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radius rod bending , how to fix


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16 replies to this topic

#1 Scott in Bellingham

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Posted 18 June 2009 - 07:38 AM

seems like I cant keep these straight heres a few Ive bent

http://www.ultimates...&pictureid=1310



so I shoved the bar threw a 1 x 1-1/2" rectangular tube and welded the ended we ll see how this works will test this saturday at walker

http://www.ultimates...&pictureid=1311


what have you guys done and how do you prevent such bending ??









.

#2 bigo1966

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Posted 18 June 2009 - 07:51 AM

How do you keep bending them? Heavy foot or what?

#3 s'ko

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Posted 18 June 2009 - 07:53 AM

i think it's a classic example of how we are taking these cars beyond their intended design limits.

a completely tubular radius rod would probably do the trick, but then you will be dealing with the rear mount ripping off b/c it's just stamped sheet metal, so then you make a reinforced rear mount.

After that I think things should be good. Can't really see the bolts shearing, but if they do, you might just want to design a one piece a arm for the front along with a new rear mounting point.

that's my .02

BW

#4 Numbchux

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Posted 18 June 2009 - 12:19 PM

I probably bent/destroyed 8-10 of those while wheelin my subarus. and even so, managed to rip all 6 captive nuts out of the framerails at some point too....



I'd leave 'em weak and carry extras!

#5 bheinen74

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Posted 18 June 2009 - 12:50 PM

on full suspension compression, are you sure its not hitting on the frame rail or that thing that hangs down which has the brake line routed thru

#6 backwoodsboy

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Posted 18 June 2009 - 12:57 PM

Not to jinx you, but I would be willing to bet the rod bends at one of the welds... since the steel has lost some temper from the welding there.

:popcorn:

#7 bheinen74

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Posted 18 June 2009 - 01:01 PM

maybe you have really worn shocks, and the combo of the bigger tire hitting into obstacles. What tire pressure also?
I consider you a wheeler level way above my few times out, but I dont want to be doing this to mine so i want to learn from the benefit of you bending them. Please followup on this more.

#8 Scott in Bellingham

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Posted 18 June 2009 - 02:10 PM

I dont want to be doing this to mine so i want to learn from the benefit of you bending them. Please followup on this more.


its from ramming the front tire into rocks, roots trees other imovable items

#9 Qman

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Posted 18 June 2009 - 02:55 PM

its from ramming the front tire into rocks, roots trees other imovable items


Only those who seriously offroad would know that Scott.

I re-enforced mine with 1/4" tubing/pipe. The only problem with that is you no longer have your "fuse" there. It is much easier to carry a few radius rods then it is to carry body mounts or control arms. There was a lengthy conversation regarding this exact thing. People were wanting to reenforce every part on the suspension. The problem with that is that you lose your known weak point and no longer know what is going to break.

Just a grain of salt to throw over your shoulder.

Edited by Qman, 18 June 2009 - 02:59 PM.


#10 TheSubaruJunkie

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Posted 18 June 2009 - 06:42 PM

What does it do to the lower control arm after you pretzel a radius rod like that? I bent one once, and it tweaked the lower control arm and its mount. Even after replacing the radius rod & control arm, the car never drove straight again.

#11 Numbchux

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Posted 18 June 2009 - 09:13 PM

probably about half the time that I needed to replace the radius rod, I had to replace the control arm too.

never tweaked the mount.....maybe EA82 xmembers are a bit tougher.

#12 Scott in Bellingham

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Posted 18 June 2009 - 10:55 PM

What does it do to the lower control arm after you pretzel a radius rod like that? I bent one once, and it tweaked the lower control arm and its mount. Even after replacing the radius rod & control arm, the car never drove straight again.



the control arm bends near the bolt mount , you can usually just unbend it , but they do start to crack at that point , Ive never hurt the crossmember its a Ea82

#13 VaporTrail

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Posted 18 June 2009 - 11:02 PM

my dad had one rust off while he was driving it on the highway!!!! nothing like a little forward/rearward wheel travel to wake you up!

I never bent one that I know of... just broke and bent other stuff.....

#14 TeamCF

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Posted 19 June 2009 - 12:39 AM

I've bent one. Was told to weld a piece of angle iron (1/2"-3/4") the length of it.
I think it was Turbone who told me about that. (?)

#15 Phizinza

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Posted 19 June 2009 - 04:02 AM

Drive softer, use smaller tyres to gain crawl gearing, pick your best line by doing a walk over the terrain before you drive it. But seems you've been 4wding long enough Scott, I'd suggest just sticking solid axles under your subies and build a subframe.....

#16 monstaru

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Posted 19 June 2009 - 07:52 PM

just mount it in a different place.......use the curve to your advantage.:banana:

#17 mykingcrab

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Posted 04 July 2009 - 02:08 PM

http://www.ultimates...=1&d=1246734267

I realize that you question was" what have you guys done",

I only have done this on my 2wd toyota Ivan Stuart clone that I built,sold.

I like Downeys idea.

when it rotates on the same axis,there is no bind, and no rearward-frontward wheel movement. Its alot stronger to trail this link than to have it lead. cant bend it...........It seems way overkill for what were dealing with on our subes, but its a solution,,,,,,,,,,,,,
and with you being one,if not the best fabricator on the usmb, should be a breeze with that awsome jig you have in your shop.:grin:

Attached Files


Edited by mykingcrab, 08 July 2009 - 11:16 PM.





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