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EA-81 Gear Linkage Bushings P/Ns?


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4 replies to this topic

#1 casm

casm

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Posted 05 August 2009 - 04:16 PM

As requested - part numbers for the gear linkage bushings responsible for EA-81 shifter slop. If anyone has them, I'd appreciate it if you could toss them my way. Thanks!

#2 s'ko

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Posted 05 August 2009 - 05:13 PM

Before the BRAT met it's demise, I was working on a shifter set up using an inline ball joint from McMaster Carr. I was going to drill through the current shifter pivot hole so that the inline ball joint can be secured and then I was going to modify the existing shifter by cutting off the pivot point off and welding a tube w/a nut at the bottom.

For the shift rod collar can be replaced by a 1/2 OD schedule 40 pipe.
you will need to grind the seam weld to get it to fit over the shift rod. There is still a little slop there, but it's a lot tighter than the stock worn out shift rod collar.

Here is the stock number for the inline joint 8412K12.

BW

#3 GeneralDisorder

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Posted 05 August 2009 - 06:35 PM

EA81 shifter slop is not really caused by the bushings, and frankly they rarely need replacement - I just grind 1/16" off the steel sleeve that sets how tight the two ears clamp down on the bushings to tighten them up a bit.

The issue, as s'ko pointed out, is the shift rod/sleeve interface. I have a been through a couple of fixes for this - my most recent is in this post:

http://www.ultimates...ead.php?t=86901

I recently had the opportunity to improve upon this method - I had to replace the 4 speed in my lifted wagon and during the process I decided to change to my "version 2" slop fix as outlined in my above post. I went the next level this time and installed a second locking bolt at a different angle - in this case I had already drilled the shift rod and sleeve for a 3/8" bolt several years back when I did one of my first "clamp style" version 1 slop fixes. Being already larger, I had to go with a 7/16 thread for the main bolt. I then drilled and tapped for a 5mm socket head cap screw at a different angle to help lock the sleeve from pivoting on the 7/16" bolt.

I have yet to drive the wagon with this installed as I'm building some new lift components for it, but it feels very solid and I used no new parts in the process. Just off-the-shelf components. I also removed a bit of metal from the bushing ear sleeve as I mentioned above to tighten the rubber bushings and I moved the pivot point of the shifter up by 3/4" to give the shifter a bit less throw and get back some height that it lost with the lift. You can see the where I cut and welded a section of steel rod into the pivot point and moved the shift rod/sleeve section down by the same amount.

Anyway - that's the version 3 slop fix as it sits now. I'll be able to fully evaluate it's performance after I'm able to drive it for a while. I'm planning to take it to the show this year.

GD

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#4 Greenley

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Posted 05 August 2009 - 10:26 PM

I have a been through a couple of fixes for this - my most recent is in this post:

http://www.ultimates...ead.php?t=86901


I went from pure slop to an as new tightness, with this method.
A+ stuff.

#5 casm

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Posted 06 August 2009 - 09:22 AM

Thanks, guys. I'll fool with it this weekend and report back. I'm not quite at the bowl-of-oatmeal stage yet (that was my last Brat), but I do want to fix this since I'm looking at autocrossing the little bugger in the next few weeks.




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