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2" lift questions.


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16 replies to this topic

#1 hardtail_pride

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Posted 20 August 2009 - 01:47 AM

I would like to make my own 2" lift, after seeing pics like these makes me wonder what is so hard about it? I know camber comes into question, but all the blocks on the front strut look like the same size square piping. And of course the lengthening of the steering shaft and alignment need to be done too. Am i missing something? I know i snaked these pics, if the original pic owner doesn't want them on my post let me know. :confused:

#2 SoobieDoo

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Posted 20 August 2009 - 09:55 AM

There is nothing hard about it. That's the beauty of this lift...it's cheap and easy. That's why most of the NW Subaru offroad/offroo'd club has them! The only "tricky" part is drilling the holes for the correct offset. Ask one eye, I think it's 15 degrees.

#3 bheinen74

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Posted 20 August 2009 - 10:29 AM

You don't need a steering extension on this type lift.

Also, the rear strut mount needs a "X brace" welded in there.......to make it right, or an "H" brace or a "N" brace, etc..

without the brace welded, the | | will end up like a / / or \ \

Edited by bheinen74, 20 August 2009 - 10:32 AM.


#4 hardtail_pride

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Posted 20 August 2009 - 12:47 PM

Wow im really excited now. This is an at home lift kit i feel comfortable making! No welding required! Im a little fuzzy on the drilling the offset right. Anynoe care to explain a bit?

#5 gwilson87

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Posted 20 August 2009 - 12:53 PM

give me a call this weekend and I can help you out. i got a few diagrams and stuff for when I make my 2" lift also. We can experiment with yours and then do mine :grin:

#6 3eyedwagon

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Posted 20 August 2009 - 03:16 PM

As you probably figured out from the pictures; you need (6) 2" x 2" blocks to lift the front struts, and (4) pieces of 1/4" x 2" flatbar 4" in length for the rear strut extensions.

The front blocks need to adjust for camber, so in addition to lowering the mounting point of the top of the strut; they also need to move it inboard. About 15* is what is needed. Some cars vary.

For the front (6) blocks you will need (4) cut at a 75* angle (meaning 15* off of 90*, or 15* off of a "straight cut"). These blocks should look like this // from the side. You will need (2) of these blocks for each side of the car. They need centered holes one the top and bottom, that is what makes up your 15*.

The (2) other blocks need to be cut at a straight 90* angle. They should look like this [] from the side. You will need (1) of these for each side of the car. These blocks are necessary because a 2" x 2" angled block won't fit in-between the strut, and body on forward most mounting bolt of each front strut. However, you still need to account for the 15*. So you have drill your holes spaced appropriately to make up your 15*.


All of your blocks should be cut about 1" wide. Meaning they should be 2 " x 2" square tubing cut into 1" slivers. If you cut the blocks much wider than that, you will have to grind corners to get them fit in this small area correctly, and move the top of the strut inward. If you fail to do so, they will end up moving the strut at a F********* up angle, and adjust all sorts of crap you don't want to adjust. Then you will wear tires like crazy, complain alot, and then idiots who don't know what they are talking about will tell the people who do know what they are talking about that this lift "isn't a good idea".


The rears are very simple. You need (4) pieces of 1/4" x 2" flatbar cut to 4" in length. Lighter material will work. We've used a wide variety of flatbar, on a number of various vehicles. Drill centered holes about 3/4" inboard from each end of the 4" of flat bar. The rear strut bolts are large, about 5/8", so drill your holes large enough for the bolt to pass through.
You then need to bend the flatbar in the center to about a 45* angle. A little less will work. If you use lighter material, heating may not be necessary. With heavier material, you should use heat to get the bend abrupt. Bolt them in, and install your strut turned 180* around. Done.

You don't need to install an H brace on the rear strut lift. The people who seem to bring up all the problems with these lifts seem to most often be the ones who have never done one. I've built more of these lifts than I care to remember, installed a few of those, and both wheeled, and seen these lifts wheeled the ever living piss out of. If you bolt everything down tight, they don't swivel like one would think. If you have access to a welder, and some spare time, and metal: Go ahead, and weld in an H brace. But these lifts (WITHOUT AN "X BRACE") have lived through ripping struts apart, and not done // or \\. The nice thing is it's easy access, so you can do it later. But, it sounds to me like you don't, and if that is the case; don't worry about it.

#7 SoobieDoo

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Posted 20 August 2009 - 03:45 PM

Ask one eye, I think it's 15 degrees.


...or Will !!! :eek:

#8 one eye

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Posted 20 August 2009 - 11:35 PM

I would like to make my own 2" lift, after seeing pics like these makes me wonder what is so hard about it? I know camber comes into question, but all the blocks on the front strut look like the same size square piping. And of course the lengthening of the steering shaft and alignment need to be done too. Am i missing something? I know i snaked these pics, if the original pic owner doesn't want them on my post let me know. :confused:


Use the crap out of them!!!! Its not to hard to do there are a few other threads about this style lift like, Marcus56 is getting lifted, there is a lot of good info on that thread............... BTW there is no lenthening of the Streering shaft, everthing is stock, there are just 2" blocks in the front and rear and all the axles take up the needed space............

3eyedwagon has put more than enough info up there, He is the one who came up with this breed of lift in our group, so he is the man on this!!!! Very well put Will!!!!! :)


Jeff

Edited by one eye, 20 August 2009 - 11:39 PM.


#9 r_kirky

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Posted 22 August 2009 - 02:24 PM

most of our lifts don't have the offset. Mine is just straight blocks and I haven't noticed anything different. I think with just two inches it doesn't matter that much.:)

#10 bratman18

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Posted 22 August 2009 - 03:57 PM

This is what I have and have used several times!! Works great, very cheap, and easy to make, can't beat it!!!

#11 tallwelder81

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Posted 30 August 2011 - 06:50 PM

i understand this thread was last posted on when ronald reagan was still in office, but i am gambling. does anyone near ME <seattle-ish, southeast suburbs> have this type of lift on their rig?

i really want a 2" lift. sjr doesnt seem to respond, i know hes a busy guy. and he doesnt list anything under 4inch these days anyhow.

spanky pete agreed to sell me his 4" AA lift. and he already knows that im aiming for a 2inch, preferably. im a man of my word, i told him i would buy it, and i am a man of my word. im sure its a nice quality design. AA has a strong reputation. i figure ill just run the AA 4" for a couple months, and in the meantime, slowly get myself a 2" package ready to throw in.

i want to run the usual 27x8.5x14s. those michelin LTX m/s tires look real nice also. im of the philosophy that making 95% of your build choices to favor hardcore offroading, which is, at the most, for anyone who doesnt TRAILER their trail rig, 10% of the miles it drives, more likely about 2%, seems ridiculous. and with the pacific northwest, particularly the cascade foothills i live in, being a soggy, dripping mudhole half the year, aqua channels in my tires sound like a helluva plan.
call me a sissy all you like, its ok. but when i feel that total loss of steering-control while doing 50-65mph on the freeway, my heart locks and my balls turn to icecubes. hydroplaning is scary. lifting my rig, im guessing, will not help controlling hydroplaning at high speeds <by 4wd brat speed standards>.

so yea, point being, im a huge believer in trail tires that are as freeway friendly as possible. swamp lugs dont sound like much fun.

#12 3eyedwagon

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Posted 30 August 2011 - 07:34 PM

How hard are you planning on wheeling this thing? The reason I ask is that I have a set of the thinner (3/16" or so) front blocks already made. They'd just need to be installed. All they've been doing for the last year or so is sitting on my outside table collecting rust. They would be great if you aren't planning on wheeling a ton, and there are a few sets out there made from the same piece of square tubing as this that have survived for quite awhile. Anywho, at the minimum, they would be a great template for you to make your own, or if you really really want you could get me the the thicker material, and I could cut/drill them for you when I get a slow day.

The rears would require a set of stock struts for me to lengthen. It can be done other ways, but, I prefer to lengthen the struts.

This really isn't that tough to do man. You could find any fab shop, and they could make them for you pretty quick like. :)

#13 tallwelder81

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Posted 30 August 2011 - 09:22 PM

i dont know where sauk city is.
so i dont know how id get you the material.
BUT 3/16th would be strong enough for my needs anyhow.

i just need the full meal deal, front AND rear lift.
and id like the SLANTED design. the 17degree,
15 degree, whatever, ive heard both numbers now.
i think even 10 degrees would serve the purpose,
considering the fact that a few people have clearly
worked up the zero-slant blocks pretty hard, for many miles.

i guess sjr is not going to respond to my email. thats okay,
he probably thinks im a flake, and with fair reason. long story,
not really relevent to this post.

im going to buy that 4" from spanky pete.
3eyed wagon, if you are willing to deal with that whole
2" lift, front AND rear, in 3/16th, WITH some slant, i
would like to buy it. i do lots of fabricating myself, but
never done anything that held my car in one piece when going
down the freeway. if youve done it before, truth is, id rather
lean on your experience, than lean on my luck.

throw me out a price.
maybe if sjr eventually responds, i can
just get the front strut tower blocks, because they look hella
cool. and i like the whole idea of a ONE piece strut tower,
versus 3 seperate rectangle blocks.

#14 3eyedwagon

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Posted 30 August 2011 - 10:42 PM

i dont know where sauk city is.
so i dont know how id get you the material.
BUT 3/16th would be strong enough for my needs anyhow.

i just need the full meal deal, front AND rear lift.
and id like the SLANTED design. the 17degree,
15 degree, whatever, ive heard both numbers now.
i think even 10 degrees would serve the purpose,
considering the fact that a few people have clearly
worked up the zero-slant blocks pretty hard, for many miles.

i guess sjr is not going to respond to my email. thats okay,
he probably thinks im a flake, and with fair reason. long story,
not really relevent to this post.

im going to buy that 4" from spanky pete.
3eyed wagon, if you are willing to deal with that whole
2" lift, front AND rear, in 3/16th, WITH some slant, i
would like to buy it. i do lots of fabricating myself, but
never done anything that held my car in one piece when going
down the freeway. if youve done it before, truth is, id rather
lean on your experience, than lean on my luck.

throw me out a price.
maybe if sjr eventually responds, i can
just get the front strut tower blocks, because they look hella
cool. and i like the whole idea of a ONE piece strut tower,
versus 3 seperate rectangle blocks.


I'm in Mt. Vernon Washington all the time. I should just put that for my profile.

I understand liking the idea of a one piece strut tower, and in a perfect world I would brace all of mine together. If you are looking for a cost effective way of doing it, the three square pieces is the way to go. It's super cheap, and has been proven effective on ALOT of vehicles now. Many of the NWWO cars have had this lift, and had the snot beat out of it with little problem. If you want something pretty, you can have it made. It will just cost you more.:-\

I answered most of your questions in the PM. They are the slanted blocks. The same exact blocks are on a few cars that have been beat pretty hard, so, Im confident they would work just fine.

If you want a hand, find a way to get parts to Jeff's house in Mt. Vernon, or, I can meet you in that area some time. This is my busy time of year, so, don't be offended if I'm hard to track down. I work seasonally, and I'm away from the computer for a few days at a time usually.

You'll need a set of rear struts to be lengthened, and whatever material you want the fronts made out of. If you like, I have the set I spoke of already.

Hope I can help you out.

#15 tallwelder81

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Posted 30 August 2011 - 11:28 PM

i dont care that much about pretty. but the sjr strut tops DO look sweet. im just saying.

my rig is in a lot better shape than those walker boys. and i aim to keep it that way. lol....

that being said, my brat has some rust, the carpet looks like i found it in a homeless guys camp, and it has a few spots of not-quite-matching primer.
also a crack across drivers side windshield, top to bottom. few minor golf ball type dings here and there. you know.
its not a show car, and its not a 200 dollar junkyard heap. its a decent looking, mildly abused survival rig.
and being that it IS my survival rig, that is why i want to stick with a very practical and strong design. no sky high lift, no overdone swamp tires. reliability is KEY.

so if you hang out in mt vernon, i guess its safe to assume you dont hail from the WISCONSIN sauk city.

consider me officially wanting your lift blocks. can you make the rest of the set? by which i mean, you specified having the FRONT gear. i want all of the pieces i need. i dont know HOW to raise the torsion bar. a couple friends agreee with my view, that theres an important item missing under that area.
up right under where the jumpseats would mount, there are 2 large nuts, maybe a 5/8 or 3/4 nut, welded to a roughly 4x7 1/8" backing plate, which is welded directly to the corrugated bed material. it looks like the torsion bar should somehow be attatched to that, i cant see what else it would be used for?? brats never had an underbed spare tire mount, did they?

#16 3eyedwagon

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Posted 31 August 2011 - 04:06 PM

that being said, my brat has some rust,

and being that it IS my survival rig, that is why i want to stick with a very practical and strong design. no sky high lift, no overdone swamp tires. reliability is KEY.


Oh man, sorry. I had no idea this was a Brat. This kit was kind of designed for the EA82s. Plenty of people have installed this kind of kit on EA81s (like your Brat), but, I wouldn't call it as reliable as I would on an EA82. It works ok on a wheeler where you expect to be replacing axles often, but, I really wouldn't consider it on a daily driver. The EA82s have longer axle shafts which generally allows more suspension lift than the EA81s. Like I've said, EA81s have had this done, but, I wouldn't consider it if you are looking for something "practical, strong, and RELIABLE".

This setup works really well on the EA82s....:-\

Sorry.

PS: Strut lengthening won't work for the back of your car either. You don't have struts. You have a torsion bar, and shocks....:)

You'll need to consider a full body 1 or 2" lift. Alot more work unfortunately...:mad:

#17 SmashedGlass

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Posted 08 September 2011 - 07:14 PM

Scott from SJR actually did respond to an email from me on the "no longer listed" 2 inch lift kit. He said there wasn't enough demand, but that he CAN still make them. :)




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