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Guest Message by DevFuse
 

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Rear diff stub axle question.


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11 replies to this topic

#1 Greenley

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Posted 19 August 2009 - 07:13 PM

I've got this LSD sitting here with the DOJ cups frozen to the stubs.

Tried everything from BFH, PB Blaster, heat,
tying cable off to a tree and winching, etc.

Can i remove the side covers as is, or do i need access to the E10 torx bolt to remove the stubs first?

#2 TheSubaruJunkie

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Posted 19 August 2009 - 07:26 PM

I would let it soak overnight Pete. Find a tub deep enough to submerge the entire diff, maybe try diesel.

Either that, or heat. Heat the outer cup and smack it real good with a hammer.

#3 bheinen74

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Posted 19 August 2009 - 07:31 PM

removing the side covers will do nothing really to get the stubs out.
I assume you drove the roll pins out on both. Y or N

pickel fork?

you will have to remove the axles to get to the torx bolt if its a clutch type lsd

-you cannot remove the stubs on the clutch type lsd without removing, or breaking the torx bolt-well you could cut thru the stub which cuts the bolt.
if its a vlsd then ther are circlips holding the stubs not the torx .

Edited by bheinen74, 19 August 2009 - 07:34 PM.


#4 Greenley

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Posted 19 August 2009 - 07:51 PM

I assume you drove the roll pins out on both. Y or N

Yes

pickel fork?

Yes

you will have to remove the axles to get to the torx bolt if its a clutch type lsd

It is, and that's what i needed to know.

I suppose a penetrating bath wouldn't hurt to try, but i think i'm gonna have to cut 'em off. I had enough torque on them to pull my wagon with the E-brake on.

#5 bheinen74

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Posted 19 August 2009 - 08:04 PM

spray pb blaster thru the roll pin holes, take a bigger hammer, get a punch, and hammer/punch along the outer part near where the roll pin goes thru. spray pblaster near the diff where the stubs stick out. the jolting action may allow the penetrate to sneak in where it is held up. also, try to smack the axles on towards the diff, and also hammer away from the diff- try both directions in an attempt to start it.

Edited by bheinen74, 19 August 2009 - 08:08 PM.


#6 Scott in Bellingham

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Posted 19 August 2009 - 08:18 PM

torch works for me , get them hot

#7 TheSubaruJunkie

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Posted 19 August 2009 - 08:22 PM

Try heat. A small propane torch will work just fine. You want to heat the outer cup which should let it expand. And a good whack with a hammer will jar it loose.

Penetrating oil & any vibration at all will also help.

#8 john in KY

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Posted 20 August 2009 - 12:29 AM

Seal one side of the roll pin hole with a golf T. From other side, fill hole with Kroil penetrating oil. After a few days soaking, it will come off.

#9 WoodsWagon

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Posted 20 August 2009 - 09:59 PM

If you take the boot off the cv and pull the retaining ring out of the cv cup, you can drop the diff out with the cups on it. Then, clean the grease out of the cups, you will see a sheet metal plug in the bottom of the cv cup. Use a chisel to mutilate the crap out of the sheetmetal and punch a hole in the middle of it. This will give you acces to the torx bolt. I use a 6pt 1/4" drive deep metric socket, 9mm or somthing odd like that, pound it in through the jagged hole and it gets the bolt out every time. The bolts are tight, really tight. Using an impact gun with some reducing adapters down to the 1/4" socket size is advisable, but go easy on the gun.

I've blown up a lot of diffs, and in NH the cups are always rusted to the shafts.

#10 Gloyale

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Posted 21 August 2009 - 09:19 AM

If you take the boot off the cv and pull the retaining ring out of the cv cup, you can drop the diff out with the cups on it. Then, clean the grease out of the cups, you will see a sheet metal plug in the bottom of the cv cup. Use a chisel to mutilate the crap out of the sheetmetal and punch a hole in the middle of it. This will give you acces to the torx bolt. I use a 6pt 1/4" drive deep metric socket, 9mm or somthing odd like that, pound it in through the jagged hole and it gets the bolt out every time. The bolts are tight, really tight. Using an impact gun with some reducing adapters down to the 1/4" socket size is advisable, but go easy on the gun.


+1 to all this. get down to an empty cup and pry out the sheet metal cover at the bottom.

Using an actual E10 socket makes it easier. Available through Cornwell tools, in deep 1/4 drive. Comes with a *gearwrench* branding on it:confused:

#11 Greenley

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Posted 21 August 2009 - 01:26 PM

+1 to all this. get down to an empty cup and pry out the sheet metal cover at the bottom.

Using an actual E10 socket makes it easier. Available through Cornwell tools, in deep 1/4 drive. Comes with a *gearwrench* branding on it:confused:


I forgot all about that cover inside the cup, helluva idea.

Last time, Zap shipped me the proper socket,
this time i'm gonna have to buy it.
Gets more use than i would have ever imagined.

#12 Gloyale

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Posted 21 August 2009 - 04:02 PM

Last time, Zap shipped me the proper socket,
this time i'm gonna have to buy it.
Gets more use than i would have ever imagined.


Socket part #

Gearwrench 80196

Ordered through Cornwell Tools




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