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2 Idle/Choke Related Questions - EA82 - '88 4x4 GL Wagon
Posted 19 August 2009 - 01:51 PM
I am just troubleshooting my intermittent goofy idle/rough driving.
- CEL comes on here and there (sporadic)
- Runs better when the CEL is off (not much suprise there)
- On a cold start it won't idle the first time. It will start, then reach about 1500rpm's then drop down to 0 and stall within about 3 seconds. Second time I start it, she will stay at idle but seemingly low.
- Sometimes the overdrive won't 'kick' - like I stomp the pedal when going various speeds and there's no response...just a slow climb of the rpm's and the speed of course. However, sometimes it will blast off like a rocket...usually when the CEL is off.
I have cleaned out the MAF and top of the carb (where the choke is..?)before and the CEL went away for a bit but it has returned.
Yes it is a Hitachi Carb and Disty.
Rebuilt Tranny and front Diff last month (positive the downshift thing is combustion related).
Before I go buy new plugs/wires/rotor/cap/PCV/filters, I would like to know 2 details about things I have learned here that may be related
1. Is the Coolant Temp Sensor the wired plug on the passenger side of the radiator? If not where is it located on my engine? I would like to clean it.
2. I have read up and tried to clean out the IAC - Do I have to remove it to clean it properly? I have tried cleaning it by removing the hose but I can't get all of the way inside it. Any special advice on that one?
Thanks a bunch!
Posted 19 August 2009 - 09:10 PM
Clean the IAC - yes you have to remove it.
You can't clean the CTS - it is a thermistor and it is either good or bad. Test it's resistance at various temps and report them back to this post and I'll tell you if it's good. It is located on the left side of the manifold near the thermostat housing. It has a two-pin green plug.
Pull the codes from the computer and find out what it's complaining about or what it has complained about in the past. Likely you need a new CTS, clean the IAC properly, possibly clean the MAF, and replace the O2 sensor and you should be well on your way to a properly running SPFI system.
Posted 20 August 2009 - 08:14 AM
I don't know how to check the codes yet, but I am eager to try. Can you describe the connectors and where to look for the flashing light...or are they super obvious and right there? I understand the connectors are under the steering wheel to the left, but is that where I look for the flashing LED too?
"With NEITHER test connector connected, and the key in the ON (engine off) position, the light will display codes
that relate to starting and driving..."
Thanks a million again....
Posted 21 August 2009 - 09:31 AM
Posted 26 August 2009 - 03:16 PM
I am also going to take a crack at removing and cleaning the IAC today but it looks like I have to remove the power steering reservoir to get at the IAC screws. Looks like two bolts hold it on so that should be straightforward. Is there an easy way to drain the reservoir prior to removal or should I just get ready for the mess?
Posted 26 August 2009 - 06:08 PM
the error led is on the edge of the ecu, (bolted under the steering column), facing the driver seat, right in the middle of the box
Posted 27 August 2009 - 07:57 AM
Posted 14 September 2009 - 10:52 AM
I have yet to pull codes from it because I can't figure out the connectors in the engine properly. There is a white set that looks like they will go together and a green set that looks like they connect as well. There are two more sets (an orange and a black set) that will not connect together. With the key in the ON position, and neither the geen or white ones connected in the engine bay I still don't see anything flashing.
Any thoughts or suggestions?
Posted 14 September 2009 - 01:35 PM
Thanks a bunch. I got the IAC cleaned and it now idles much better...no fluctuation. It seems to drive smoother too. I will post the codes when I can get them properly but I am going to pull the CTS first and clean it up. I can see some scale/deposit around where it screws in.
What did you use to clean it, how did you clean it.
Posted 14 September 2009 - 01:59 PM
Posted 14 September 2009 - 05:37 PM
The 200 setting is too low for the sensor when it's cold. You need to click through the settings on the MM untill you get a reading. IIRC it's up around 2,000 Ohms (or maybe it's 20,000) when it's cold and it drops as it warms.
You should never be putting the probe's on the threaded "bolt part" of the sensor - that has nothing to do with it's reading. You need to test through the electrical connections on the green plug.
You should get a high reading cold, and a low reading warm and it's sounds like your MM is not auto-ranging so you WILL have to switch ranges on it to get a proper reading. I sugest back-probing the connector while it is installed and watch the reading as the engine warms. That will give you a proper idea of the range the CTS is reporting. You can't do more than a cursory inspection with a lighter as you cannot control the temp accurately enough to insure the resistance is low enough at 190 degrees. It may be that the sensor is "out of range" and isn't reporting a low enough resistance till it hits 250 degrees or higher - which is easily obtainable with a lighter but you have no way of knowing for sure.
Posted 22 September 2009 - 05:18 PM
I finally retrieved the codes...woo hoo! I got a 21 and a 31 (two dashes, one dot, then three dashes and one dot...then repeat over and over). According to the trouble codes listed here, that says:
21 Coolant Temperature Sensor or Circuit
31 Throttle Sensor or Circuit
I double checked the connector for the throttle sensor (on the side of the intake) and it seems fine.
Any suggestions where to go from here? Just buy those two sensors?
Posted 22 September 2009 - 05:44 PM
Posted 23 September 2009 - 08:00 AM
Posted 23 September 2009 - 08:32 AM
The other sensor code may be due to a bad connection at the sensor. Check the voltages on the sensor leads to see what that shows.
When you get more familiar with using your meter you will wonder how you got along without it.
Posted 23 September 2009 - 01:15 PM
Posted 23 September 2009 - 01:28 PM
I think you may need to get OEM parts for those things though they may be available from a parts store outlet.
Posted 25 September 2009 - 12:57 PM
Posted 27 September 2009 - 10:37 AM
I don't know why Subaru used the fancy version with the pigtail for SPFI models..........3-4 times the price:confused:
Buy a *bosch* style FI connector (IIRC #8550?) and splice it onto you're old CTSs' pigtail. Now it will plug right in.
Might be a better option than getting a used one.
as a side note, you should at least test the TPS first. It may have thrown a code for TPS as a result of being unable to control the idle due to the previuosly stuck IAC.
Posted 28 September 2009 - 03:30 PM
Posted 15 October 2009 - 05:30 PM
Posted 20 October 2009 - 07:57 AM
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