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Guest Message by DevFuse
 

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Half of my lift is built.


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31 replies to this topic

#1 Redcap

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Posted 09 September 2009 - 06:16 PM

My buddy Rob found a nice piece of 2"x2"x24" .250" wall stainless last night at work...he also asked for dimensions over the phone. Apparently he had nothing to do at work all night. Today, I have a REALLY beefy set of blocks for the front of my 3dr.

Posted Image

Posted Image

Gonna get a piece of flat bar tomorrow, get the rear built too. Hopefully, it'll be lifted by Friday.

#2 The Scooby

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Posted 09 September 2009 - 06:17 PM

nice

#3 Markus56

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Posted 09 September 2009 - 08:36 PM

I think i might see a problem in the non angled blocks...

the offset holes should be in the lateral direction on the block if that makes sense.

If I'm wrong, please correct me and i will shut up :rolleyes:

#4 one eye

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Posted 09 September 2009 - 09:35 PM

I think i might see a problem in the non angled blocks...

the offset holes should be in the lateral direction on the block if that makes sense.

If I'm wrong, please correct me and i will shut up :rolleyes:


No your right John, that is wrong, the straight blocks need to have 15* drilled in them as well......................

Jeff

#5 Markus56

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Posted 09 September 2009 - 09:59 PM

Posted Image

Right idea, wrong direction

#6 Redcap

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Posted 09 September 2009 - 10:56 PM

No your right John, that is wrong, the straight blocks need to have 15* drilled in them as well......................

Jeff


They did have the 15* drilled in, just the wrong way...

#7 Markus56

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Posted 10 September 2009 - 01:01 AM

That is what I meant. :)

I can see the offset in the pictures, but as you said, in the wrong direction :eek:

#8 Redcap

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Posted 10 September 2009 - 08:14 AM

That is what I meant. :)

I can see the offset in the pictures, but as you said, in the wrong direction :eek:


I was afraid of that when I first saw the straight blocks. Fail. Guess it'll get lifted next week then. Oh well, there was plenty of 2x2 stainless left.

#9 The Dude Abides

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Posted 13 September 2009 - 04:23 PM

Maybe its me but on those straight blocks there doesnt seem to be alot of meat around those bottom bolt holes. I can see something getting riped apart at some point.

#10 Markus56

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Posted 16 September 2009 - 08:41 PM

Maybe its me but on those straight blocks there doesnt seem to be alot of meat around those bottom bolt holes. I can see something getting riped apart at some point.


Those are the ones that are drilled wrong

#11 Redcap

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Posted 11 November 2009 - 03:01 PM

Replaced those two .250" wall straight blocks with some .125" wall stainless blocks.

Also took possession of my rear lift today.

Posted Image


Tomorrow sounds like the day it goes up. Any tips or secrets I should know about before I begin? What size bolts did you guys use on the rear?

#12 3eyedwagon

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Posted 11 November 2009 - 05:53 PM

Take your front swaybar off right from the get go.

It'll do nothing but fight you the whole way. You won't be able to drop your front control arms far enough to get the blocks in otherwise. So save yourself some time, and just cut it off before you even try. The car will still drive just fine without it.

The rear is quite simple. Just take the struts off, and reverse them 180*. What was originally pointing towards the outside of the car, should be facing the center diff when you're finished.

We used 5/8" bolts about 1" to 1 1/2" in length with matching nuts, and lock washers. Metric will work just fine too. Just take the one out of the body with you to the store when you buy them, compare diameter, and you need just enough to get through the strut top mount, and your extenders. TADA, you're set!

#13 Redcap

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Posted 11 November 2009 - 06:16 PM

Take your front swaybar off right from the get go.

It'll do nothing but fight you the whole way. You won't be able to drop your front control arms far enough to get the blocks in otherwise. So save yourself some time, and just cut it off before you even try. The car will still drive just fine without it.

The rear is quite simple. Just take the struts off, and reverse them 180*. What was originally pointing towards the outside of the car, should be facing the center diff when you're finished.

We used 5/8" bolts about 1" to 1 1/2" in length with matching nuts, and lock washers. Metric will work just fine too. Just take the one out of the body with you to the store when you buy them, compare diameter, and you need just enough to get through the strut top mount, and your extenders. TADA, you're set!


Sweet, thanks! I don't care for the sway bar anyway, it was already on the chopping block.

Got a couple more questions, though...want to get my ducks in a row so this goes as smoothly as possible tomorrow.

Reuse the top bolts (extender to body) or are longer required? Once the sway bar is removed, will there be enough droop in the control arm or should I remove the strut from the front?

I'm sure I'll think of another thing or two by the end of the evening...

#14 The Beast I Drive

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Posted 11 November 2009 - 06:35 PM

2" lift is the simplest lift to install ever.

FRONT. (process is the same on both sides)
Step 1: Remove sway bar
2. Unbolt the control arm pivot bolt
3. Unbolt the 3 nuts at the top of the strut
4. Install blocks on strut top, attach using the original nuts.
5. Install the strut. Use 5/16x1" or drill out the holes in the strut mount and use 3/8"X1" bolts and nuts. Tighten all the bolts and nuts.
6. Re-attach the lower control arm at the pivot point. Check brake lines to make sure they are not over extended (They shouldnt be)

REAR. (also the same on both sides)
Step 1: Remove the 2 bolts at the top of the strut that attach to the body.
2. Unbolt the bottom of the strut and rotate 180 degrees, and re-attach.
3. Install the rear blocks on the struts with 1/2"x1" bolts and nuts. You may have to drill out the holes in the strut top bracket to make them fit.
4. Attach the lifted brakets to the body with the original bolts. Tighten all the bolts and nuts. Check the brake lines to make sure they are not over extended (they shouldnt be)

Put the wheels back on and enjoy the lifted awesomeness!

-Bill

#15 Redcap

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Posted 11 November 2009 - 10:45 PM

A couple more (probably dumb) questions...

The holes on my rear blocks are already drilled to 9/16" on both sides. Do I need to go larger for the bolt attaching to the body? I figure the strut mount will need to be drilled, but will it take that large of a hole?

The front blocks have 7/16" bolts welded in. Will the strut mount holes up front take drilling to that size without significantly weakening them?


Thanks for putting up with me and my questions. You guys kick rump roast!

I'll have pictures tomorrow!

#16 The Beast I Drive

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Posted 12 November 2009 - 12:09 AM

No need to drill any bigger in the back, the stock bolts fit through a 1/2" hole no problem. For the front you will have to drill out the strut mount holes to 7/16", which is no big deal, it won't weaken it enough to make a difference. Get to it! I wanna see some 30's on this thing already :lol:

-Bill

#17 Redcap

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Posted 12 November 2009 - 09:41 AM

No need to drill any bigger in the back, the stock bolts fit through a 1/2" hole no problem. For the front you will have to drill out the strut mount holes to 7/16", which is no big deal, it won't weaken it enough to make a difference. Get to it! I wanna see some 30's on this thing already :lol:

-Bill


The rear blocks are already drilled to 9/16", they were when my buddy Rob dropped them off.

It'll happen today, after my son gets picked up by his mother. Pics this afternoon or evening!

No tires for it yet, though...so it'll look pretty stupid with the stock little 13" pizza-cutters under a 2" lift.

Edited by Redcap, 12 November 2009 - 01:49 PM.


#18 Redcap

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Posted 12 November 2009 - 07:49 PM

Well, looks like it'll be tomorrow when it actually gets lifted. My son's mother was exceedingly late, so I out of light and need to hit the hardware store for 9/16"x1" bolts for the rear.

#19 Breeke

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Posted 13 November 2009 - 01:34 AM

Your awful close my my place....you could come use my shop it's lit and whatnot.....

just a thought.....let me know

#20 Redcap

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Posted 13 November 2009 - 04:26 AM

Your awful close my my place....you could come use my shop it's lit and whatnot.....

just a thought.....let me know


Damnit! That makes me somewhat upset that I've already torn it apart!

Thanks for the offer, though!

#21 Breeke

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Posted 13 November 2009 - 08:10 AM

lol...

well next time......or box your shi...stuff up and put your car in a backpack and hitch hike over...lol

anyway...i'd like to see this rig...you should let me come see it. :grin:

#22 Scott in Bellingham

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Posted 13 November 2009 - 08:16 AM

9/16"x1" bolts for the rear.


if you use 7/16 you will not have to drill the strut top mount

#23 Redcap

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Posted 13 November 2009 - 12:57 PM

No need to drill any bigger in the back, the stock bolts fit through a 1/2" hole no problem. For the front you will have to drill out the strut mount holes to 7/16", which is no big deal, it won't weaken it enough to make a difference. Get to it! I wanna see some 30's on this thing already :lol:

-Bill


Workin' on it! Pretty sure I'm going to go with 27" Hankook Dynapro MTs. :)

lol...

well next time......or box your shi...stuff up and put your car in a backpack and hitch hike over...lol

anyway...i'd like to see this rig...you should let me come see it. :grin:


That can be arranged!

if you use 7/16 you will not have to drill the strut top mount


I took care of that last night while choking down a few beers and hogged the holes out to 9/16". ;)

#24 Redcap

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Posted 13 November 2009 - 12:59 PM

And now, for some pictures!

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Posted Image


Posted Image


The Legacy seats are really comfortable!

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My homemade GPS mount and "custom" shift knobs, scavenged relics from my barn. :grin:

Posted Image





Phase 1: complete.

On to Phase 2.

#25 ivantruckman

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Posted 13 November 2009 - 02:23 PM

I didnt know it was a coupe. looks awsome lifted, just waiting for some big ole knobbies :headbang:




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