a few times, never had an issue. I went and checked this morning. Of course it is all put back together already. I pulled the wheel, pulled the lower control arm bolt, torsion bar bolt and stabilizer bolts. Pull the stub off, rotated it 180 degrees....do I have to complete this.............
[sigh]
Every other time I have done these, first try they worked. Never would have thought there was only one way to put them on.

#15
Posted 28 May 2009 - 02:41 PM

#16
Posted 28 May 2009 - 02:43 PM
Well....its too far away for my reading glasses....and too close for my normal glasses.....
doh.
#17
Posted 28 May 2009 - 10:28 PM
I'm with you there. I do it by feel most of the time. Also the bevelled hole is the one you want to insert the roll pin into when you hammer it home.Well....its too far away for my reading glasses....and too close for my normal glasses.....
#18
Posted 28 May 2009 - 10:38 PM
I'm working on getting my axles out of my 90 lego.
Twitch
#19
Posted 28 May 2009 - 10:39 PM
I'm with you there. I do it by feel most of the time. Also the bevelled hole is the one you want to insert the roll pin into when you hammer it home.
FWIW, my experience has been that the roll pin will go in from either side. Often there is an end to a used roll pin that is more tapered than the other - but only sometimes and only on used pins. The beveled hole is easier to get the pin started in though.
GD
#20
Posted 28 May 2009 - 10:41 PM
Hey guys, what did y'all use to drive out the roll pin?
I'm working on getting my axles out of my 90 lego.
Twitch
3/16" pin punch. It's actually a 5mm roll pin, but a 3/16" is close enough. Snap-On and Mac, etc sell true 5mm roll pin punches.
DO NOT try to use a drill bit - they will shatter.
GD
#21
Posted 29 May 2009 - 01:34 AM
True enough, but it's truly easier to drive the pin in from the bevelled hole and out from the other side.FWIW, my experience has been that the roll pin will go in from either side. Often there is an end to a used roll pin that is more tapered than the other - but only sometimes and only on used pins. The beveled hole is easier to get the pin started in though.
GD
#22
Posted 29 May 2009 - 01:40 AM
Craftsman # 42885 WF (the letters are not important but the numbers are correct) is the tool I use to knock out the roll pin. The right diameter and just long enough to knock out the pin without getting stuck in the hole. Plus when it wears out I get another for free from Sears.
Edited by edrach, 29 May 2009 - 01:42 AM.
#23
Posted 29 May 2009 - 09:45 AM
Thank you GD as well.
The craftsman 42885, got it.
Back to the original topic...
Twitch

#24
Posted 29 May 2009 - 10:48 AM
Thanls Ed, and I didn't mean to start a spat over all this...
Thank you GD as well.
The craftsman 42885, got it.
Back to the original topic...
Twitch
We had a bigger spat a few months ago, about the same thing.
Different members tho

Sooo, it pays to search

#25
Posted 29 May 2009 - 10:57 PM
Matco tools sells a neat little designed for this purpose and it is only about $17.00. I bought one and it makes the job a lot easier.
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