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Guest Message by DevFuse
 

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Antifreeze flowing out my weber carb.


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20 replies to this topic

#1 hoverman37

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Posted 03 September 2009 - 12:13 AM

I need some help. I will try to make a long story short, I am on my 3rd engine in the last 6 months on my hovercraft Ea82 CARB.. First one I bought, apparently had been run really hot because when I changed the head gaskets I stripped out every bolt but one when I was re-torquing them.. 2nd Engine was a Turbo that ran good, when I bought the car,but i could not make it fit with the turbo unit in my Hovercraft. 3rd engine, I swapped for the turbo I had bought. I replaced the oil pan gasket, valve gaskets and intake manifold gaskets and I added a weber carb. I fired it up tonight and it was blowing coolent out the exhaust. I checked all connections and hoses and tried again, thinking maybe there was some moisture in the gas. I added some coolent to the radiator and while I was doing this i noticed that water was now flowing up and out my new Weber Carburetor!! What the Heck is going on? I checked the oil and it is a milkshake now. When I changed the oil when I bought the engine, it was dirty, but didn't have any antifreeze in it so I assumed everything was good. I have now run the moter for about 1 minute and its a mess. Any ideas? I pulled the intake maniford and the ports are full of antifreeze and spilling out. is my intake manifold cracked inside? I am wondering because this is the same manifold i used on Engine #1 and it was also blowing water, but the heads were blown so I thought the heads were the problem.


Sorry i dragged this out, please help.
Tks Scott

#2 GeneralDisorder

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Posted 03 September 2009 - 12:22 AM

The carb base is heated - there is an open coolant passage under the carb that MUST be sealed or coolant will run straight into the manifold.

GD

#3 Twitch de la Brat

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Posted 03 September 2009 - 12:40 AM

I need some help. I will try to make a long story short, I am on my 3rd engine in the last 6 months on my hovercraft Ea82 CARB.. First one I bought, apparently had been run really hot because when I changed the head gaskets I stripped out every bolt but one when I was re-torquing them.. 2nd Engine was a Turbo that ran good, when I bought the car,but i could not make it fit with the turbo unit in my Hovercraft. 3rd engine, I swapped for the turbo I had bought. I replaced the oil pan gasket, valve gaskets and intake manifold gaskets and I added a weber carb. I fired it up tonight and it was blowing coolent out the exhaust. I checked all connections and hoses and tried again, thinking maybe there was some moisture in the gas. I added some coolent to the radiator and while I was doing this i noticed that water was now flowing up and out my new Weber Carburetor!! What the Heck is going on? I checked the oil and it is a milkshake now. When I changed the oil when I bought the engine, it was dirty, but didn't have any antifreeze in it so I assumed everything was good. I have now run the moter for about 1 minute and its a mess. Any ideas? I pulled the intake maniford and the ports are full of antifreeze and spilling out. is my intake manifold cracked inside? I am wondering because this is the same manifold i used on Engine #1 and it was also blowing water, but the heads were blown so I thought the heads were the problem.


Sorry i dragged this out, please help.
Tks Scott


This is most likely your problem (in red) :-p

The carb base is heated - there is an open coolant passage under the carb that MUST be sealed or coolant will run straight into the manifold.

GD


And I soooo thought you would've jumped on this one...

But I agree with GD, the intake needs to be sealed completely or else you
will have this ^^^^^ problem.

Twitch

#4 hoverman37

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Posted 03 September 2009 - 01:51 PM

The carb base is heated - there is an open coolant passage under the carb that MUST be sealed or coolant will run straight into the manifold.

GD


Is the coolant passage on the manifold or the Carb?

#5 bheinen74

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Posted 03 September 2009 - 02:29 PM

on the manifold.

unbolt your carby, take off the mount plate for it, and you will see an inlet recess at the front. this needs to be JB welded shut, or tig welded.

#6 GeneralDisorder

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Posted 03 September 2009 - 02:31 PM

Yeah - poke a bit of window screening down in the hole and fill it with JB weld. Should hold up fine under the adaptor plate.

GD

#7 bheinen74

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Posted 03 September 2009 - 02:39 PM

also you need to probably replace the small coolant hose going from driver side of block over to the intake passenger side near the thermo sensor. that small 1/4' id hose is usually like glass and will leak too.

#8 hoverman37

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Posted 03 September 2009 - 03:24 PM

also you need to probably replace the small coolant hose going from driver side of block over to the intake passenger side near the thermo sensor. that small 1/4' id hose is usually like glass and will leak too.


I will try this tonight, that you all very much for the help.

Last question, the only vacuum hose should be the on from the weber to the Dist. Correct?

Thanks Again for the help, this is a great forum.

Hoverman

#9 GeneralDisorder

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Posted 03 September 2009 - 04:18 PM

The lower port on the front of the Weber is for the EGR. It lowers combustion temps and helps to prevent exhaust valve burning - best to hook it up also.

GD

#10 akc

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Posted 08 September 2009 - 11:18 PM

Hey I am having a similar issue. altough my water is flowing under the carb but not out the top and it has also mixed with the oil. So I just seal off that passage for the water? (I too have a weber carb) was the water passage for the old carberator and the weber retro kit did not adequetly seal it off?

#11 GeneralDisorder

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Posted 08 September 2009 - 11:30 PM

was the water passage for the old carberator and the weber retro kit did not adequetly seal it off?


Bingo. The adaptors are notorious for that.

GD

#12 akc

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Posted 08 September 2009 - 11:36 PM

Thanks we were sure with the water in the oil it was the head gaskets. That makes me feel so much better. I saw the water leaking out the bottom of the carb yesterday. IT has really been sounding horrible (no wonder) Will fix that asap and hopefully (fingers crossed ) this will lick my problems. maybe then I can drive with the A/C on. (now that it is almost winter). Do you think the weber carb is worth it? or do you think the stock one was better? We did not install it and it seems to have some real issues. It does make it easier to work on the car though.

#13 GeneralDisorder

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Posted 08 September 2009 - 11:43 PM

Do you think the weber carb is worth it?


Don't think it - I KNOW it. Probably better than anyone else here.

or do you think the stock one was better? We did not install it and it seems to have some real issues.


Whatever issues it has pale in comparison to the EA82's Hitachi carb. Trust me. If you are having running issues you should make sure it was properly jetted for the engine.

It does make it easier to work on the car though.


That's just one of the many benefits to the Weber.

You could always sell the Weber and use the profits to swap over to the Single Point Fuel Injection (SPFI).

GD

#14 akc

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Posted 08 September 2009 - 11:53 PM

That is good to hear. I have not dealt with the hatachi and my spouse was wondering if these issues made it worth it. I will wonder no more. we really have not had many issues most with the carb ended up being because of a fusable link that was out.

this leak has made him a little cranky though cannot blame the guy he was working on my machine and it was not being very nice. and then he found the water in the oil. (no oil in the water though) when you are mad sometimes you say things that you regret later.

Will be very happy with my weber now. THANKS

#15 Flowmastered87GL

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Posted 09 September 2009 - 09:27 AM

with my EA82 I also JB welded up the coolant area in the top of the intake. I seem to recall that I had to slightly grind down the tube that came in so the adapter plate could sit level as well. I also had toyed with plugging off the coolant line TO it at the source with a clamp and vacuum plug... it didnt work. I ended up inserting a metal stud the size of the coolant line into it and clamping it in the middle. Kinda to keep the coolant from ever reaching the JB welded part. Not going to promise this is the best way, but it worked well for me after numerous failures of other types while rallying.

#16 akc

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Posted 09 September 2009 - 09:47 AM

I do have another question? can you just cut off the water from that port? or does it need to go through it still? In other words are you just blocking off one spot and does the water still go in there or could you just reroute the water line? (sorry I have not looked at it it was a question my spouse had when looking at it) I have been trying to find some coolant diagrams but have not been successful. I know they are out there somewhere.

I will pass on the info in the above post. anyone got any best sites for reading about the conversion?

#17 GeneralDisorder

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Posted 09 September 2009 - 10:11 AM

The port is part of the coolant passage that runs through the manifold (the coolant "cross-over" from one head to the other) and as such cannot be blocked by removing or plugging hoses. You could TIG weld the passage off from the main passage but JB weld is easier if you don't have access to a TIG and there's no danger in my experience of it blowing out - the carb base acts to back up the JB weld.

GD

#18 akc

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Posted 09 September 2009 - 10:13 AM

THANK YOU THAT IS EXACTLY WHAT I Needed to know.

#19 akc

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Posted 09 September 2009 - 01:16 PM

One more question when you take off the carb and look down the water hole you see a little tube that seems to come to the top does this get sealed off or is this needed? Checked compresssion was good in holes.

#20 GeneralDisorder

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Posted 09 September 2009 - 04:42 PM

Yeah - just seal the whole opening - tube as well. You can remove and plug the hose that runs to that tube if you wish or just leave it hooked up.

GD

#21 akc

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Posted 09 September 2009 - 07:15 PM

Done no water leaking into the engine now to check out if I still have a water leak elsewhere? I am hoping I do not have to replace the heads. Will test her tommorrow and hopefully she will run great.




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