njdrsubaru Posted September 3, 2009 Share Posted September 3, 2009 (edited) ok here is the deal... i'm buying a low mileage ej22 for almost nothing.. the person is getting rid of it because its useless to him, so i have an extra motor.. now the plan: rebuild it entirely over the winter. then spring comes drop in the legacy. what am I looking for here: advices, tips and tricks on rebuilding an ej22 its my first complete motor rebuild... i am taking about "cracking" the block open and replacing it all, from bearings to connecting rods to pistons... thanks in advance Neo Edited September 3, 2009 by njdrsubaru Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted September 3, 2009 Share Posted September 3, 2009 purpose of rebuild? what are you looking for, goals? might want to swap it out with one of your running motors if it's in better shape/lower miles. rebuilding a known good low mileage EJ22 seems odd, except that you know it's in great shape. Mr. Radon over on the Subaruxt.com forum documented an awesome engine rebuild. Talks about plasti-gauging the bearing clearances, hot tanking, exellent pictures, right up piston pin removal, making his own tool for that, blah blah blah - a really nice documentary on an engine rebuild. it's an XT6 of course so the parts are different but the principles would be nearly identical and the engine lay out is the same. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
njdrsubaru Posted September 3, 2009 Author Share Posted September 3, 2009 purpose of rebuild? what are you looking for, goals? might want to swap it out with one of your running motors if it's in better shape/lower miles. rebuilding a known good low mileage EJ22 seems odd, except that you know it's in great shape. purpose of the rebuild is to have a brand spanking new motor in my wagon.. which now has an oil burning ej22... that i have to add a quart of oil every week to it... now the low mileage i was talking about is 123k on the new motor.. i wont put a motor in the car ever again without rebuilding it.. thats what happened with the one i have on there now.. i bought that motor with 74K and 30K miles later it smokes when pushed hard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
89Ru Posted September 3, 2009 Share Posted September 3, 2009 Pardon the questions but how do you know its burning oil? Isn't there a plastic plate inside the bellhousing that cracks and leaks oil? 123K on an ej22 is just getting broken in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
njdrsubaru Posted September 3, 2009 Author Share Posted September 3, 2009 Pardon the questions but how do you know its burning oil? Isn't there a plastic plate inside the bellhousing that cracks and leaks oil? 123K on an ej22 is just getting broken in. My current EJ that is on my wagon now only has 110K.. and it burns oil, everytime i push it hard it puffs smoke in the rear and the oil level goes away below low after a week.. i was also told by a friend of mine which drove behind me on the highway that my car puffs smoke when downshifting (higher rpms), she is right, it is smoking... now 123K on the new motor is nothing but again i am not taking chances of being another motor that will smoke within 30k miles like has happened with the current motor... hence why i am doing a complete rebuild before dropping it in. fyi there are no leaks on the current motor.. i am very anal about oil leaks . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
njdrsubaru Posted September 3, 2009 Author Share Posted September 3, 2009 to those who post after this please keep in the topic... advice, tips and tricks on rebuilding please thanks much Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
njdrsubaru Posted September 3, 2009 Author Share Posted September 3, 2009 Mr. Radon over on the Subaruxt.com forum documented an awesome engine rebuild. Talks about plasti-gauging the bearing clearances, hot tanking, exellent pictures, right up piston pin removal, making his own tool for that, blah blah blah - a really nice documentary on an engine rebuild. it's an XT6 of course so the parts are different but the principles would be nearly identical and the engine lay out is the same. did a search there and no luck.. do you have a link? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted September 3, 2009 Share Posted September 3, 2009 http://subaruxt.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=3575&start=0&st=0&sk=t&sd=a&hilit=rebuild Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
njdrsubaru Posted September 3, 2009 Author Share Posted September 3, 2009 thanks dude Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted September 3, 2009 Share Posted September 3, 2009 Bottom end on an EJ22 is good for ~350k miles. Remove the heads, resurface, valve grind and replace stem seals. Reinstall and replace all other seals. Instead of uselessly spending money on parts the engine will not need for another ~225k miles - buy a decent torque wrench to insure your reassembly is done correct. In fact buy two - an in/lbs and a ft/lbs. Seriously - take it from somoene that's done a few of these - what you are contemplating is pointless. The oil burning is entirely in the top end of the engine - Subaru engine's do not wear their cylinder bore's - even at 350k the rings will still be sealing good - the rod bearings is what gets them every time. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
njdrsubaru Posted September 3, 2009 Author Share Posted September 3, 2009 Bottom end on an EJ22 is good for ~350k miles. The oil burning is entirely in the top end of the engine - Subaru engine's do not wear their cylinder bore's - even at 350k the rings will still be sealing good - the rod bearings is what gets them every time. GD now that u mentioned this.. why would my 110k ej22 be consuming and burning oil? what else could it be if the rings arent the issue? i have changed the pcv with an oem... and wires and plugs.. now could it be that is off timing? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bucky92 Posted September 3, 2009 Share Posted September 3, 2009 (edited) I told you before but the world just seems to think I dont have a brain.... low mileage doesnt mean poo... all it says is it was sitting..alot or just run on short runs...which is worse for a motor then being driven alot. Your 74K motor sat for how long in a JY? then... for how long before it made it to the JY? Cars that sit and havent been run for a long time have problems...seals dry rot, moisture gets into places and cause pits etc. Sure you can find a car thats been sitting for 10 years and have it fire right up...but I can bet money in a short period of time its going to have some age related issues. I have explained this concept to you numerous times and you havent listened... but what do I know..I have only owned and worked on over 45 cars all makes and models. I would rather have a 200K mile motor that leaks alittle that I know has been driven then one thats low mileage and been sitting...this is why ..even though I will never finish my coupe and care less too..I at least go out and start it and run it for a good 20+ minutes every other week...more in the winter I have followed that car enough ..it smokes and smokes a good bit..every time you let off the gas or the car shifts. Edited September 3, 2009 by Bucky92 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted September 3, 2009 Share Posted September 3, 2009 now that u mentioned this.. why would my 110k ej22 be consuming and burning oil? what else could it be if the rings arent the issue? i have changed the pcv with an oem... and wires and plugs.. now could it be that is off timing? You replaced the PCV valve but did you clean out all the lines? At any rate PCV valves do not generally cause oil buning - they cause the oil to be fouled by blow-by gasses and in extreem cases they can blow seals out, etc. The oil burning is very likely to be valve stem seals. Most Subarus need new stem seals every 100k to 150k in order to burn the least oil possible. It's just the nature of the valves being almost horizontal vs. being vertical in most other engine designs. According to Subaru, 1 quart every 3k miles is not considered excessive oil usage. Go ahead and pull the heads - I'll tell you right now you will still be able to see the factory cross-hatch on the cylinder walls. There will be minimal bottom end wear and you risk introducing amature assembly errors by tearing it down to the crank. If you are doing it as a learning experience, then by all means, but know that you will probably make a few mistakes - that means that most likely your first couple engine rebuilds will neccesarily be sub-standard. It's just a factor of the learning curve that goes along with complete engine rebuilds. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
njdrsubaru Posted September 3, 2009 Author Share Posted September 3, 2009 (edited) I told you before but the world just seems to think I dont have a brain.... I have explained this concept to you numerous times and you havent listened... but what do I know..I have only owned and worked on over 45 cars all makes and models. I would rather have a 200K mile motor that leaks alittle that I know has been driven then one thats low mileage and been sitting...this is why ..even though I will never finish my coupe and care less too..I at least go out and start it and run it for a good 20+ minutes every other week...more in the winter I have followed that car enough ..it smokes and smokes a good bit..every time you let off the gas or the car shifts. here is why i have this post up and am investing on another ej22 to rebuild from scratch.... i have taken your advice and listened to every word u've said and here i am taking action on the subject based on what you have pointed out to me and yes you were right... no need for me to get fingers pointed at Edited September 3, 2009 by njdrsubaru Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
njdrsubaru Posted September 3, 2009 Author Share Posted September 3, 2009 this is completely off topic.... ideas, tips and tricks on rebuilding thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
njdrsubaru Posted September 4, 2009 Author Share Posted September 4, 2009 Go ahead and pull the heads - I'll tell you right now you will still be able to see the factory cross-hatch on the cylinder walls. There will be minimal bottom end wear and you risk introducing amature assembly errors by tearing it down to the crank. If you are doing it as a learning experience, then by all means, but know that you will probably make a few mistakes - that means that most likely your first couple engine rebuilds will neccesarily be sub-standard. It's just a factor of the learning curve that goes along with complete engine rebuilds. GD thats the reason why i am getting a motor that is costing me almost nothing... everyone makes mistakes even the most experienced professionals... i am getting the other motor just for the fact that the vehicle is my daily driver and i need to have minimal down time as possible... so i can take my time through the winter working on the new motor and then when all is done i'll just drop it in.... in which i have done a few times already.... now you r advice of doing just the valve stems on the new motor sounds appealing.. off course with headgaskets and complete reseal Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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