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Red Sedan Build , solid rear axle
#101
Posted 09 January 2010 - 04:07 PM
keep stock transaxle................. lower center gravity , better clearence mid car, less of a aproach angle , less weight, less parts, less engineering, only one driveshaft to have made not 2
#102
Posted 10 January 2010 - 12:08 AM
#103
Posted 10 January 2010 - 01:14 AM
#104
Posted 10 January 2010 - 01:31 PM
Lower the T case an inch or so.The input drive shaft looks to be at a bit to steep of an angle for reliable power delivery.From what ive heard a 5-10* angle on the drive shaft is about all thats practical before it starts binding up.10* of free standing angle is a bit extreme for U joints.It may work but it would probally wear out really fast.
On the other hand,the U joint is just spinning with no up or down travel so it might work...Again I don't know how long U joints will last.
#105
Posted 10 January 2010 - 05:40 PM
been lookin at the car and lookin at different options, pros and cons heres a list............................................................................2nd tranfer case Lower gears,weaker front diff studs because Im using a rear Diff Higher center of gravity as the engine and transaxle would be in stock height more weight with 2nd transfercase and frame to mount it,also second crossmember for engine support and 3 drive shafts instead of 1
keep stock transaxle................. lower center gravity , better clearence mid car, less of a aproach angle , less weight, less parts, less engineering, only one driveshaft to have made not 2
if you just go solid in the rear without a t-case (keep stock transaxle) as front wheel drivers, unless you lock it, you are still going to be limited to doing the same things a regular lifted soob with a welded rear does...
I originally thought I'd keep the stock fuel tank, but it's have to sit so high to do so, you lose your low center of gravity advantage...
When Chris designed mine, it was basically, set the ride height and then engineer the stuff around it so it will work at that height... another guy in my club has a jeep with 35's under it, not sure how much lift, but I'me a good 12" shorter than he is (top of vehicle). a lot of that is inherent in the design of the soob body, but it helps... I can still duck under trees pretty well....
#106
Posted 11 January 2010 - 08:16 AM
you have stayed "easy" for the last few cars..:lol:come on scott..:grin:cheers, brian
EASY you dont remember that silver car that saved your ( Dodge) 2-1/2 years ago??, that thing wasnt "easy" has a 2nd tranny and transfercase , 9" lift and modified body, come on Brian Ill challenge you to a build off and we will meet up this summer and compete our 2 soobies side by side and see what happens , I realy like my ole white car just want somthin a little better that will not break




#107
Posted 11 January 2010 - 11:07 AM


A little "friendly" competition never hurts.
#108
Posted 11 January 2010 - 11:26 AM
BUILD OFF!!
(chanting)

#109
Posted 11 January 2010 - 02:10 PM
i was just responding to "giving up eaayy?":lol:
cheers, brian
oh, and by the way, as long as it is FRIENDLY competition...i'll think about it.

EASY you dont remember that silver car that saved your ( Dodge) 2-1/2 years ago??, that thing wasnt "easy" has a 2nd tranny and transfercase , 9" lift and modified body, come on Brian Ill challenge you to a build off and we will meet up this summer and compete our 2 soobies side by side and see what happens , I realy like my ole white car just want somthin a little better that will not break
#110
Posted 13 January 2010 - 10:02 PM
been lookin at the car and lookin at different options, pros and cons heres a list............................................................................2nd tranfer case Lower gears,weaker front diff studs because Im using a rear Diff Higher center of gravity as the engine and transaxle would be in stock height more weight with 2nd transfercase and frame to mount it,also second crossmember for engine support and 3 drive shafts instead of 1
keep stock transaxle................. lower center gravity , better clearence mid car, less of a aproach angle , less weight, less parts, less engineering, only one driveshaft to have made not 2
OK decided which direction to go, I didnt really like the Nissan case its so tall and would need a framework to mount up , so I went out and picked up a Toyota 86 4runner 4x4 tranny with transfercase , checked it out tonight

Heres the Subaru clutch disc next to the Toyota one, the Toyota one has a bigger hole with more splines , subarus on the right, also the subby preasure plate has a larger throwout bearing and "hole"

subbie center bearing slipped onto the Toyota pilot same size...

Edited by Scott in Bellingham, 13 January 2010 - 10:13 PM.
#112
Posted 13 January 2010 - 11:25 PM
maybe throw some 4.7:1 gears in that tcase while it's out.
#113
Posted 13 January 2010 - 11:32 PM
#114
Posted 14 January 2010 - 02:47 AM
So are you planning on using the Toyota clutch disc with the subaru flywheel and pressure plate? Also, will you be doing the welding on the bellhousing? I've heard from the TIG guys in my class that cast aluminum is a real pain to weld.
yes and yes
#115
Posted 14 January 2010 - 03:29 AM
#116
Posted 14 January 2010 - 12:15 PM
C'mon 4.7:1 gearing!!
-TJD
#117
Posted 14 January 2010 - 04:06 PM
yes and yes
awesome. Are you going to be using TIG or a MIG with a spool gun?
#118
Posted 14 January 2010 - 04:40 PM
awesome. Are you going to be using tig or a mig with a spool gun?
tig
#119
Posted 16 January 2010 - 05:56 PM
#120
Posted 19 January 2010 - 02:08 PM
How about the possibility of using the bellhousing portion of an EJ automatic?
I got one its deeper then the toyota, and positions the starter back farther, maybe would work with a automatic starter not sure
#121
Posted 01 February 2010 - 09:09 AM

#122
Posted 01 February 2010 - 06:51 PM
What kind of struts would you use with that setup? I assume they would be the only factor limiting flex.

#123
Posted 01 February 2010 - 07:42 PM
#124
Posted 01 February 2010 - 10:53 PM


#125
Posted 03 February 2010 - 07:38 AM
heres what Ive been thinkin for the rear flexizer , just a little mockup I did on a old Datsun model
if you don't move your fuel tank, that'll make you sit pretty high....
some good info....
http://www.alaska4x4...ead.php?t=25022
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