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Weber & Brakes Problems - EathQuake Damage!

EarthquakeBrakes Fail Carburetor Fail Cruising Ponds Caribbean Downpours JesZeK Potholes Within the Woods Loyale 2.7 Turbo Timing Belts

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43 replies to this topic

#1 Loyale 2.7 Turbo

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Posted 01 June 2009 - 01:26 AM

Last Weekend I Went in one of my Usual Trips, but went alone...

 

HPIM2376.gif


...and during it, we Got a 7.3 Degrees EarthQuake in Honduras! ... :eek: ...

 


 

EarthQuakes are very Rare in Honduras, my Country is the Only One in Central America without Volcanos, To know More about that EarthQuake, click Here: ~► http://en.wikipedia....uras_earthquake
 
Many Many Roads got Severly Damaged; some Broken areas, Missing Bridges, Flooded zones, etc... Believe me: it is Horrible to Drive while the Road Shakes ... :eek: ... especially at Very Late Night times while Feeling Sleepy ... I Usually Drive at Very Late Nights, That's Why I Have the 5,000K dual beam H.I.D. Lights.
 
Let me share a Photo to show you how some of the Roads Ended after said Earthquake: This is a Picture I Took Some Days After, the Yellow Painted Line was the Center
-Middle- of the Road; part of the lane disappeared, Also some roadside Houses Went Rolling Downhill, literaly:


 

HorribleRoads1.jpg

 

 

So, Right After the EarthQuake Shaked it All (Even my Butts, Seated on my Subie), I Decided to Still continue driving...

I Was driving alone in an Old two-way Road Within the Woods, at Around 2:30 AM in the middle of a typical Caribbean Downpour Night when the EarthQuake Suddenly Happened ... then I Felt Scary Like I Was in the Middle of Nowhere with dancing trees all around, So I Choose to continue Driving 
-But pretty Slowly- my beloved Subaru  "BumbleBeast"  because I Was Nearby -Around 20 Miles- of my Destination town.

Some few Miles After that, I Had to Cross thru a newly formed Pond that had a Hidden -Under Muddy Waters- Break / Stones at Some Point ... Both were New Obstacles
(Pond & Pavement Break / stones) Due to the EarthQuake... I drove in first gear as slow as I could, but suddenly, my Subie Fell and had a solid Impact Sound under the Driver's Front Wheel ... :banghead: ... I Know that Maybe it was a truly Stupid Idea to Continue Driving after such Earthquake, But I didn't wanted to get stranded in the middle of nowhere, within the woods.

Then, when I was almost Reaching the Town, My Subie Totally Lost the Brakes!
... :eek: ... somehow I Was Able to Drive like That because no one else was on the streets, I drove very Slowly and Parked it Outside Home, with the tires Turned to the Sidewalk.

So, the Very Next Day I Checked Everything ... I Don't Know How it Happened, but some of the e-Brake Parts at the Caliper of the Driver's side Wheel, got Damaged; the Small arm that activates the Piston on the caliper, where the Cable goes attached, was Bent; Also All the Brake Fluid was Coming from the Rear of the Caliper's Piston, so the e-Brake's Bolt-Like Pin got bent and had a ripped O-Ring.

I Just Removed the Parts, Straighten the Bent pin and used a New O-Ring to Seal the Leak: It Works as Long as I Don't attach the e-Brake Cable there Again
...  :mellow: ... because I tried to re-attach it and if Someone Pulls the e-Brake Handle, Everything Works Fine but the O-Ring will Break and Leak Again for sure! ... :banghead:... So, the e-Brake is no longer Working anymore, I left disconnected both Cables to avoid brake fluid leaks.

I am Really Tired of that e-Brake System which has gave me many headaches and Now, after the Hit, it seems to be Damaged beyond any repair ... it Always have Been considered by me as one of the Worst Parts of My Subie, along the Timing Belts and the Factory Rear Shock Absorbers. 

 

I started another Whole Thread, only for the Front Calipers' Swap Questions.

 

It is Here: ~► http://www.ultimates...nt-brakes-swap/

 




Kind Regards.


Edited by Loyale 2.7 Turbo, 19 May 2015 - 09:20 PM.
Read from Post Nº 12 to Understand


#2 The Beast I Drive

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Posted 01 June 2009 - 01:35 AM

First off, glad to hear you werent harmed in that quake, that would scare the ************ out of me!

As for your e-brake, I dont know why you have such bad problems with your setup, Ive actaully never heard of any problems like that prior to being damaged...

I dont know of any Subaru brake assemblies that will directly bolt on to the Loyal knuckles, the only thing I can think of would be to do a 5 lug swap using early Impreza parts (Im guessing XT6's are pretty rare down there) unless you have the xt6 bits, then do the rear e-brake setup from a Legacy.

I would make sure you find some way to incorporate an emergency brake system of some kind, after all, if it isnt there then thats when you will need it the most.

Im sure others will shed some more light on this, and have more info/ideas
-Bill

#3 Loyale 2.7 Turbo

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Posted 01 June 2009 - 01:42 AM

...Im guessing XT6's are pretty rare down there...

 

Yes, There are Very Few Subaru XT6 here in Honduras.

 

Long ago, I Had Access to a Wrecked XT6, but their Brakes were seized.


Edited by Loyale 2.7 Turbo, 19 May 2015 - 09:25 PM.


#4 Loyale 2.7 Turbo

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Posted 01 June 2009 - 01:57 AM

I Disconnected both e-Brake Cables from the Calipers,

 

and Tied them with Metal Wire in Order to Prevent 'em to Move.

Kind Regards.


Edited by Loyale 2.7 Turbo, 19 May 2015 - 09:44 PM.


#5 The Dude Abides

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Posted 01 June 2009 - 02:17 AM

Just wanted to say glad to see you are ok. I never even heard about a quake in the news. Anything over 7.0 is big time so glad you were ok. Can you take the brakes off your other subaru until you can figure out where to get parts.

Ben

#6 Numbchux

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Posted 01 June 2009 - 04:04 AM

well.....off the top of my head...

XT6 and EA82 calipers are interchangeable.

baccaruda found an EJ-series (from an early legacy, IIRC) caliper bracket that allowed him to use XT6 calipers with his EJ knuckles. thus keeping the front ebrake even with the EJ axles and such.

SO, I would assume that the reverse could be done. mount an EJ-series caliper to an EA bracket.....




and yea, I've had trouble with those. the mechanism seizes up. had one car get so bad, that if I set the ebrake, I had to turn the wheel, reach behind it, and manually release the brake......not fun.

#7 Bucky92

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Posted 01 June 2009 - 05:57 AM

I was thinking about you Jeszek when I heard about the quake...and was alittle worried when I didnt see you here for a couple days.

Cant help with the brakes but wanted to say that I am happy you and everyone is OK.

#8 mdjdc

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Posted 01 June 2009 - 08:49 AM

Glad to hear that you are okay. I have had several ea82 series cars and been wheelin with them and no e-brake troubles. I did buy one witha frozen ebrake, but that was easily replaced.

My suggestion would be to put another set of calipers on there. If you want some, just let me know and I can pull a set and send it to you. PM me if you think you might want to go that way.

Mike

#9 baccaruda

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Posted 01 June 2009 - 12:50 PM

I never heard anything in the news either... glad you're OK though.

I got front calipers from an XT6 and the caliper mounting brackets from what I believe was a 2.5RS but I didn't pull them myself and it was a while ago. The calipers required a tiny bit of grinding but fit properly. This allowed me to retain the front E-brake with a 5-lug conversion.
What that REALLY means it that it allowed me to put off moving the E-brake to the rear :lol:

so XT6 font caliper brackets should accept 2.5RS front calipers and might require a little grinding.

I don't know if any other EJ calipers will do the same.. I assumed that someone had found a way to make it work and posted about it, and I was right :P but it's been like 3 years since I searched for it.


well.....off the top of my head...

XT6 and EA82 calipers are interchangeable.

baccaruda found an EJ-series (from an early legacy, IIRC) caliper bracket that allowed him to use XT6 calipers with his EJ knuckles. thus keeping the front ebrake even with the EJ axles and such.

SO, I would assume that the reverse could be done. mount an EJ-series caliper to an EA bracket.....




and yea, I've had trouble with those. the mechanism seizes up. had one car get so bad, that if I set the ebrake, I had to turn the wheel, reach behind it, and manually release the brake......not fun.



#10 Subaru_dude

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Posted 02 June 2009 - 07:46 PM

Having a fwd Subie with front ebrake is pretty useless on any steep gravel or dirt hill.

Glad to hear you're ok. That's quite a quake... That Subie sure does take alot down there. Testimate to how well built these cars are.

#11 Loyale 2.7 Turbo

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Posted 08 June 2009 - 02:33 AM

First of All: Thank you to Everyone for your Nice Wishes and Advices, You're So Kind! :)

 

Having a fwd Subie with front ebrake is pretty useless on any steep gravel or dirt hill. ...

 

Let me Add this: it becomes Really Pretty Useless in almost ANY Place,

 

after the mechanism gets old and worn.

 



The EarthQuake Struck Back Again! ... :o ... Yes, just Moments ago.

Edit: Check here ~► http://www.abc.net.a.../08/2592422.htm

But this time I Wasn't Driving, Just sitting on my Home's Front Yard, seeing my Subie and Thinking... those Earthquakes are Always pretty Scary.

 



Besides the e-Brake problems, my "BumbleBeast" has another problems...

 

This Thread's Title summarizes what is going on, but let me elaborate in further posts.


Edited by Loyale 2.7 Turbo, 19 May 2015 - 10:00 PM.


#12 Loyale 2.7 Turbo

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Posted 08 June 2009 - 03:01 AM

Despite the e-Brake problems that my "BumbleBeast" has, I was Planning to do another Travel soon, but my Subie Started to Show a  "Drowning Carburetor"  Behaviour while Driving.

 

First I Thought it was a Dirty Carburetor, so I Removed the Weber and Cleansed it very deeply.

 

... It Wasn't the cause.  :mellow: 

 


 

Then, I Borrowed a Timing Light Gun from a Friend and While I was Trying to Check the Timing, it seems like it was Way Off ...  :o ... Because even Moving the Distributor, I Can Not Reach to see the Marks! ...  :eek: ... I Double Checked Everything and Seems like one of the Timin' Belts did Jumped one or two Teeth ... :wacko: ... Because the EA82 is Expelling Gasoline Thru the Carburetor while Acceleratin' and it Barely Reaches 4K RPM's with farting sounds on the exhaust.

 

I Believe that my Subie's Timing Belts are Old enough to be in need to be changed ... So I After that, I Purchased the New Timing Belts at the local Subaru Dealer, Now I'm waiting to have enough free Time to do the timin' belts Job.

 



Meanwhile, I had to drive my Subie  -Slowly-  with that "Gasoline Geyser Carband a couple of Days after that, it got yet another Problem: the Wheels' Ball Bearings Started to Sound Rough! ... :banghead: ... and Suddenly that noise got very Loud! ...  :( ... I Don't Know which ones exactly yet, but the Noise seems to be Comin' from the Front's Passenger side ones... 

 



Also the EA82 engine Started to Leak some Coolant from Around the Water Pump, so I Suspect that the hidden 5/8" Hose at 90º that comes from that Water Pump to the heater core, is ripped.

Today, Just five minutes after Started the Cool Engine, it Smelled like Boiling Coolant and Temp was 4/5 from Redline Hot! ... Just five Blocks away from Home
... :ph34r: ... So I Turned back home again and Now my Subie is at the Garage, with a dry radiator.


I Don't have any more money to buy more Parts now ... So we will be "Walking" and using public transportation untill I Can fix all those Problems.

 

After this Series of Unfortunate events, my Wife already started to search for Another Car to have a "Backup", because we have a little daughter, and my '69 coupé is at my parents' home, far away in my hometown.

 


 

► EDIT: She won an Auction and obtained a "Backup Car" ... Look ~► Here.

 



I Bet that going thru that Pond and that big Hit under water, could be the Cause of all this Disaster ... not only I have problems with the car, but also others related to this situation... 

 

Could it be that the Timing Belts' Problem is Related to the Coolant Leak, Somehow:confused: 

 

Kind Regards.


Edited by Loyale 2.7 Turbo, 26 May 2015 - 11:56 AM.


#13 Loyale 2.7 Turbo

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Posted 08 June 2009 - 06:49 PM

I will Take some Photos to share Here with you, as soon as Possible.

Could Anybody explain how a Good Shaped Timin' Belt, can Slip a Teeth, and Why?

I Haven't Checked for that yet, but I Already Removed the Timin' Belt Covers and Both Timin' Belts and Tensioners seems to be in Great Condition, Like New!
... :confused: ...

Also I Just finished to do Compression Test in all Cylinders, Both at the Driver's Side measured 172 and Both of the Passenger's Side Measured 180 (with very Tiny Differences between each other); that seems to be Allright, so no Valve's Problems here.

Kind Regards.


Edited by Loyale 2.7 Turbo, 19 May 2015 - 11:15 PM.


#14 Loyale 2.7 Turbo

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Posted 09 June 2009 - 12:03 AM

Bump!

Does anybody knows How to Change this Thread's Title?


So I Could add the Timing Problem, not only the Brakes.


Maybe somebody could Help me... Because right now,

 

The Brakes / Calipers \ e-Brake problems are being discussed

 

in another thread for that subject only.

 

Here: ~► http://www.ultimates...nt-brakes-swap/

 

Kind Regards.


Edited by Loyale 2.7 Turbo, 19 May 2015 - 11:21 PM.


#15 Twitch de la Brat

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Posted 09 June 2009 - 12:12 AM

Hey JesZek,
I can help with the post title.
When you edit the first post, right above the main body box is the title box.
Then just change what you want to change. :)
And I don't want to sound like the sayer of doom, but it sounds like your sub
blew its headgaskets. :-\
I don't know if its earthquake related, but it sounds just like a blown
headgasket, stuttering, no power, and burning coolant.

Twitch

#16 Loyale 2.7 Turbo

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Posted 09 June 2009 - 12:34 AM

Thank you for your Kind suggestion.

And about This:

 

...it sounds like your sub blew its headgaskets...

 
Well... I hope Not ...the Compression Test gave good Results.

I Just Remembered that the Day when the First Earthquake hit my Country, I Drove my Subie at High Speeds at Full Throttle for around 45 Minutes, because the road was completely Alone, and I was enjoying the Boxer Rumble sound, thru a full-throttle Weber Carb's throat... it is Awesomethumbsup.gif

I Usually don't drive Fast because here is Very Dangerous, but that time the Road was alone and I was in a Hurry...

 

tumblr_lrusknBAUg1qhw4wvo1_400.gif

 

 

My Subie's engine was Doing between 4K and 5K RPM's with good oil Pressure, normal engine Temperatures and normal Voltage, as the gauges on the instrument cluster was Showing during all the Trip: I Usually Drive Watching those Gauges around every ten Minutes or So...

...and the Engine's Problem started just two Days after that "Race"  0s140ck.gif

The Engine Still Revs Smooth Between the 2K and 3K RPM's but it Idles very Very Shaky, Just like an old Diesel usually does, and Barely reaches 4K Luckily.

Kind Regards.


Edited by Loyale 2.7 Turbo, 19 May 2015 - 11:52 PM.


#17 Twitch de la Brat

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Posted 09 June 2009 - 12:45 AM

I Just Remembered that the Day when the First Earthquake hit my Country, I Drove my Subie at High Speeds at Full Throttle for around 45 Minutes...

I Usually don`t drive too Fast `cos here is Very Dangerous but that time I was in a Hurry...

My Subie`s engine was Doing around 4K and 5K RPM`s with Great Oil Pressure, Very Low Temps (Around 1/4) and Normal Voltage, as the Dash`s Gauges was Showing all the Trip: I Usually Drive Watchin` those Gauges around every ten Minutes or So...

...and the Engine`s Problem started just two Days after that Run...

Any Other Idea?

The Engine Still Revs Smooth Between the 2K and 3K RPM`s but it Idles very Very Shaky, Just like a Diesel usually does, and Barely reaches 4K or Luckily 4.5K RPM`s

Kind Regards.


Have you replaced your fuel filter?
Since you said you usually travel at lower speeds, your high speed run may
have churned up the gunk at the bottom of your tank.
It very well may have clogged up your fuel filter or if the filter is after the
pump, ruined you fuel pump.

And the leak by your water pump may be the cause for the burning coolant
smell and the over heating.

Also, your high speed run may have jarred (shaken and beaten) your wheel
bearings to the point that they are going away on you.

Twitch

#18 Loyale 2.7 Turbo

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Posted 09 June 2009 - 07:47 PM

... high speed run may have jarred (shaken and beaten) your wheelbearings ...

 

I'll check fuel filters tomorrow, for now let me Tell that I've Already Checked the Timing and Everything seems to be Good, I Set the Timing at 20º but the Rough Idle still is There ... :mad: ... 

 

The Sparkplugs are Coming Very Blackened, Just like if the Weber Carb's is Sending too much Fuel, despite that I Just Cleaned that Carb, those Sparkplugs Keeps Coming Black.

Could Anybody Tell me if there could be Something Wrong with my Weber Carb?

Maybe I Forgot to Clean down there Somewhere
... :confused: ...

Any Advice will be Very Welcome!

Kind Regards.


Edited by Loyale 2.7 Turbo, 20 May 2015 - 12:00 AM.


#19 Loyale 2.7 Turbo

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Posted 10 June 2009 - 12:59 AM

This is How my Weberized EA82 Subie Looks for Now:

NudeBelts2.jpg


...

NudeBelts1.jpg

As I Said: Everything seems to be Allright with Timing.


The Coolant Leak Seems to come from The Horribly Placed

 

5/8" Hose at 90º located hidding over the Water Pump:


NakedWaterPump1.jpg

So I Will Change it Tomorrow.


Anyone could Tell me Why my Subie Keeps Blackening the Spark Plugs,

 

and having Rough idle / hard acceleration?


Edited by Loyale 2.7 Turbo, 20 May 2015 - 12:12 AM.


#20 Twitch de la Brat

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Posted 10 June 2009 - 01:31 AM

Well, JesZek...
I say get an EA81 and put it in there :grin:
I'm sorry to say your sube has stumped me.
The leaking hose is probably your overheating problem, but other than that
I have no clue.
If it seems like you're burning rich, maybe you need to rebuild and rejet your
weber.

Twitch

PS: I'll see if I can send you a can of seafoam! :D

Edited by Twitch de la Brat, 10 June 2009 - 01:32 AM.
SEAFOAM!!!


#21 Loyale 2.7 Turbo

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Posted 10 June 2009 - 01:57 AM

... I'll see if I can send you a can of seafoam! :D

 

Déjá-Vú!  (http://en.wikipedia....rg/wiki/Déjà_vu)

 

I faced that Before: another Great USMB Friend tried to send me a couple of Seafoam Cans ... 

 

So Sadly it can't be Done, because Mail Systems doesn't allow to travel Chemicals,

 

even worse between countries... However, I thank you so much.  

 

Kind Regards.


Edited by Loyale 2.7 Turbo, 20 May 2015 - 12:20 AM.


#22 Loyale 2.7 Turbo

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Posted 10 June 2009 - 02:19 AM

As I wrote above, originally I was thinking that maybe the Cause for the problems,

 

was a Dirty Carburetor, so I Taked out the Weber and Deeply Cleansed it, see:

 


WeberCleanup3.jpg

 


WeberCleanup4.jpg
 

 

WeberCleanup1.jpg

 


WeberCleanup2.jpg
 

 

I Figured a Way to Connect the PCV Valve Straight to the Weber Carb's Air Filter Box:

 

I Obtained a 90º Adaptor, that Matched exactly the Thread in the intake Manifold:

 


90intaketoPCVAdapter2.jpg
 

 

I Made a Straight Adaptor to Use a Single 5/8" Hose Directly,

 

from the PCV Valve to the Weber Carb's Air Filter Box, see:

 


3-8to5-8Plug2.jpg
 

 

Now my Weber Setup Looks like this:

FinalLook2.jpg

 

 

So Straight & Cleanthumbsup.gif

FinalLook6.jpg

 

 

Then I used a New Air Filter Element made by E.M.P.I.

AirFilterplusPlates3.jpg
 

 

So, Why my Just Cleansed Weber, Keeps Blackening the Sparkplugs?

 

How about the Rough idle & Hard Acceleration?


Edited by Loyale 2.7 Turbo, 20 May 2015 - 12:35 AM.


#23 Niku-Sama

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Posted 10 June 2009 - 03:45 AM

i think black plugs are running rich isnt it?
mabe your mixture got knocked off some how
does it smell like its runnin rich?

#24 Loyale 2.7 Turbo

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Posted 10 June 2009 - 07:37 AM

Thanks for your Kind Answer.

Yes, I Believe that it is Runnin' Rich, but Somehow the Mixture Screw seems to be Good... Maybe there is Something inside that I Forgot to Remove and Clean.


Any Idea?


Edited by Loyale 2.7 Turbo, 20 May 2015 - 12:37 AM.


#25 The Beast I Drive

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Posted 10 June 2009 - 01:11 PM

The way you routed the PCV valve will not do anything, the PCV (positive crankcase ventialtion) valve allows the engine to re-burn oil vapors and other harmfull gasses that build up in the engine block. What you have done by routing the line from the airbox straight to the PCV valve is disabled that system completely.

Its supposed to be set up with one hose coming off one head and into the air box, and the other hose from the other head going into the PCV valve on the manifold. If you are getting too much oil in the carb, I would run both hoses from the heads to a T fitting and then run that to the PCV valve. Otherwise you really havent accomplished anything with your new setup :-\

-Bill





Also tagged with one or more of these keywords: EarthquakeBrakes Fail, Carburetor Fail, Cruising Ponds, Caribbean Downpours, JesZeK, Potholes, Within the Woods, Loyale 2.7 Turbo, Timing Belts

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