torque converter to drive plate bolts

[daddycoolj]

I'm taking the transmission out of a 95 obw everything is disconnected except the torque converter to drive plate bolts.

 

Looking at the ready to transplant transmission, I see the space in the bottom of the bellhousing that would give access to these bolts.

 

Under the car this space is blocked by the front carriage cross member and the steering rack.

 

How do I gain access to these bolts?

 

I'm thinking it will be best to get the torque converter out with the transmission.

[Gnuman]

there is a hard rubber plug at the top right hand side of the rear of the engine block, where the bell housing mates up with it. The bolts that connect these two pieces are 12mm heads. Personally, I use an offset box wrench to reach them as that is the easiest thing I have found to reach around the wiring and hoses in that area. I also use a 22mm socket on a breaker bar to turn the engine (bringing each bolt into position) and to hold the engine in place while turning the bolt. Once they are broken loose, they are very easy to turn and can be removed (ane replaced on reassembly) by hand for a good portion of the threads. Particularly if you have small and nimble fingers, this makes it a lot easier to not drop the bolts behind the flex plate (drive plate). Hope this helps!

[davebugs]

I see others are looking perhaps they will answer.

 

Look by the throttle body, there is a Black plastic plate. Remove the plate and turn the crank as necessary to get access.

[lmdew]

1/4" drive with a 6 point 12mm socket. Put an extension on the ratchet handle to get a little more force.

 

When they are all disconnected, push the TC back, it will move back a little over 1/8". Take a good note of its position when the TC is fully seated in the trans. It will help on the correct installation of the new one.

[davebugs]

1/4" drive with a 6 point 12mm socket. Put an extension on the ratchet handle to get a little more force.

 

When they are all disconnected, push the TC back, it will move back a little over 1/8". Take a good note of its position when the TC is fully seated in the trans. It will help on the correct installation of the new one.

 

I bought the Snap-on "roto ratchet" in 1/4 inch just for these bolts. Now Gearwrench makes a much cheaper set. I also stuf something in the hole incase I loose one - even when removing the bolts (not just for installation)

 

And do look around for TC seating instructions!

 

You'll want to have it seated properly or have an expensive repair and be pulling the engine again.

 

BTW A trick I use is I take a paint stick and draw a line from each bolt hole towards the center. This line I can see through the holes in the flexplate and makes finding/aligning that first bolt easier when reinstalling the bolts.

[The Scooby]

snap-on 12pt 12mm/14mm offset wrench. put it on the bolt and wack it with a rubber hammer. knocks them loose EVERY time.

[thenak]

I find it easieast to remove the throttle body (four bolts, and move out of the way, no need to remove cables, etc.) and the airs flow regulator on the passenger side of the intake manifold near the throttle body (at least I assume it is an air flow regulator).  There is a coolan hose in the back of that one to disconnect, the other in the front need not be pulled, just take out the three bolts securing it to the intake manifold and move it out of the way.  Also, helps to pull the vacuum hoses and onbolt the metal bracket holding the wire harness connectors.  May sound like a lot, but really isn't much work.  You can then get a breaker bar with a 6 point socket on the bolts through the access port quite easily.  position the bolt to the (slightl lower) left of the access port so that you can get leverage against the bell housing.  this will prevent rotation of the engine/flex plate and without the need for special tools to hold the crank shaft pulley or any such thing.