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A/C compressor won't turn, 93 Loyale


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14 replies to this topic

#1 myhilo

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Posted 03 June 2009 - 03:20 PM

I have a 93 Loyale, and have just converted it to R134. I bought the Subaru parts, new hoses and receiver/dryer, tried to recharge after evacuating, holds vacuum for at least 30 min, but only would take a 1/3 of first can without starting engine. With engine running , compressor doesn't run, clutch doesn't engage. Is there a pressure switch and how is the compressor clutch wired? I removed the evaporator to clean and inspect, there is a expansion valve, and a small rectangular device which I wasn't clear was piped into the system, was is the heat sensor/ thermostat to sense freeze up? Can't find a pressure sensor or switch, can I bypass and power the compressor clutch, there seems to be a single wire connector, is it a clutch power lead? The connector seems rather worn.

myhilo.

#2 bheinen74

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Posted 03 June 2009 - 03:34 PM

check the fuse for AC

#3 myhilo

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Posted 03 June 2009 - 03:37 PM

I checked fuses on the fuse panel, none marked A/C, both heater fuses OK.
Did I overlook one? I can't find any wiring diagram which shows the A/C system. I have Chilton's total care subaru manual.

#4 john in KY

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Posted 03 June 2009 - 03:55 PM

Locate the dryer. Should be on the passenger side of engine bay. Follow the hard line going in the direction of the radiator and you will find the pressure switch. Can't be more than 10 inches from the dryer.

#5 myhilo

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Posted 17 June 2009 - 01:26 PM

Success, sort of..
There was no pressure switch between the receiver/dryer and the condenser.
I did however decide to hot wire the compressor, and it engages, so I started over again:
Vacuum pumped 1hr. Let sit 1 hr, no leak down (up?) so no leaks.
Added r134a, first the small amount that would flow without the engine/ ac compressor running then with engine running and the ac compressor hot-wired. A fan in front of radiator . The system then took the small cans, but it took a long time to get each one in.
I weighed each can before and after to total about 24 oz. The sticker said uses about 28-30 oz. r12, so 30oz * .85 = 25.5, I but in about 24 oz, perfect !??

Why did it take so long for each can? (at least 45 min.)
Seemed to be cooling fine, I then stopped the engine and got 60 psi on Low side and 170 psi on Hi side.

Thought I was finished, disconnected Hi side gauge quick connect, and then disconnected Lo side quick connect BUT it is still leaks slowly like valve stem isn't seating. :mad: I have reconnected Lo side gauge quick connect so as not to loose all my r134.

Did you all remember I have purchased and installed the Subaru retrofit Kit, part no. SOA864A100 new dryer and three hoses. I followed all instructions. I emptied compressor (looked fine inside, no debris, everything spotless ), and added 100 cc of Poly ester oil, and added another 50 cc to evaporator hose, holding it up to drain into evaporator.

So now I have reconnected the low side gauge and intend to bring back to Gerald Subaru in Elmhurst IL. I'm hoping they will help me now.

BTW I do not need to hot wire the compressor anymore, I guess there is enough refrigerant to satisfy the pressure switch/sensor whereever it is.

#6 myhilo

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Posted 19 June 2009 - 12:27 AM

Further progress.
Went to Grand Subaru today, they confirmed the shrader valve in the retrofit kit needed tightening. The connector to the Compressor coil was faulty and would intermittantly open so the compressor would stop running. I replaced the faulty compressor coil power connector so it is good to go.

They also pointed out the pressure switch, which was called a trinary switch. It's connector is also faulty and sometimes would also open, causing the compressor to stop!

I also had a slight leak at the low side o-ring boss so I had to replace the o-ring again. This time I refilled with R134 using warm water to speed up the transfer. Put in two 12 oz. cans and it was cooling very well. Outside temp 90 in garage, inside center vent on fan speed 2 was 60 degrees.

Now only have to make sure leaks are all sealed, trinary switch connector continues to make good connection.

Any suggestion for the connector? Would bulb grease help?

#7 myhilo

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Posted 17 July 2009 - 12:36 PM

It's been a few weeks, the AC seems to be working well now, Thanks for all the advice.:banana:

#8 beataru

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Posted 17 July 2009 - 06:47 PM

bulb grease is dielectric grease, so that may help. Also about this retrofit kit, where did you get it from, because I see the price on subaru genuine and its 253.72. not horrible for cold ac, but its enough to make me wonder if you got a better deal somewhere.

#9 grossgary

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Posted 17 July 2009 - 07:46 PM

Retrofits are easy - i've done a bunch with 100% success so far. Buy the auto parts store $10 "kit" - just adapters that attach to your existing hose fittings and have a R134a fitting on the end. After that, just empty it and charge it with R134a.

I go ahead and replace all the orings I can get to while I'm converting - particularly those where the one bolt attaches the hose at the compressor. Those are the most likely to leak in my experience. Makes sense they're the ones that get most of the heat and vibration from the engine/moving parts. I also replace the valve cores too sometimes while the system is "open".

Few dollars for the kit, a can of R134a and a couple 50 cent orings you got a/c for under $40.

#10 myhilo

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Posted 18 July 2009 - 02:01 AM

Yes I bought the kit from Subaru, and it did cost alot! I was new to converting and read way too much, believing I needed to replace the receiver/dryer with a new 134a compatible one. Most people don't think this is necessary but I needed as few points of failure as possible. The biggest gripe I have with the subaru part kit was that the reciever/dryer came with the input and outlet ports reversed, so it wouldn't bolt in directly, I had to bend the sh**t out of the outlet pipe to shorten it up to fit it.

#11 beataru

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Posted 21 July 2009 - 01:35 AM

Its a good idea to replace the dryer and hoses, especially hoses, considering that some desicants dont like the different oil that r134a uses, but since you used ester its fine. however the hoses were a great idea to replace. I just wanted to make sure you didnt get some super wizbang deal!

#12 myhilo

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Posted 08 September 2009 - 05:36 PM

All worked well for a few weeks, but now every once in a while I get a belt squeal, and see the charge lite come on before I panic and shut off the ac. A few miles later if you turn on AC, it won't cool, but if you shut off engine and then start up-turn on AC it cools,, not too easy to understand. I have a can of belt dressing I would like to put on each belt individually but I don't drive it enough to have the problem repeat. Any suggestions now? Maybe add a few more cc's of ester oil? Take both belts off an try to identify any of the pumps rotation or bearing problems?

#13 azsubaru

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Posted 08 September 2009 - 06:02 PM

When mine did that, it was simply a loose belt. It would squeal, the compressor would kick out, and nothing blowing but hot air. I could sometimes get the compressor to stay engaged by turning the AC off and on. Put on a new belt and the problem went away.

#14 myhilo

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Posted 09 September 2009 - 09:46 PM

I have tightened the belt a few times, if my plan to wait until this occurs frequently enough to 'catch it in the act' and put belt dressing on each belt doesn't work the a new belt would be a next step, but the present belt doesn't look worn and isn't stretched so much that the adjustment travel is all used up, So I haven't been able to condemn the belt. Just in a wait and see mode at present, Thanks for the suggestion, your experience is appreciated.

myhilo

#15 Niku-Sama

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Posted 10 September 2009 - 05:07 AM

belt dressing makes a huge mess, i would use a new belt before dressing.

if it squealing the belts hard and getting harder and cant grip even when its tighetened to spec




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