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Camshaft pulley holding tool


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15 replies to this topic

#1 Mikevan10

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Posted 28 May 2009 - 02:58 PM

Long time no post.

Hey, I know this has been beaten to death in many previous posts, but the info I need is also buried within those many timing belt posts. So PLEASE overlook my laziness.

I will be replacing timing belts on a '92 Legacy and a '97 Legacy in the near future. What are the best ways to hold the cam sprockets when you loosen and retorque the sprocket to cam shaft bolts?

Thanks!!

#2 tcspeer

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Posted 28 May 2009 - 03:56 PM

Long time no post.

Hey, I know this has been beaten to death in many previous posts, but the info I need is also buried within those many timing belt posts. So PLEASE overlook my laziness.

I will be replacing timing belts on a '92 Legacy and a '97 Legacy in the near future. What are the best ways to hold the cam sprockets when you loosen and retorque the sprocket to cam shaft bolts?

Thanks!!


Before I bought the special Subaru tool made for this I used the big chain wrench that Harbor Freight sells. Just take your old belt and cut it so that it will just go around the cam spocket, Then duct tape it together so it will stay there until you get your chain wrench on it. Dont buy the chain vice grips get the big chain wrench.

#3 john in KY

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Posted 28 May 2009 - 05:03 PM

Just something I made in about 15". Section of exhaust tubing. Smashed one end with a hammer. Two holes for bolts to catch inside the sprocket and one 1" hole for the socket. Crude but works.

#4 john in KY

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Posted 28 May 2009 - 05:14 PM

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#5 OB99W

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Posted 28 May 2009 - 05:35 PM

I will be replacing timing belts on a '92 Legacy and a '97 Legacy in the near future. What are the best ways to hold the cam sprockets when you loosen and retorque the sprocket to cam shaft bolts?

As well as the '92, is it correct that your '97 has a 2.2L engine? Besides replacing the timing belt and possibly idlers/tensioner, what else did you have in mind to do?

#6 shortskoolbus

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Posted 28 May 2009 - 05:39 PM

easy. break the bolts before removing the crank pulley.

however you held the crank pulley will hold the cam sprockets also so long as the timing belt is still on.

#7 EVOthis

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Posted 28 May 2009 - 05:59 PM

What I used to do was take like a pry bar and just jam it in between the cam sprocket spokes..that worked well for me...Ive also used a strap wrench which has worked well also....However If your going to try the pry bar method just be kind of careful not to nick or break the cam sprocket...

#8 starsea

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Posted 28 May 2009 - 06:53 PM

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#9 1997reduxe

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Posted 28 May 2009 - 07:26 PM

I think I used the crows foot wrench idea that's been written here before.
search for that. I think I basically put the open end of a big long wrench in between the teeth of the sprocket.
But to tighten the crank pulley for me was the big challenge. I didn't get the key right the first time and basically tightened the key into part of the back of the sprocket--watch for that. It loosened up and I think I now have a partially shot steering pump.
I don't think they sell the chain wrench at Harbor Freight anymore. I didn't see them on their site either, or Sears, and had to go to a local tool specialty shop here in Houston to get it. 40 bucks.

#10 Mikevan10

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Posted 29 May 2009 - 07:01 AM

Thanks for the comments guys!

Both cars are 2.2 l

I do have the special tool to hold the crankshaft on the '97.

I am not as concerned with getting the cam pulley bolts loose as I am tightening them back to the correct value.

As far as what I intend to do, I will replace the timing belt(s), the O-ring in the right rear camshaft support, the camshaft front seals and the crank front seal. I believe I remember reading something here about an O-ring or two related to the oil pump? If there is something cheap I can do there while I am at it I will do that too. At this point, I am leaning towards replacing the water pump on the '97. The one in there probably has over 100,000 miles on it. But I am probably just going to inpect the idlers/tensioner. If I do not detect and roughness or play I do not plan to replace them.

On the '92 I do not plan to replace the water pump. If it "goes" at least it is not an interference engine. And this car pretty much stays in town. The '97 is my wife's car and it wanders considerable distances from home on a regular basis.

Thanks again for the comments.

Mike V.

#11 Mikevan10

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Posted 29 May 2009 - 07:13 AM

Oh yeah, I guess I should mention that all of the new parts mentioned above will be Subaru OEM.

#12 OB99W

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Posted 29 May 2009 - 07:40 AM

[...]I believe I remember reading something here about an O-ring or two related to the oil pump? [...] But I am probably just going to inpect the idlers/tensioner. If I do not detect and roughness or play I do not plan to replace them.[...]

Be sure to check that the back plate screws of the oil pump(s) are tight. Also, besides checking roughness/play, verify that the idlers can't be spun freely -- if they can, that would indicate a lack of grease in the bearings.

#13 Olnick

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Posted 29 May 2009 - 11:42 AM

I will replace . . . the O-ring in the right rear camshaft support . . . Mike V.


While you're that far into it, might as well replace the matching O-ring in the right front camshaft support too.

#14 Mikevan10

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Posted 09 June 2009 - 11:23 AM

Olnick said, "While you're that far into it, might as well replace the matching O-ring in the right front camshaft support too."

I did not know there was one there. And the parts lists I have access to are not clear in that regard. Hopefully the parts man at the Subaru dealer (probably Liberty over in Jersey) will be up on this stuff.

OK. Thanks again for the comments everyone. I guess I'll just have at the job. I did it before on the '97 and I've done it on a '92 I used to have and never ran into any problems so I should be able to do it again.

Mike V.

#15 Olnick

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Posted 09 June 2009 - 12:17 PM

I did not know there was one there.


Ooops, sorry--my mind must have been out of gear! I meant LEFT (driver's side) camshaft support, directly behind the cam pulley. It is the same o-ring as used in the right rear cam.

Here's some discussion of it from back when I did mine:

http://www.ultimates...ighlight=o-ring

Good luck.

#16 Allenharveydale

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Posted 29 June 2011 - 11:07 PM

Dude, I got it! I was also wondering how to snag an answer to holding the camshaft. But then I remembered how I got my camshaft bolts off!
While you have the covers off put a visegrip or large crescent wrench on the hex shaped part of the camshft! Lock it up and rock! 60 ft/pounds for my 2.5 DOHC as I recall!:banana:




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