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'88 GL10 Ignition Switch Removal


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10 replies to this topic

#1 DPDISXR4Ti

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Posted 25 January 2004 - 11:52 AM

I've got free access to remove stuff from a '88 Wagon, so I thought I'd grab the ignition switch, since the one on my '85 Brat is on it's last legs and I've got two keys for this one from the '88. It appears the steering wheel needs to come off and then the whole switch just slides off the column, yes? What's the "trick" to getting the switch loose off the column? Is it just a friction fit, and I need to break it loose? Anyone recall what size socket I need for the steering wheel nut?

Oh yea, one last question.... Will this switch readily swap over to the Brat, both physically and electronically?

Thanks!

#2 thealleyboy

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Posted 25 January 2004 - 01:57 PM

The best way to get it off the column is to carefully drill out the rivets. Once the heads of the rivets are off, the assembly comes apart into two pieces.

Problem is, how to get a drill on the rivets at that angle.

One way (the fastest and easiest) is to use a right-angle drill. This is a good investment if you don't already own one.

Another way is to take apart the steering column. They are not all alike, but I've seen some that are bolted together using an opposite-threaded fastener (clockwise to loosen). You can then take the section that has the switch off, and put it on your bench or drill press.

To reinstall, you will need the metric fastener that threads into the base of the ignition switch. You have to be careful not to damage the soft aluminum while drilling out the rivet.

Should work on your Brat with little or no mods...

good luck, John

#3 DPDISXR4Ti

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Posted 25 January 2004 - 03:13 PM

Okay, thanks. I guess they're riveted in place onto the shaft at the factory. I've already got the 90-degree attachment, so I guess I'll have to try putting it to use.

Thanks...

#4 Qman

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Posted 25 January 2004 - 03:44 PM

I am not 100% on this one but I do not believe the ignition switches are interchangable between the EA81 Brat and the EA82 wagon.

#5 DPDISXR4Ti

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Posted 25 January 2004 - 03:57 PM

I was thinking that might be the case. It's too damn cold to bother messing with this now. Hmm, wonder how readily I might be able to just take a hack saw through the shaft? If the FD lights it up for their drill before I get to it, I won't be too upset. Hell, I wouldn't have even bothered except for the fact there were a pair of keys in the thing! If I find out, I'll post details back here.

#6 XSNRG

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Posted 25 January 2004 - 11:08 PM

If I remember correctly, those "rivets" are actually bolts with a head that breaks off when tightened for security reasons. I have gently taped them with a sharp chisel and they turn easily and can be removed with fingers, not even tight and with this method, they are reusable.

#7 DPDISXR4Ti

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Posted 26 January 2004 - 09:12 AM

Thanks for the input XSNRG!

#8 electryc_monk

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Posted 26 January 2004 - 09:58 AM

when we stripped a J/Y car a few months back for interior parts the ignition swithch was removed with screwdriver only.

the plastic collumn came apart with phillips head screws and the ignition aluminum unit with its wiring connector just dropped right out IIRC and its sitting in the storage unit with the small selection of other stuff we got with it.

#9 thealleyboy

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Posted 26 January 2004 - 10:13 AM

Brad:

Let us know the details on that 88...

The ones I have done were on 86-87 medels, so there may be differences.

Ken:

I think you are correct about the switch not being directly interchangeble. But with the help of a wiring diagram, it's possible to switch parts/connectors to make the newer one work.

X:

I didn't know that about that fastener. I'll try your non-drilling method next time.

Monk:

I'll betcha your ignition switch is a replacement. I think they used those special fasteners to prevent theft.

John

#10 DPDISXR4Ti

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Posted 01 February 2004 - 11:50 PM

Thanks to XSNRG for the info on those screws that look like rivets! Using a good quality pointed punch and hammer, I was gradually able to get the screws rotating out. One suggestion in hindsight, get them both loosened together rather than taking one all the way out first and then going after the other. The second screw took way longer since the assembly was flopping and rotating all over the place.

I haven't yet determined if this switch will swap into the Brat readily. I can tell you that the 5 wires coming off the back of the switch are a heavier gauge than the ones found on the Brat. They're all black with either a white, yellow, blue, or red stripe; the 5th one is solid black.

#11 GeneralDisorder

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Posted 02 February 2004 - 01:08 AM

I don't think it will work on the Brat. I will tell you how to remove the one on your Brat tho - don't even mess with the headless bolts - just remove the four nuts at the rear of the assembly where it bolts to the steering column, and slip the whole unit off. A decent pair of needle nose pliers will do it. I did the last one with a leatherman.

Oh - grab the spring loaded wires for the tilt mechanism with some pliers, and pull on them to slip them off the column - makes it much easier to work on.

Take the ign. lock to a smith and have it repaired - should cost around $20 - $30. This way your door key remains the same too...

GD




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