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EJ-22 swap, Project Loyale


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238 replies to this topic

#126 jrettenmayer

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Posted 28 November 2009 - 10:04 PM

What color were the wires you tapped into coming off the ignition for the constant 12V and "Ignition On" to power the ECU and the relays? I've got 5 thick wires going into my ignition switch, all black with another color (red, blue, yellow, or green...and one other I can't remember right now). Or...alternately, where is the best spot to tap into the constant 12V and IGG ON 12V behind the firewall? Thanks!

#127 cmiller

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Posted 29 November 2009 - 12:30 AM

What color were the wires you tapped into coming off the ignition for the constant 12V and "Ignition On" to power the ECU and the relays? I've got 5 thick wires going into my ignition switch, all black with another color (red, blue, yellow, or green...and one other I can't remember right now). Or...alternately, where is the best spot to tap into the constant 12V and IGG ON 12V behind the firewall? Thanks!


I can't remember exactly. Easiest way to find out which one is to use a test light and turn the key to different positions. That's how I found out what each wire went to what.

#128 jrettenmayer

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Posted 29 November 2009 - 12:43 AM

Doh! Makes sense...

How about cooling fans? After I cut down the harness...I don't seem to have a main fan relay (it's in the legacy fusebox)- did you hook up fans through the existing EA harness? I am beginning to understand what is meant by "the devil is in the details"...

#129 cmiller

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Posted 29 November 2009 - 10:44 AM

Doh! Makes sense...

How about cooling fans? After I cut down the harness...I don't seem to have a main fan relay (it's in the legacy fusebox)- did you hook up fans through the existing EA harness? I am beginning to understand what is meant by "the devil is in the details"...


one fan needs to be switched on through the EJ ECU and the other I have as an auxiliary fan on a switch.

#130 RAugur33

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Posted 04 December 2009 - 11:14 PM

I think this is by far the best process write up on the EA82/EJ22 swap. Definitely addresses many of the little obstacles that many will run into, with pics.

A++++++



Any chance that this can be a sticky?

#131 cmiller

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Posted 08 December 2009 - 01:21 AM

Just added some EA82 rear disc brakes today. Really easy swap. Wow, what a difference!:banana:

#132 mellow65

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Posted 08 December 2009 - 11:21 AM


Any chance that this can be a sticky?


im sure it would stick around if he condensed it down and submitted it to the USRM

#133 thehondaguy

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Posted 20 December 2009 - 08:49 AM

this is an awesome write up cmiller! i have done countless swaps in hondas, and plan to try this one when i can locate a ej22. i also have a 92 loyale. congrats on the swap!! any videos?

#134 cmiller

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Posted 01 January 2010 - 05:57 PM

Been awhile but I got some more progress done. I wired in a 1/4 watt 300 ohm resistor in line from the wire off of the EJ harness labeled "Temp Guage" from Numbchux, into the wire for the temp gauge on my Loyale cluster (pin 13 on a black plug I believe). I'm going out to get the car warmed up right now and see if the gauge reads anything and I'll post up the results.

#135 Numbchux

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Posted 01 January 2010 - 09:18 PM

Been awhile but I got some more progress done. I wired in a 1/4 watt 300 ohm resistor in line from the wire off of the EJ harness labeled "Temp Guage" from Numbchux, into the wire for the temp gauge on my Loyale cluster (pin 13 on a black plug I believe). I'm going out to get the car warmed up right now and see if the gauge reads anything and I'll post up the results.


hmmm....doesn't sound quite right. the resistor has to be between the signal wire and a ground. not between the sensor and gauge.

#136 hooziewhatsit

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Posted 02 January 2010 - 11:52 AM

Is there any chance you can get pictures of what you did for the fans?

Also, did you get the AC working?

#137 cmiller

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Posted 02 January 2010 - 12:10 PM

hmmm....doesn't sound quite right. the resistor has to be between the signal wire and a ground. not between the sensor and gauge.


Ahh, that would explain why it didn't work. So let me get this straight, the signal wire from the EJ harness would normally connect straight to the wire for the gauge? So to splice the resistor in I need to T off of this connection from the signal wire and go to a ground after the resistor while still leaving the connection to the gauge wire from the signal wire?

Edited by cmiller, 02 January 2010 - 12:19 PM.


#138 cmiller

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Posted 02 January 2010 - 12:18 PM

Is there any chance you can get pictures of what you did for the fans?

Also, did you get the AC working?


Sure, I'll put up a pic. The fans are just in front of the radiator where the AC condenser was before. So no I didn't get the AC working. Couldn't figure out how to have the fans in there with the condenser. So I just took out the whole system. Don't really need it here in Oregon.

#139 hooziewhatsit

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Posted 02 January 2010 - 04:13 PM

Ahh, that would explain why it didn't work. So let me get this straight, the signal wire from the EJ harness would normally connect straight to the wire for the gauge? So to splice the resistor in I need to T off of this connection from the signal wire and go to a ground after the resistor while still leaving the connection to the gauge wire from the signal wire?


Correct. T one side of the resistor into the wire going to the sensor, and put the other end of the resistor to ground.

If you took the condensor out, I won't really need pictures. I was hoping you found a way to keep it all there.

The west side of Oregon may not need AC, but living on the East side it would be nicer with it :grin:

#140 Numbchux

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Posted 02 January 2010 - 09:45 PM

Ahh, that would explain why it didn't work. So let me get this straight, the signal wire from the EJ harness would normally connect straight to the wire for the gauge? So to splice the resistor in I need to T off of this connection from the signal wire and go to a ground after the resistor while still leaving the connection to the gauge wire from the signal wire?


that sounds right. this diagram is in the Write-up. should explain it better than words....but it sounds like you got it right

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#141 cmiller

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Posted 02 January 2010 - 10:19 PM

Thanks guys, I'll give it a go tomorrow and see what happens!

#142 cmiller

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Posted 03 January 2010 - 04:04 PM

Ok, I re-wired as per the diagram Numbchux posted with the 300 ohm resistor going to ground. The gauge finally works but still reads really low. The needle is just above the "C" mark when the engine is warm. This is about 1/4 of where it was normally. Hmmm, any other ideas on how to get an accurate reading more in the middle of the gauge?

#143 RAugur33

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Posted 03 January 2010 - 07:37 PM

As suggested by ShawnW; I haven't tried it yet.

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Re: Last EA81/EJ22 swap question (I hope)
I suggest taking the ea81 sending unit out of the old motor, get a few adapter pieces and a braided stainless steel brake line and adapt the sender in to the location on the ej22 block where the dummy light sender is. The last one I did this way the sender laid up above the block by the alternator.

#144 cmiller

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Posted 03 January 2010 - 10:12 PM

As suggested by ShawnW; I haven't tried it yet.

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Re: Last EA81/EJ22 swap question (I hope)
I suggest taking the ea81 sending unit out of the old motor, get a few adapter pieces and a braided stainless steel brake line and adapt the sender in to the location on the ej22 block where the dummy light sender is. The last one I did this way the sender laid up above the block by the alternator.


I think he's talking about the oil pressure sender here.

#145 RAugur33

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Posted 05 January 2010 - 01:11 AM

Not sure why I thought you were talking about OP when is clearly says temp:confused:

#146 SuperchargedRS

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Posted 06 January 2010 - 03:02 AM

Ok, I re-wired as per the diagram Numbchux posted with the 300 ohm resistor going to ground. The gauge finally works but still reads really low. The needle is just above the "C" mark when the engine is warm. This is about 1/4 of where it was normally. Hmmm, any other ideas on how to get an accurate reading more in the middle of the gauge?


Wasn't it a 275ohm resistor?

#147 eulogious

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Posted 06 January 2010 - 04:06 AM

Ok, I re-wired as per the diagram Numbchux posted with the 300 ohm resistor going to ground. The gauge finally works but still reads really low. The needle is just above the "C" mark when the engine is warm. This is about 1/4 of where it was normally. Hmmm, any other ideas on how to get an accurate reading more in the middle of the gauge?


I would experiment with different resistance. The only problem is that you need another source to actually temp the motor to make sure it's running correctly and at the proper temp before messing around with the resistors to much and messing up the gauge.

Now that I am done with the disclaimer... From the sounds of it, lower resistance should raise the gauge more so a 275ohm resistor as mention before me should help make the gauge go farther up the line. If that doesn't work, try another one, etc, etc... It should be that simple, but you know you that goes. My 2 cents.

PS Great writeup and glad you got it going!! Now I just have to wait for my ea82t to stop running so well!

#148 cmiller

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Posted 06 January 2010 - 07:25 PM

I would experiment with different resistance. The only problem is that you need another source to actually temp the motor to make sure it's running correctly and at the proper temp before messing around with the resistors to much and messing up the gauge.

Now that I am done with the disclaimer... From the sounds of it, lower resistance should raise the gauge more so a 275ohm resistor as mention before me should help make the gauge go farther up the line. If that doesn't work, try another one, etc, etc... It should be that simple, but you know you that goes. My 2 cents.

PS Great writeup and glad you got it going!! Now I just have to wait for my ea82t to stop running so well!


I have a 270 ohm resistor that I'll try next. No electronics stores in the Portland area (Radioshack, Fry's, etc...) have 275 ohm resistors so it was either a 270 or 300. Anyone out there actually try to correct their temp gauge with this method on an EJ22 swap?

#149 zstylelowrider

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Posted 18 January 2010 - 03:15 PM

What would you say it cost you to perform the whole swap?

#150 Gloyale

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Posted 19 January 2010 - 09:45 PM

Been awhile but I got some more progress done. I wired in a 1/4 watt 300 ohm resistor in line from the wire off of the EJ harness labeled "Temp Guage" from Numbchux, into the wire for the temp gauge on my Loyale cluster


In my reseach for my swap, I found that the EJ harness (at least my 93 Legacy harness) used the same wire for the gauge as one of the 2 CTS wires. It just splits off of the CTS wire and goes to the gauge. I couldn't figure out where they seperated or how the ECU read the reading from the CTS and not just from the gauge sender. Check the 92 FSM MPFI engine diagrahms....the CTS wire splits off and is labeled as "to temp gauge" but I can't find it on any of the other diagrahms.


SO......being confused......What I did was strip out a long piece of shielded 2 wire bundle from my EJ harness(probably ABS wires). I ran this one shielded strand from the engine bay to under the dash where my OP gauge and Temp Gauge wires from the dash are. I used the 2 wires, one for my Temp gauge and one for Oil Pressure, seperating them entirely from the rest of my EJ harness.

I wired in a 270 Ohm, 1/2 watt resitor parrallel to my sender....and my temp reads right on the line in the middle of the EA81 gauge at operatiing temp. Posted Image

I still only have the original EJ oil pressure dummy light sender in the block. So currently the gauge pegs in the morning when I turn the key on, and then drops to zero after the engine is started. If my oil pressure gauge ever moves off zero while drivng, I know I have a problem.

Edited by Gloyale, 01 February 2010 - 12:01 AM.





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