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2" Lift kits for EA82?


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35 replies to this topic

#1 TheLoyale

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Posted 31 May 2009 - 09:56 PM

Well, I'm finaly really looking into a 2" lift! But what brands are their? I know SJR but he doesn't offer the longer steering shaft (Arm?) I looked at ByB but they don't seem to make 2" kits. I'm looking for a 2" kit that comes with everything, Any ideas please?

Also, when people say the steering shaft needs to be extended they are taking about the arms right? Is it hard to change them? on a scale of 1 to 10 (Oil pump/T belts/Cam seals being a 3 on that scale) Guess it can't be all that hard, almost everyones got a 2" or higher lift.

Do I need to worrie about the alignment?

-Tom

#2 ()__1337_CRAYOLA__()>

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Posted 31 May 2009 - 11:02 PM

the shaft that connects the steering wheel to the box in between the u-joints has to be extended it isn't hard lift the rig cut the shaft in half find appropriate tubing and weld it together (tac it together in car weld on bench)

#3 one eye

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Posted 01 June 2009 - 12:32 AM

you do not have to do anything with the steering shaft, its all in the struts, go into the offroad section and there are a ton of threads about it.

http://www.ultimates...ead.php?t=94629

Jeff

#4 TheLoyale

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Posted 01 June 2009 - 01:23 AM

1337, oh its really the steering shaft! But why? From the kits I've seen, its just an alloy or steel spacer (Per strut) that bolts in so the top of the strut is mounted lower (In result rising the car up) Its not like I'm moving the steering box down.

Jeff, yea was thinking the steering shaft running from the SW to the box wouldn't need to be messed with since the steering box is staying where it is. Thanks for the link, I'll read up on it!

So ok, why do I need to extend anything if I go with Scott's 2" kit? its just some "Blocks" per say for each strut correct?

I will read more about all this in that link and any other thread I can find in "Offroad", I'm just a little confused.

-Tom

#5 The Beast I Drive

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Posted 01 June 2009 - 01:40 AM

To clear the confusion:

With a 2" strut only lift, you only put the 2" camber corrected blocks on the struts. There are no blocks to install on the crossmembers or subframes, so all the steering components will stay in place, no extensions needed for anything at all. It can be installed in less than a couple of hours if your bolts and suspension feel like cooperating :rolleyes:

You will need an alignment because there will be a bit of toe-in and you might still have a little bit of the possitve camber, but it shouldnt be bad. Lots of guys running the 2" lift have done so for quite a while with no problems :banana:

-Bill

#6 TheLoyale

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Posted 01 June 2009 - 02:26 AM

To clear the confusion:

With a 2" strut only lift, you only put the 2" camber corrected blocks on the struts. There are no blocks to install on the crossmembers or subframes, so all the steering components will stay in place, no extensions needed for anything at all. It can be installed in less than a couple of hours if your bolts and suspension feel like cooperating :rolleyes:

-Bill


Hey Bill, Yea I know its a strut only lift (Adding a type of spacer(s) between body and strut top) so thats what I've been figureing in my head (Nothing needs to be extended) But how come on SJRs site under the 2" kit, he says "Extended steering shaft is needed (Not sold by SJRLIFT)" Thats whats confuseing me Lol.. I did read that whole thread that Jeff posted (Good thread)

Ok, yes or No. The 2" SJR kit will not need anything extended? Just trying to make heads or tails out of it :)

-Tom

#7 bratman18

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Posted 01 June 2009 - 04:03 AM

Hey Bill, Yea I know its a strut only lift (Adding a type of spacer(s) between body and strut top) so thats what I've been figureing in my head (Nothing needs to be extended) But how come on SJRs site under the 2" kit, he says "Extended steering shaft is needed (Not sold by SJRLIFT)" Thats whats confuseing me Lol.. I did read that whole thread that Jeff posted (Good thread)

Ok, yes or No. The 2" SJR kit will not need anything extended? Just trying to make heads or tails out of it :)

-Tom


no nothing will need to be extended.

#8 Scott in Bellingham

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Posted 01 June 2009 - 07:00 AM

with my 2" kit I also provide a engine crossmember block to keep the camber correct and so the axles wont rub the crossmember

#9 TheLoyale

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Posted 01 June 2009 - 07:36 PM

with my 2" kit I also provide a engine crossmember block to keep the camber correct and so the axles wont rub the crossmember


Oh ok, that sounds good! I'll prolly place an order soon (Have to get some paint for the fenders first)

But you will be hearing from me Scott :)

-Tom

#10 Phizinza

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Posted 01 June 2009 - 07:52 PM

Hold the wheel and drive, unless it comes off!

Strangely enough this has happened to be.. Well I wasn't driving per say, the car was just rolling and it had no seat, so I was holding myself in it with the steering wheel. But stupid me forgot to bolt the wheel back on, I hit the brake pedal pretty damn hard!


About this 2" strut lift only, I cannot see how people can do this. I mean, I had a look and in my 83 sedan with anything over 30mm (just over an inch) strut lift the axle angle was so extreme for a Subaru and in my experience if I were to drive offroad like that I'm sure I would destroy both shafts very quickly. Maybe the EA82's have less down travel from factory and this is how people get away with this?

#11 TheLoyale

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Posted 01 June 2009 - 08:30 PM

Strangely enough this has happened to be.. Well I wasn't driving per say, the car was just rolling and it had no seat, so I was holding myself in it with the steering wheel. But stupid me forgot to bolt the wheel back on, I hit the brake pedal pretty damn hard!


About this 2" strut lift only, I cannot see how people can do this. I mean, I had a look and in my 83 sedan with anything over 30mm (just over an inch) strut lift the axle angle was so extreme for a Subaru and in my experience if I were to drive offroad like that I'm sure I would destroy both shafts very quickly. Maybe the EA82's have less down travel from factory and this is how people get away with this?




Haha, so it wasn't fun? :lol:

I think the EA82s have less down travel (Bound) then the EA81s. But dunno, this is the only Subaru I've been up and close too.

Boy, now I'm excited about getting the lift!

Thanks guys!

#12 The Beast I Drive

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Posted 01 June 2009 - 09:23 PM

Strangely enough this has happened to be.. Well I wasn't driving per say, the car was just rolling and it had no seat, so I was holding myself in it with the steering wheel. But stupid me forgot to bolt the wheel back on, I hit the brake pedal pretty damn hard!


About this 2" strut lift only, I cannot see how people can do this. I mean, I had a look and in my 83 sedan with anything over 30mm (just over an inch) strut lift the axle angle was so extreme for a Subaru and in my experience if I were to drive offroad like that I'm sure I would destroy both shafts very quickly. Maybe the EA82's have less down travel from factory and this is how people get away with this?


On the EA82's, the CV angle is almost flat in stock configuration, you can go to 2" easily and still keep the cv's alive. In the EA81 cars however, I have had experience with it QUICKLY destroying front axles... But EA81's seem to have more extreme angles in stock configuration anyway...
-Bill

#13 TheLoyale

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Posted 02 June 2009 - 01:22 PM

On the EA82's, the CV angle is almost flat in stock configuration, you can go to 2" easily and still keep the cv's alive. In the EA81 cars however, I have had experience with it QUICKLY destroying front axles... But EA81's seem to have more extreme angles in stock configuration anyway...
-Bill


+1 yea the stock axle/CV angle is pretty much flat on the EA82s, I didn't know the EA81s had a more extreme angle stock.

Thanks Bill :cool:

-Tom

Edited by TheLoyale, 02 June 2009 - 01:39 PM.


#14 Phizinza

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Posted 02 June 2009 - 06:44 PM

That's interesting. Because here in Australia ever EA82 I have seen with stock suspension has pretty much the same angle on the CV's as the EA81's I have seen. So the US go crappier suspension :confused:

#15 The Beast I Drive

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Posted 02 June 2009 - 07:03 PM

Well I think it varies a bit on a car by car basis, cuz Ive seen mild to bad angles on all different kinds of cars, like if you have the front struts cranked all the way up then of course you will have a greater angle on the CVs, where 2wds will have relatively flat CV angles. Honestly though, the main limiting factor in the EA81 axles is the weak DOJ cups with short travel coupled with short half shafts. EA82's are more forgiving because they have more room to stretch.
-Bill

#16 TheLoyale

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Posted 02 June 2009 - 07:52 PM

Well I think it varies a bit on a car by car basis, cuz Ive seen mild to bad angles on all different kinds of cars, like if you have the front struts cranked all the way up then of course you will have a greater angle on the CVs, where 2wds will have relatively flat CV angles. Honestly though, the main limiting factor in the EA81 axles is the weak DOJ cups with short travel coupled with short half shafts. EA82's are more forgiving because they have more room to stretch.
-Bill


Something I've been meaning to ask for a while. What does DOJ stand for? Blank, Blank Joint?

I'll do a search on the net, maybe I'll find my answer.

-Tom

Edit: Well the only thing I can seem to find for DOJ is "Department Of Justice" And if I type DOJ cups, thats just it. everything says DOJ axles Lol..

DOJ, hmmm? Direct "blank" Joint?

Edited by TheLoyale, 02 June 2009 - 07:56 PM.


#17 baccaruda

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Posted 02 June 2009 - 08:00 PM

double offset joint or something.
The rear axles' ends are both DOJs and can be completely disassembled; the front axles' inner ends are DOJs and the fronts' outer ends are CVJs - Constant Velocity Joints - and are pressed together. You can take them apart with a hammer and cold chisel but you can't put them back together.
Do you have How To Keep Your Subaru Alive? It's got some such details..
http://www.worldwidecm.com/HTKYSA.pdf

#18 TheLoyale

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Posted 02 June 2009 - 08:15 PM

double offset joint or something.
The rear axles' ends are both DOJs and can be completely disassembled; the front axles' inner ends are DOJs and the fronts' outer ends are CVJs - Constant Velocity Joints - and are pressed together. You can take them apart with a hammer and cold chisel but you can't put them back together.
Do you have How To Keep Your Subaru Alive? It's got some such details..
http://www.worldwidecm.com/HTKYSA.pdf


Oh I see, yea I know you can't put CVs back together Lol. Thanks for filling me in :)

Yes, I do have HTKYSA on PDF (Thanks Connie). Its good to have, interesting to read :headbang:


-Tom

#19 TheLoyale

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Posted 19 June 2009 - 10:12 PM

YAY got my 2" SJR kit today! :banana: boy I can't wait to install it on 4th of july weekend
(Wish it was a 3day weekend though, incase something gos wrong) Anyhoo I hope the fornt axles won't hit the frame, other wise I have to use the crossmember blocks that came with the kit (And that means I need a longer steering shaft, which means I won't be able to get it done in one weekend and would need to find a longer steering shaft..

Enough rambling on and on, heres a picture of my kit! One question though (Figure I won't bother Scott with this one :) ) Am I short some bolts or what? Cause ok, these 6 smaller bolts with washers and nuts hold the lowering plate(s) to the strut tower, Correct? but then what holds the stut(s) to the lowering plate? The stock bolts? Also what are these 4 long half threaded bolts with the locknuts for?

Posted Image

Thats the only thing throwing me off. :)

-Tom

PS: do you guys think I should paint these so they don't rust?


#20 Loyale 2.7 Turbo

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Posted 19 June 2009 - 11:24 PM

Tom: I`m Glad to Know that you Already have the 2" Lift Kit from SJR... That`s Great!

I Was About to Purchase one of those from SJR around three Years Ago, I Got the Money Then... but "Paypal" didn`t include my Li`l Country (Honduras) in their List back then... So I was absolutely Unable to Send the Money... :-\ ...

I Just want to Suggest you to put the Crossmember`s Blocks, in Order to Keep the Axles Angle as Close as Stock is, Because the Greater angle will make your Subie to Eat very very Fast the Axles... unless you Plan to Drive it Off-Road only...

Post Pictures of the Install / Finish Looks Please!

Kind Regards.

#21 Rollie715

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Posted 20 June 2009 - 01:03 AM

I'm not an expert, but could those 4 long bolts be to bolt the crossmember back in after the spacer is added, because the stock long bolts would be too short to reuse?

I'm also thinking you would reuse the stock strutmount bolts, 3 on each side to bolt the strut to the lift blocks. The stock bolts are pressed in and somewhat difficult to remove from the stock strut flanges, but I have seen some people do it when they wanted to go to a larger size bolt.

Edited by Rollie715, 20 June 2009 - 01:08 AM.


#22 Scott in Bellingham

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Posted 20 June 2009 - 07:08 AM

YAY got my 2" SJR kit today! :banana: boy I can't wait to install it on 4th of july weekend
(Wish it was a 3day weekend though, incase something gos wrong) Anyhoo I hope the fornt axles won't hit the frame, other wise I have to use the crossmember blocks that came with the kit (And that means I need a longer steering shaft, which means I won't be able to get it done in one weekend and would need to find a longer steering shaft..

Enough rambling on and on, heres a picture of my kit! One question though (Figure I won't bother Scott with this one :) ) Am I short some bolts or what? Cause ok, these 6 smaller bolts with washers and nuts hold the lowering plate(s) to the strut tower, Correct? but then what holds the stut(s) to the lowering plate? The stock bolts? Also what are these 4 long half threaded bolts with the locknuts for?

Posted Image

Thats the only thing throwing me off. :)

-Tom

PS: do you guys think I should paint these so they don't rust?



Rollies correct on the long bolts they are for the engine crossmember, I have heard that the stock outback steering shaft will work on a 2" lift but not sure, the black bars are fpr the enginge crossmember and the for bolts with the silver couplers are for the mustache bar drops it down 1"

#23 TheLoyale

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Posted 20 June 2009 - 06:02 PM

OH!! Ok I see now, thanks guys for clearing that up :)

Scott, I just didn't want to see you anoth email (Since I sent you 3 in one day lol)

Stock OB shaft huh, ok I'll check into that for info :)

JesZek, thank you! Sorry to hear PayPal didn't include your country, Have they added Honduars to their list yet?

Also as far eating CVs/axles up, I think I should be ok with 2" more stress on them, cause right now my axles are almost flush/Straigt so a little angel shouldn't hurt them (At least for now)

I'll make sure I take some pictures.

btw, on the rear struts. what holds the 2 bolts (per) is there a nut that the bolts tighten on to or if it a threaded hole?

-Tom

#24 Loyale 2.7 Turbo

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Posted 20 June 2009 - 11:28 PM

... Sorry to hear PayPal didn't include your country, Have they added Honduars to their list yet? ...


Yes, they Did it Last Year...

Now I Can`t Buy that Lift Kit `cos I Don`t Have Enough Money ... :-\ ... Maybe Somehow, Someday...

Post Pics, Please!
Kind Regards.

#25 Gloyale

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Posted 21 June 2009 - 12:26 AM

OH!! Ok I see now, thanks guys for clearing that up :)

Stock OB shaft huh, ok I'll check into that for info :)


outback shaft may be too long. We used an outback shaft for a 3 inch lift on a 90 Legacy, so it would be way long for the 1 inch lift on the EA82.

I would try one from a stock, non-outback Legacy. 90-99. it is about7/8ths inch longer than the EA82, so it should be about perfect for a 1 inch spacer




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