Jump to content


Welcome to Ultimate Subaru Message Board, my lurker friend!

Welcome to Ultimate Subaru Message Board, an unparalleled Subaru community full of the greatest Subaru gurus and modders on the planet! We offer technical information and discussion about all things Subaru, the best and most popular all wheel drive vehicles ever created.

We offer all this information for free to everyone, even lurkers like you! All we ask in return is that you sign up and give back some of what you get out - without our awesome registered users none of this would be possible! Plus, you get way more great stuff as a member! Lurk to lose, participate to WIN*!
  • Say hello and join the conversation
  • Subscribe to topics and forums to get automatic updates
  • Get your own profile and make new friends
  • Classifieds with all sorts of Subaru goodies
  • Photo hosting in our gallery
  • Meet other cool people with cool cars
Seriously, what are you waiting for? Make your life more fulfilling and join today! You and your Subaru won't regret it, we guarantee** it.

* The joy of participation and being generally awesome constitutes winning
** Not an actual guarantee, but seriously, you probably won't regret it!

Serving the Subaru Community since May 18th, 1998!

Guest Message by DevFuse
 

Photo
- - - - -

Front axle roll pin


  • Please log in to reply
30 replies to this topic

#1 opus

opus

    Subaru Nut

  • Members
  • 735 posts
  • Trout Creek

Posted 27 May 2009 - 07:33 PM

The hole doesnt line up good enough to put the roll pin in. Whats with that? Tried moving it about, left and right. Its off by 1/16" maybe.

#2 GeneralDisorder

GeneralDisorder

    Elite Master of the Subaru

  • Members
  • 20,281 posts
  • Portland

Posted 27 May 2009 - 07:33 PM

You have the splines 180 degrees out. It only lines up one way.

GD

#3 grossgary

grossgary

    Elite Master of the Subaru

  • Members
  • 20,010 posts
  • WV

Posted 27 May 2009 - 07:54 PM

you can tell the "correct" orientation by looking at the splines. on the axle pin hole, one side will have a "V" in the middle of the pin hole, the other will have a "hump" in the middle. line it up accordingly on the stubby shaft.

if you can't seem to get the in-and-out lined up right, try sticking a hex or something else in place enough to hold it while you drive it in from the other side.

#4 opus

opus

    Subaru Nut

  • Members
  • 735 posts
  • Trout Creek

Posted 27 May 2009 - 08:14 PM

I've tried this thing 8 ways to Sunday, no go. Can I get a grade 8 and put it in there with a squash nut?

This project has turned into a project.

#5 GeneralDisorder

GeneralDisorder

    Elite Master of the Subaru

  • Members
  • 20,281 posts
  • Portland

Posted 27 May 2009 - 10:25 PM

Perhaps you have a 25 spline axle and a 23 spline stub? That's the only way I know of for them to not line up. I've installed more axles than I care to remember (several dozen anyway) and I've never had one that didn't line up with at most a 180 degree turn.

GD

#6 opus

opus

    Subaru Nut

  • Members
  • 735 posts
  • Trout Creek

Posted 27 May 2009 - 10:33 PM

I thought that too but the math wouldnt add up, I dont think. Its really that minute. I read the receipt I got and it said its for all EXCEPT the M/T Turbo.

Would a grade 8 bolt work?

#7 GeneralDisorder

GeneralDisorder

    Elite Master of the Subaru

  • Members
  • 20,281 posts
  • Portland

Posted 27 May 2009 - 10:40 PM

I thought that too but the math wouldnt add up, I dont think. Its really that minute. I read the receipt I got and it said its for all EXCEPT the M/T Turbo.

Would a grade 8 bolt work?


I wouldn't use a grade 8 bolt - it's got no spring to it and wouldn't withstand the push and pull of the splines sliding. The roll pin has a certain amount of flex in it. It would probably work for a while but I would take the axle back if it wasn't fitting properly. That's either the wrong axle or it was machined improperly. Either is more than just possible.

GD

#8 Numbchux

Numbchux

    EJ conversion addict

  • Members
  • 5,996 posts
  • Duluth, MN

Posted 27 May 2009 - 10:41 PM

I've put a long bolt in there, heck, I've run without the pin for months on the fronts (don't do it in the back though.....there is enough play for them to fall off......go ahead, ask me how I know).

#9 opus

opus

    Subaru Nut

  • Members
  • 735 posts
  • Trout Creek

Posted 27 May 2009 - 10:42 PM

Then I'll put a rubber bolt in. :)

I contacted them. Lovely, now I get to take it apart again. Thanks for bouncing thoughts.

#10 Frank B

Frank B

    Subaru Master

  • Members
  • 2,226 posts
  • VA

Posted 28 May 2009 - 12:31 PM

Does the axle fit snugly on the axle stub on the tranny? If it is loose you ave the wrong axle. the roll pin is there only to keep the axle from coming off on the the tranny axle stub, not to take the torque turning the wheels. The splines do that. You only need to rotate the axle one half rotation(180 degrees as mentioned earlier) and it will line up. If you still have the ball joint out of the spindle, just pull out on the spindle to get the axle off of the stub and rotate it. One hole in the axle has a bevel or chamfer or counter sunk hole. The other is flush with the axle. The one with the bevel is where you insert the pin, and drive it in. Don't put a smaller bolt in there, that's just lazy and dumb.
I know this is all you have to do, because just like some of the other members that have posted, I've done this enough times that I can do it mith my eyes closed.

#11 opus

opus

    Subaru Nut

  • Members
  • 735 posts
  • Trout Creek

Posted 28 May 2009 - 12:36 PM

I've done this a few times, never had an issue. I went and checked this morning. Of course it is all put back together already. I pulled the wheel, pulled the lower control arm bolt, torsion bar bolt and stabilizer bolts. Pull the stub off, rotated it 180 degrees....do I have to complete this.............

[sigh]

Every other time I have done these, first try they worked. Never would have thought there was only one way to put them on.

#12 Twitch de la Brat

Twitch de la Brat

    Village Psycho

  • Members
  • 1,632 posts
  • The Athol of Idaho

Posted 28 May 2009 - 02:24 PM

So did it fix the problem? :grin:
And I was going to say, you could try tapping a nail into it that is the right
size and bending the end over so it doesn't fall out.
I think it would flex enough to not shear too quickly.
Just an idea...

Twitch

#13 opus

opus

    Subaru Nut

  • Members
  • 735 posts
  • Trout Creek

Posted 28 May 2009 - 02:28 PM

Oh yeah, it fixed THAT problem.....now onto the next problem.

#14 edrach

edrach

    RIP 6/28/14

  • Members
  • 12,326 posts
  • Bothell, WA

Posted 28 May 2009 - 02:32 PM

I've done this a few times, never had an issue. I went and checked this morning. Of course it is all put back together already. I pulled the wheel, pulled the lower control arm bolt, torsion bar bolt and stabilizer bolts. Pull the stub off, rotated it 180 degrees....do I have to complete this.............

[sigh]

Every other time I have done these, first try they worked. Never would have thought there was only one way to put them on.

Check the bevel on the hole; only one direction has the bevel. Match it up with the bevel on the stub axle and you'll be okay. Lesson learned. Trust me, we've all done it.:)

#15 opus

opus

    Subaru Nut

  • Members
  • 735 posts
  • Trout Creek

Posted 28 May 2009 - 02:41 PM

Well....its too far away for my reading glasses....and too close for my normal glasses..... :)

#16 bheinen74

bheinen74

    Banned

  • Banned
  • Pip
  • 0 posts
  • central Iowa

Posted 28 May 2009 - 02:43 PM

Well....its too far away for my reading glasses....and too close for my normal glasses..... :)


doh.

#17 edrach

edrach

    RIP 6/28/14

  • Members
  • 12,326 posts
  • Bothell, WA

Posted 28 May 2009 - 10:28 PM

Well....its too far away for my reading glasses....and too close for my normal glasses..... :)

I'm with you there. I do it by feel most of the time. Also the bevelled hole is the one you want to insert the roll pin into when you hammer it home.

#18 Twitch de la Brat

Twitch de la Brat

    Village Psycho

  • Members
  • 1,632 posts
  • The Athol of Idaho

Posted 28 May 2009 - 10:38 PM

Hey guys, what did y'all use to drive out the roll pin?
I'm working on getting my axles out of my 90 lego.

Twitch

#19 GeneralDisorder

GeneralDisorder

    Elite Master of the Subaru

  • Members
  • 20,281 posts
  • Portland

Posted 28 May 2009 - 10:39 PM

I'm with you there. I do it by feel most of the time. Also the bevelled hole is the one you want to insert the roll pin into when you hammer it home.


FWIW, my experience has been that the roll pin will go in from either side. Often there is an end to a used roll pin that is more tapered than the other - but only sometimes and only on used pins. The beveled hole is easier to get the pin started in though.

GD

#20 GeneralDisorder

GeneralDisorder

    Elite Master of the Subaru

  • Members
  • 20,281 posts
  • Portland

Posted 28 May 2009 - 10:41 PM

Hey guys, what did y'all use to drive out the roll pin?
I'm working on getting my axles out of my 90 lego.

Twitch


3/16" pin punch. It's actually a 5mm roll pin, but a 3/16" is close enough. Snap-On and Mac, etc sell true 5mm roll pin punches.

DO NOT try to use a drill bit - they will shatter.

GD

#21 edrach

edrach

    RIP 6/28/14

  • Members
  • 12,326 posts
  • Bothell, WA

Posted 29 May 2009 - 01:34 AM

FWIW, my experience has been that the roll pin will go in from either side. Often there is an end to a used roll pin that is more tapered than the other - but only sometimes and only on used pins. The beveled hole is easier to get the pin started in though.

GD

True enough, but it's truly easier to drive the pin in from the bevelled hole and out from the other side.

#22 edrach

edrach

    RIP 6/28/14

  • Members
  • 12,326 posts
  • Bothell, WA

Posted 29 May 2009 - 01:40 AM

From the USRM:
Craftsman # 42885 WF (the letters are not important but the numbers are correct) is the tool I use to knock out the roll pin. The right diameter and just long enough to knock out the pin without getting stuck in the hole. Plus when it wears out I get another for free from Sears.

Edited by edrach, 29 May 2009 - 01:42 AM.


#23 Twitch de la Brat

Twitch de la Brat

    Village Psycho

  • Members
  • 1,632 posts
  • The Athol of Idaho

Posted 29 May 2009 - 09:45 AM

Thanls Ed, and I didn't mean to start a spat over all this...
Thank you GD as well.
The craftsman 42885, got it.
Back to the original topic...

Twitch ;)

#24 Turbone

Turbone

    The Original Rob

  • Moderator
  • 12,135 posts
  • WA

Posted 29 May 2009 - 10:48 AM

Thanls Ed, and I didn't mean to start a spat over all this...
Thank you GD as well.
The craftsman 42885, got it.
Back to the original topic...

Twitch ;)


We had a bigger spat a few months ago, about the same thing.
Different members tho :rolleyes:
Sooo, it pays to search ;)

#25 Truckerman666

Truckerman666

    USMB Regular

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 51 posts
  • Tremonton, Ut

Posted 29 May 2009 - 10:57 PM

DO not use a grade 8 bolt. They re very hard metal with little shear strength. They are designed to resist stretching force for a clamping type application, something where you to join two parts with enough force that they will never come apart. This is why they are sometimes called aircraft bolts. If you want to use a bolt in this application, use a grade 5, they are softer metal and designed to resist shear, or side to side force. Whatever you do, do not use a hardware store special bolt, you really are better off to just use a roll pin.
Matco tools sells a neat little designed for this purpose and it is only about $17.00. I bought one and it makes the job a lot easier.




0 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users