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Weber & Brakes Problems - EathQuake Damage!


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43 replies to this topic

#1 Loyale 2.7 Turbo

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Posted 01 June 2009 - 01:26 AM

Hi! ... :) ... I Have been Off-Line for a While, Since my PC`s got Damaged.



Last Week I Went in one of my Usual Job`s Trip...


Posted Image



...and Last Week we Got a 7.3 Degrees EarthQuake! ... :eek: ...


(EarthQuakes are very Rare in Honduras, my Country is the Only One in Central America without Vulcanos... To know More about that EarthQuake, click Here: http://en.wikipedia....uras_earthquake)




Many Many Roads got Severly Damaged; some Broken Parts, Missing Bridges, Flooded zones, etc... Believe me: is Horrible to Drive while the Road Shakes! ... :eek: ... at Very Late Night, while Feeling Sleepy! ... I Usually Drive at Very Late Night, That`s Why I Had the H.I.D. Lights.


See How some Roads Ended:
(This is a Picture I Took Some Days After, the Yellow Painted Line was the Center -Middle- of the Road, Also some Houses Went Rollin` Downhill)


Posted Image



So, Right After the EarthQuake Shaked it All, (Even my Butts, Seated on my Subie) I Decided to Still continue to Drive...


I Was a Li`l Bit Scared, `cos I Was in an Old Road, Within the Woods at Around 2:30 AM of a Tropical Rainy / Stormy Night when the EarthQuake Happened... then I Felt Scary Like I Was in the Middle of Nowhere, So I Choose to Drive -But Slowly- `cos I Was Near -Around 20 Miles- of my Destination Point.

Some few Miles After, I Had to Cross thru a Pond that had a Hidden -Under Muddy Waters- Break / Stones at Some Point ... Both were New Obstacles (Pond & Pavement Break / stones) Due to the EarthQuake...

Then my Subie Fell one Side and had a solid Impact Sound under the Driver`s Front Wheel ... :banghead: ... I Know that Maybe was a Stupid Idea to Continue Driving, but my Subie Did it!

Then, Almost Reachin` the Town, My Subie Totally Lost the Brakes! :eek:

I Was Able to Drive like That, very Slowly and Parked it Outside Home, with Tires Turned to the Sidewalk.

So, the Very Next Day I Checked Everything... I Don`t Know How it Happened, but the e-Brake Parts at the Driver`s Wheel got Damaged, the Small Stick-Like Part that is Pulled by the Cable was Bent; Also All the Brake Fluid was Coming from the Rear of the Caliper`s Piston, so the e-Brake`s Bolt-Like Pin got a Broken O-Ring.

I Just Removed the Parts, Straighten the Bent Stick and used a New O-Ring to Seal the Leak: It Works as Long as I Don`t attach the e-Brake Cable there Again... :-\ ...if Someone Pull the e-Brake Handle, Everything Works Fine but the O-Ring will Break and Leak Again for sure! ... :banghead:

I am Really Tired of that e-Brake System... it Always have Been considered by me as the Worst Part of My Subie, the only one that I Really Dislike; I Have Fixed it Many Times all these years with the Original Subaru e-Brake Kit (You Know: Changing the Triangle Shaped Pushing Parts, O-Rings, Boots, etc...) and it will only Last Working Good for Few Months...

Now I am Thinking that Maybe is Good Idea to Leave my Subie Without e-Brake at All.

So, The Question is, Since I Believe that the Whole Wheel`s Brake Assembly is Damaged and I Want to Change it / Swap there a Better one:

Which other Subie Wheel`s Brake Assembly will Fit my Loyale`s one?

in Order to Just Take Out the Original Brake Assembly from the Wheel and Swap there another Brake Assembly that just Fit There without Much Mod and Get Rid of the e-Brake Nightmare.

Any Advice is Very Welcome! :)

Thank you for Reading Such a Long Post...

Kind Regards.
JesZeK

Edited by Loyale 2.7 Turbo, 10 June 2009 - 02:26 AM.
Read from Post Nº 12 to Understand


#2 The Beast I Drive

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Posted 01 June 2009 - 01:35 AM

First off, glad to hear you werent harmed in that quake, that would scare the ************ out of me!

As for your e-brake, I dont know why you have such bad problems with your setup, Ive actaully never heard of any problems like that prior to being damaged...

I dont know of any Subaru brake assemblies that will directly bolt on to the Loyal knuckles, the only thing I can think of would be to do a 5 lug swap using early Impreza parts (Im guessing XT6's are pretty rare down there) unless you have the xt6 bits, then do the rear e-brake setup from a Legacy.

I would make sure you find some way to incorporate an emergency brake system of some kind, after all, if it isnt there then thats when you will need it the most.

Im sure others will shed some more light on this, and have more info/ideas
-Bill

#3 Loyale 2.7 Turbo

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Posted 01 June 2009 - 01:42 AM

...Im guessing XT6's are pretty rare down there...


Yes, There are Very Few XT6 here... I Had Access to a Wrecked XT6 long Time Ago, but their Brakes were in Very Bad Condition that the Swap wasn`t a Good Idea.

#4 Loyale 2.7 Turbo

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Posted 01 June 2009 - 01:57 AM

I Forgot to Mention that in a Couple of Days I Need to do a Trip in my Subie to Guatemala! ... :eek: ... So I Hope that the Provisional Brake Fixing I Did Won`t Fail!

I Disconnected the e-Brake Cables and Tied the Sticks with Metal Wire in Order to Prevent `em to Move.

Wish me Luck!

#5 The Dude Abides

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Posted 01 June 2009 - 02:17 AM

Just wanted to say glad to see you are ok. I never even heard about a quake in the news. Anything over 7.0 is big time so glad you were ok. Can you take the brakes off your other subaru until you can figure out where to get parts.

Ben

#6 Numbchux

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Posted 01 June 2009 - 04:04 AM

well.....off the top of my head...

XT6 and EA82 calipers are interchangeable.

baccaruda found an EJ-series (from an early legacy, IIRC) caliper bracket that allowed him to use XT6 calipers with his EJ knuckles. thus keeping the front ebrake even with the EJ axles and such.

SO, I would assume that the reverse could be done. mount an EJ-series caliper to an EA bracket.....




and yea, I've had trouble with those. the mechanism seizes up. had one car get so bad, that if I set the ebrake, I had to turn the wheel, reach behind it, and manually release the brake......not fun.

#7 Bucky92

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Posted 01 June 2009 - 05:57 AM

I was thinking about you Jeszek when I heard about the quake...and was alittle worried when I didnt see you here for a couple days.

Cant help with the brakes but wanted to say that I am happy you and everyone is OK.

#8 mdjdc

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Posted 01 June 2009 - 08:49 AM

Glad to hear that you are okay. I have had several ea82 series cars and been wheelin with them and no e-brake troubles. I did buy one witha frozen ebrake, but that was easily replaced.

My suggestion would be to put another set of calipers on there. If you want some, just let me know and I can pull a set and send it to you. PM me if you think you might want to go that way.

Mike

#9 baccaruda

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Posted 01 June 2009 - 12:50 PM

I never heard anything in the news either... glad you're OK though.

I got front calipers from an XT6 and the caliper mounting brackets from what I believe was a 2.5RS but I didn't pull them myself and it was a while ago. The calipers required a tiny bit of grinding but fit properly. This allowed me to retain the front E-brake with a 5-lug conversion.
What that REALLY means it that it allowed me to put off moving the E-brake to the rear :lol:

so XT6 font caliper brackets should accept 2.5RS front calipers and might require a little grinding.

I don't know if any other EJ calipers will do the same.. I assumed that someone had found a way to make it work and posted about it, and I was right :P but it's been like 3 years since I searched for it.


well.....off the top of my head...

XT6 and EA82 calipers are interchangeable.

baccaruda found an EJ-series (from an early legacy, IIRC) caliper bracket that allowed him to use XT6 calipers with his EJ knuckles. thus keeping the front ebrake even with the EJ axles and such.

SO, I would assume that the reverse could be done. mount an EJ-series caliper to an EA bracket.....




and yea, I've had trouble with those. the mechanism seizes up. had one car get so bad, that if I set the ebrake, I had to turn the wheel, reach behind it, and manually release the brake......not fun.



#10 Subaru_dude

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Posted 02 June 2009 - 07:46 PM

Having a fwd Subie with front ebrake is pretty useless on any steep gravel or dirt hill.

Glad to hear you're ok. That's quite a quake... That Subie sure does take alot down there. Testimate to how well built these cars are.

#11 Loyale 2.7 Turbo

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Posted 08 June 2009 - 02:33 AM

First of All: Thank you to Everyone for your Nice Wishes and Advice, You`re So Kind! :)

Having a fwd Subie with front ebrake is pretty useless on any steep gravel or dirt hill. ...


Let me Add this: it is Really Pretty Useless in ANY Place.

The EarthQuake Striked Back Again! ... :-\ ... Yes, just Moments ago...

(Check here: http://www.abc.net.a.../08/2592422.htm )

...but I Wasn`t Driving, Just sitting on my Apartment`s Front Yard, seeing my Subie and Thinking...

I Don`t know yet how hard it was this Time but those things are Always pretty Scary...

Well ... Not Only I Still Have the e-Brakes Problem; but my Subie has "A LOT" of more new Problems...

Edited by Loyale 2.7 Turbo, 08 June 2009 - 03:34 AM.


#12 Loyale 2.7 Turbo

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Posted 08 June 2009 - 03:01 AM

I was Planning to do a Travel to Guatemala, but my Subie Started to Show a "Drowning" Carb Behaviour while Driving...

I Double Checked Everything and Seems like one of the Timin` Belts did Jumped one or two Teeth ... :eek: ... Because it is Expelling Gasoline Thru the Carb while Acceleratin` and it Barely Reaches 4K RPM`s ...

First I Thought it was a Dirty Carb, so I Removed the Weber and Cleaned it very deeply ... it Wasn`t that.

Then, I Borrowed a Timing Light Gun from a Friend and While Trying to Check the Timing, it seems like it is Way Off ... :-\ ... Because even Moving the Disty I Can Not Reach to see the Marks! :eek:

I Believe that my Subie`s Timing Belts are Old enough... So I Already Purchased the New ones last Week, Waiting to have spare Time to do the Job.

So I Drove my Subie -Slowly- with that Problem and then couple of Days after that, it got another Problem: the Wheels` Ball Bearings Started to Sound Rough! ... :banghead: ... and Suddenly that noise got very Loud! :( I Don`t Know which ones exactly yet but the Noise seems to be Comin` from the Front`s Passenger side ones...

I Drove it pretty Slowly, because I Need it; but now it Also Started to Leak some Coolant from Around the Water Pump, so I Suspect about that 5/8" Hose at 90º that comes from that Water Pump to the Heather core...

Today, Just five minutes after Started the Cool Engine, it Started to Smell like Boiling Coolant and Temp was 4/5 from Redline Hot! ... Just five Blocks away from Home... So I Turned back home again and Now my Subie is at the Garage...

Now I Don`t have any money to buy more Parts... So I will be "Walking" untill I Can fix all those Problems.

Could you Believe that?
I Even has no Computer to Post here, this one is from a Friend.

So, What do you Suggest? ... is the Timing Problem Related to the Coolant Leak, Somehow? ... or All my Subie`s Problems that Begun with the EarthQuake hit, are Related to that?


No Trip to Guatemala for Now...

Kind Regards.

Edited by Loyale 2.7 Turbo, 08 June 2009 - 03:37 AM.


#13 Loyale 2.7 Turbo

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Posted 08 June 2009 - 06:49 PM

Well... I will Take some pictures to Post Here...

Could Anybody explain if it is Possible to a Good Shaped Timin` Belt to Slip a Teeth, and Why?

I Haven`t Checked for that yet, but I Already Removed the Belt Covers and Both Timin` Belts and Tensioneers seems to be in Great Condition, Like New! ... :confused: ...

Also I Just finished to do Compression Test in all Cylinders, Both of the Water Pump`s Side (Driver) measured 172 and Both of the Other Side (Passenger) Measured 180 (with very Tiny Differences between each other); that seems to be Allright, so no Valve`s Problem here.

Any Idea will be Very Welcome!

Kind Regards.

#14 Loyale 2.7 Turbo

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Posted 09 June 2009 - 12:03 AM

Bump!

Does anybody know How to Change this Thread`s Name? ...
So I Could add the Timing Problem, not only Brakes...
Maybe somebody could Help me...

#15 Twitch de la Brat

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Posted 09 June 2009 - 12:12 AM

Hey JesZek,
I can help with the post title.
When you edit the first post, right above the main body box is the title box.
Then just change what you want to change. :)
And I don't want to sound like the sayer of doom, but it sounds like your sub
blew its headgaskets. :-\
I don't know if its earthquake related, but it sounds just like a blown
headgasket, stuttering, no power, and burning coolant.

Twitch

#16 Loyale 2.7 Turbo

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Posted 09 June 2009 - 12:34 AM

Thank you for your Kind Help with the Title, it Worked Great! :)

And about This:

...it sounds like your sub blew its headgaskets. :-\ ...


Well... I Hope not `cos I Never let my Subie to Reach High Temps, but Maybe... I`ll Check that too Tomorrow, Thank you again.

I Just Remembered that the Day when the First Earthquake hit my Country, I Drove my Subie at High Speeds at Full Throttle for around 45 Minutes...

I Usually don`t drive too Fast `cos here is Very Dangerous but that time I was in a Hurry...

My Subie`s engine was Doing around 4K and 5K RPM`s with Great Oil Pressure, Very Low Temps (Around 1/4) and Normal Voltage, as the Dash`s Gauges was Showing all the Trip: I Usually Drive Watchin` those Gauges around every ten Minutes or So...

...and the Engine`s Problem started just two Days after that Run...

Any Other Idea?

The Engine Still Revs Smooth Between the 2K and 3K RPM`s but it Idles very Very Shaky, Just like a Diesel usually does, and Barely reaches 4K or Luckily 4.5K RPM`s

Kind Regards.

#17 Twitch de la Brat

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Posted 09 June 2009 - 12:45 AM

I Just Remembered that the Day when the First Earthquake hit my Country, I Drove my Subie at High Speeds at Full Throttle for around 45 Minutes...

I Usually don`t drive too Fast `cos here is Very Dangerous but that time I was in a Hurry...

My Subie`s engine was Doing around 4K and 5K RPM`s with Great Oil Pressure, Very Low Temps (Around 1/4) and Normal Voltage, as the Dash`s Gauges was Showing all the Trip: I Usually Drive Watchin` those Gauges around every ten Minutes or So...

...and the Engine`s Problem started just two Days after that Run...

Any Other Idea?

The Engine Still Revs Smooth Between the 2K and 3K RPM`s but it Idles very Very Shaky, Just like a Diesel usually does, and Barely reaches 4K or Luckily 4.5K RPM`s

Kind Regards.


Have you replaced your fuel filter?
Since you said you usually travel at lower speeds, your high speed run may
have churned up the gunk at the bottom of your tank.
It very well may have clogged up your fuel filter or if the filter is after the
pump, ruined you fuel pump.

And the leak by your water pump may be the cause for the burning coolant
smell and the over heating.

Also, your high speed run may have jarred (shaken and beaten) your wheel
bearings to the point that they are going away on you.

Twitch

#18 Loyale 2.7 Turbo

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Posted 09 June 2009 - 07:47 PM

... high speed run may have jarred (shaken and beaten) your wheelbearings ...


Well... I`ll Check that Tomorrow; but for now let me Tell that I`ve Already Checked the Timing and Everything is Good, Fine; I Set the Timing at 20º but the Rough Idle still is There... :mad: ...

The Sparkplugs are Coming Very Blackened, Just like the Weber Carb`s is Sending too much Fuel, even if I Just Cleaned that Carb, those Sparkplugs Keeps Coming Black.

Could Anybody Tell me if there could be Something Wrong with my Weber Carb?

Maybe I Forgot to Clean down there Somewhere... :confused: ...

Any Advice will be Very Welcome!

Kind Regards.

#19 Loyale 2.7 Turbo

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Posted 10 June 2009 - 12:59 AM

This is How my Weberized EA82 Subie Looks for Now:

Posted Image

...

Posted Image

As I Said: Everything seems to be Allright with Timing.


The Coolant Leak Seems to come from The Horribly Placed 5/8" Hose
at 90º right over the Water Pump:

Posted Image

So I Will Change it Tomorrow.


Anyone could Tell me Why my Subie Keeps Blackening the Spark Plugs?

is there Anything I Missed to Clean inside my Subie`s Weber Carb?



#20 Twitch de la Brat

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Posted 10 June 2009 - 01:31 AM

Well, JesZek...
I say get an EA81 and put it in there :grin:
I'm sorry to say your sube has stumped me.
The leaking hose is probably your overheating problem, but other than that
I have no clue.
If it seems like you're burning rich, maybe you need to rebuild and rejet your
weber.

Twitch

PS: I'll see if I can send you a can of seafoam! :D

Edited by Twitch de la Brat, 10 June 2009 - 01:32 AM.
SEAFOAM!!!


#21 Loyale 2.7 Turbo

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Posted 10 June 2009 - 01:57 AM

... I'll see if I can send you a can of seafoam! :D


Well... I Read that Before... from another Great USMB Friend... So Sadly it can`t be Done then...

#22 Loyale 2.7 Turbo

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Posted 10 June 2009 - 02:19 AM

I Noticed that the 5/8" Hoses from Each Head, that were Connected to a "T" then to the Weber`s Air Filter Box, were Blowing some Amount of Oil to the Carb...

Thinkin` that Maybe a Dirty & Oily Carb is the Root of the Problem, I Done Two Things:


First I Taked out the Weber and Deeply Cleaned it:

Posted Image

Posted Image

Posted Image

Posted Image

Second, I Figured a Way to Connect Just the PCV Valve Straight to the Weber Carb`s Air Filter Box; to Avoid more Oil & Dirt comin` There.

To do So, I Obtained a 90º Adaptor, that Matched exactly the Thread in the intake Manyfold and Bring a New Straight Up Position for the PCV Valve, that I Removed & Cleaned Too.


Posted Image

Then, I Made a Straight Adaptor to Use a Single 5/8" Hose Direct from the PCV Valve to the Weber Carb`s Air Filter Box.

The Adapter is Brass Welded, from a 3/8" Thread that Match the Size and Space at the Air Filter Box, and has a 5/8" Hose Opening at the Other Side:


Posted Image

So Now my Weber Setup Looks:

Posted Image

So Straight & Clean!

Posted Image

Then a New Air Filter Element is on Its Place...

Posted Image

The 5/8" Heads` Hoses are Still Connected Each Other to a "T" and the Opening to an independent Air 5/8" Filter, so the Oil Blew from one Head is Goin to the Other one and Viceversa.

...

So: Why my Just Cleaned Weber, Keeps Blackening the Sparkplugs?



#23 Niku-Sama

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Posted 10 June 2009 - 03:45 AM

i think black plugs are running rich isnt it?
mabe your mixture got knocked off some how
does it smell like its runnin rich?

#24 Loyale 2.7 Turbo

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Posted 10 June 2009 - 07:37 AM

Thanks for your Kind Answer.

Yes, I Believe that it is Runnin` Rich, but Somehow the Mixture Screw seems to be Good...

Maybe there is Something inside that I Forgot to Remove and Clean...


Any Idea?

#25 The Beast I Drive

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Posted 10 June 2009 - 01:11 PM

The way you routed the PCV valve will not do anything, the PCV (positive crankcase ventialtion) valve allows the engine to re-burn oil vapors and other harmfull gasses that build up in the engine block. What you have done by routing the line from the airbox straight to the PCV valve is disabled that system completely.

Its supposed to be set up with one hose coming off one head and into the air box, and the other hose from the other head going into the PCV valve on the manifold. If you are getting too much oil in the carb, I would run both hoses from the heads to a T fitting and then run that to the PCV valve. Otherwise you really havent accomplished anything with your new setup :-\

-Bill




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