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A/C compressor won't turn, 93 Loyale
Posted 03 June 2009 - 03:20 PM
Posted 03 June 2009 - 03:37 PM
Did I overlook one? I can't find any wiring diagram which shows the A/C system. I have Chilton's total care subaru manual.
Posted 03 June 2009 - 03:55 PM
Posted 17 June 2009 - 01:26 PM
There was no pressure switch between the receiver/dryer and the condenser.
I did however decide to hot wire the compressor, and it engages, so I started over again:
Vacuum pumped 1hr. Let sit 1 hr, no leak down (up?) so no leaks.
Added r134a, first the small amount that would flow without the engine/ ac compressor running then with engine running and the ac compressor hot-wired. A fan in front of radiator . The system then took the small cans, but it took a long time to get each one in.
I weighed each can before and after to total about 24 oz. The sticker said uses about 28-30 oz. r12, so 30oz * .85 = 25.5, I but in about 24 oz, perfect !??
Why did it take so long for each can? (at least 45 min.)
Seemed to be cooling fine, I then stopped the engine and got 60 psi on Low side and 170 psi on Hi side.
Thought I was finished, disconnected Hi side gauge quick connect, and then disconnected Lo side quick connect BUT it is still leaks slowly like valve stem isn't seating. I have reconnected Lo side gauge quick connect so as not to loose all my r134.
Did you all remember I have purchased and installed the Subaru retrofit Kit, part no. SOA864A100 new dryer and three hoses. I followed all instructions. I emptied compressor (looked fine inside, no debris, everything spotless ), and added 100 cc of Poly ester oil, and added another 50 cc to evaporator hose, holding it up to drain into evaporator.
So now I have reconnected the low side gauge and intend to bring back to Gerald Subaru in Elmhurst IL. I'm hoping they will help me now.
BTW I do not need to hot wire the compressor anymore, I guess there is enough refrigerant to satisfy the pressure switch/sensor whereever it is.
Posted 19 June 2009 - 12:27 AM
Went to Grand Subaru today, they confirmed the shrader valve in the retrofit kit needed tightening. The connector to the Compressor coil was faulty and would intermittantly open so the compressor would stop running. I replaced the faulty compressor coil power connector so it is good to go.
They also pointed out the pressure switch, which was called a trinary switch. It's connector is also faulty and sometimes would also open, causing the compressor to stop!
I also had a slight leak at the low side o-ring boss so I had to replace the o-ring again. This time I refilled with R134 using warm water to speed up the transfer. Put in two 12 oz. cans and it was cooling very well. Outside temp 90 in garage, inside center vent on fan speed 2 was 60 degrees.
Now only have to make sure leaks are all sealed, trinary switch connector continues to make good connection.
Any suggestion for the connector? Would bulb grease help?
Posted 17 July 2009 - 12:36 PM
Posted 17 July 2009 - 06:47 PM
Posted 17 July 2009 - 07:46 PM
I go ahead and replace all the orings I can get to while I'm converting - particularly those where the one bolt attaches the hose at the compressor. Those are the most likely to leak in my experience. Makes sense they're the ones that get most of the heat and vibration from the engine/moving parts. I also replace the valve cores too sometimes while the system is "open".
Few dollars for the kit, a can of R134a and a couple 50 cent orings you got a/c for under $40.
Posted 18 July 2009 - 02:01 AM
Posted 21 July 2009 - 01:35 AM
Posted 08 September 2009 - 05:36 PM
Posted 08 September 2009 - 06:02 PM
Posted 09 September 2009 - 09:46 PM
Posted 10 September 2009 - 05:07 AM
if it squealing the belts hard and getting harder and cant grip even when its tighetened to spec
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