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valve adjustment?


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17 replies to this topic

#1 bgambino

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Posted 14 July 2009 - 07:46 PM

Hey guys

Does a 2002 Legacy GT 2.5 non turbo need its valves adjusted?

#2 Qman

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Posted 14 July 2009 - 11:42 PM

Hey guys

Does a 2002 Legacy GT 2.5 non turbo need its valves adjusted?


They are adjustable. They do recommend adjusting them every 30K or so I believe. .008/.010 is the recommended adjustment.

#3 hohieu

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Posted 15 July 2009 - 01:57 PM

Hmm.. what's a Legacy GT without the turbo? 2nd engine on this thing?

In any case, they're screw adjusting type with 105K-mile intervals. I did mine at around 135K miles and they were all pretty close to specifications, which can be found on a sticker on the underside of the hood.

I would wait until you need to replace the valve cover gaskets and spark plug well seals and do everything at one time.

#4 Qman

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Posted 15 July 2009 - 04:09 PM

Hmm.. what's a Legacy GT without the turbo?


A turd!

#5 bgambino

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Posted 16 July 2009 - 09:40 PM

thanks guys
does anyone have a link to instructions on "how to" ?
maybe an end wrench article?
does this have the shims and buckets like the later 90's OB's?

#6 2.5GL

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Posted 17 July 2009 - 12:34 AM

In any case, they're screw adjusting type with 105K-mile intervals.


What he said^^^

#7 bgambino

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Posted 19 July 2009 - 05:37 PM

Hmm.. what's a Legacy GT without the turbo? 2nd engine on this thing?

In any case, they're screw adjusting type with 105K-mile intervals. I did mine at around 135K miles and they were all pretty close to specifications, which can be found on a sticker on the underside of the hood.

I would wait until you need to replace the valve cover gaskets and spark plug well seals and do everything at one time.


screw adjusting type?...not the shim bucket arrangement in the 98 OB 2.5??
Is this anything like my first suby...my gutless but reliable 1980 DL 1.6 overhead valve engine..it had lock nuts that you would crack loose and then use a screw driver to make the adjustment...pretty easy. If this has the shim/bucket deal, I'll take it to a mechanic
And is it 105k or 30 k intervals,,,we seem to have differing facts here.

Edited by bgambino, 19 July 2009 - 05:38 PM.
add a sentance


#8 2.5GL

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Posted 19 July 2009 - 06:05 PM

There is some concern about a 2002 non turbo GT. Subaru did not make a turbo Legacy GT until '05. That said, it is a SOHC 2.5 which should have a valve adjustment about every 100,000 miles. Chances are you will be into the valve covers replacing gaskets far sooner than that. Even though you don't see a leak, the spark plug pipes through the heads fill with oil. Next time you do a "Tune-up" (Fuel and air filters, spark plugs: recommended every 30,000 miles) you'll pull the plug wires and likely see a collection of oil on the wires after you pull them out. Since you'll probably replace the gaskets at this point, now would be a good time to do the valve adjustment. And yes, like your EA71, small slotted screwdriver and a 10mm wrench. I believe the other post in here stated .008 intake/.010 exhaust. I would double check that figure, as I am not 100% certain.

Edited by 2.5GL, 19 July 2009 - 06:07 PM.
structure


#9 msmithmmx

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Posted 19 July 2009 - 06:47 PM

I was just about to post this question and I was beat to it. Unable to find the specification. Where do you take the feeler gauge to? Mine have a little rocking movement.

#10 jermany755

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Posted 20 July 2009 - 08:54 AM

You take the measurement under the adjustment screw somewhere. I believe you have to have the driver's side cam gear at TDC when you take the measurements for cylinder 1, turn it 90 degrees for cylinder 2, etc. My memory is fuzzy on the exact procedure so don't take my word for it. I have the service manual at home for my '01 rs which should be the same as it's also SOHC 2.5L. I'll post up diagrams and instructions when I get off work. Probably about 5:00 pst.

#11 bgambino

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Posted 21 July 2009 - 10:57 AM

You take the measurement under the adjustment screw somewhere. I believe you have to have the driver's side cam gear at TDC when you take the measurements for cylinder 1, turn it 90 degrees for cylinder 2, etc. My memory is fuzzy on the exact procedure so don't take my word for it. I have the service manual at home for my '01 rs which should be the same as it's also SOHC 2.5L. I'll post up diagrams and instructions when I get off work. Probably about 5:00 pst.


Thanks 2.5 and jermany
I said "non-turbo" because I was not sure if there was a turbo that year
Yes SOHC
I am surprised a manual adjustment has to be made...I thought the wave over the years was to go with hydraulic lifters thus no need for adjustment

Looking forward to the diagrams

BTW....my DOHC 96 2.5 does not have these adjusters...so this seems like a move backwards in design...

#12 Qman

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Posted 21 July 2009 - 01:22 PM

Thanks 2.5 and jermany
I said "non-turbo" because I was not sure if there was a turbo that year
Yes SOHC
I am surprised a manual adjustment has to be made...I thought the wave over the years was to go with hydraulic lifters thus no need for adjustment

Looking forward to the diagrams

BTW....my DOHC 96 2.5 does not have these adjusters...so this seems like a move backwards in design...


Not really a backwards move. The bucket type shim/lifter is a pain to get right. Especially if you are changing cams. Twice as much work to set them up. That is also the only year that they were hydraulic(IIRC).

#13 jermany755

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Posted 21 July 2009 - 01:56 PM

Hey sorry I didn't get the diagrams up yesterday. I was busy doing my own valve adjustment. =p I was a bit off on the procedure though. When the arrow on the driver's side cam is pointed straight up it's TDC for cylinder 1. Make your adjustment on cylinder one now. Turn it 90 degrees clockwise and it's TDC for cylinder 3. Make your adjustment. Straight down is cylinder 2, and pointing left is cylinder 4. So basically if you start with the arrow pointing up, you'll adjust both passenger side cylinders first and then both drivers side. The layout is as such:

front of car
----
2 1
4 3
----
back of car

You take the measurement directly under the adjustment screw and I'll try and get the diagram up tonight. Peace!


Edit: Oh ya and I did my adjustment with the engine out of the car so I didn't have to deal with this, but apparently you need to take the exhaust valve measurements from under the car to get the feeler gauge at the correct angle. Just something to look forward to.

Edited by jermany755, 21 July 2009 - 02:00 PM.


#14 hohieu

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Posted 21 July 2009 - 03:01 PM

Yes, you'll have abs of steel by the time your'e finished. If you have difficulty finding TDC, stick a long ratchet extension inside the corresponding spark plug hole to verify piston position.

#15 msmithmmx

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Posted 23 July 2009 - 05:39 AM

Hey sorry I didn't get the diagrams up yesterday. I was busy doing my own valve adjustment. =p I was a bit off on the procedure though. When the arrow on the driver's side cam is pointed straight up it's TDC for cylinder 1. Make your adjustment on cylinder one now. Turn it 90 degrees clockwise and it's TDC for cylinder 3. Make your adjustment. Straight down is cylinder 2, and pointing left is cylinder 4. So basically if you start with the arrow pointing up, you'll adjust both passenger side cylinders first and then both drivers side. The layout is as such:

front of car
----
2 1
4 3
----
back of car

You take the measurement directly under the adjustment screw and I'll try and get the diagram up tonight. Peace!


Edit: Oh ya and I did my adjustment with the engine out of the car so I didn't have to deal with this, but apparently you need to take the exhaust valve measurements from under the car to get the feeler gauge at the correct angle. Just something to look forward to.


Is .008 intake/.010 exhaust correct?

#16 jermany755

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Posted 23 July 2009 - 08:47 AM

Ya that seems to be the consensus on all the forums I read. Odd since the service manual spec is about twice that gap. Mine are at 0.006 and 0.008 cause that's what Delta Cams told me I should use for my re-grinds. :banana:

#17 hohieu

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Posted 23 July 2009 - 09:59 AM

Specs are given in metric and standard units, which may have led to the confusion. According to the factory service manual:

Intake: .20 mm (+/- .02); .00790" (+/- .0008")
Exhaust: .25 mm (+/- .02); .0098" (+/- .0008")

So yes, around .008"/.010", intake/exhaust.

#18 jermany755

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Posted 23 July 2009 - 01:59 PM

Lol oops. Ya I was definately remembering wrong for that reason. My mind holds onto things like a caulender.




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