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What Have You Done to your Soobie lately? (Please post in here and keep it going)


Ricearu
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So all your belts are doing is spinning the alternator right? lol and it's a dual belt set-up! lmao

 

That's a nice looking engine compartment. Nice looking quality belts too, btw. What brand are those?

 

Yup, I've got two belts running parallel to each other around all three pulleys. It runs better with two belts. I mean, say it takes 10 ft-lbs of torque to rotate the crank pulley (random number). Running only one belt, that belt has to pull all 10 ft-lbs of torque. However, with two belts, each belt only needs to pull 5 ft-lbs. Not sure if that makes sense to you guys, but for me, it means less wear & tear on the belts.

 

It's just the crank pulley, water pump, and alternator. As simple as it gets, haha.  :)

 

The photo makes the engine compartment look clean.  :P Just look underneath.... My skidplate probably weighs twice as much due to all the grease. Every part I take off I try to clean, but there was so much grease on the skidplate, I didn't have enough degreaser.  :rolleyes: The wiring for my fog lights (in between the alternator and battery) is also pretty messy.

 

 

They are Gates :)

I can tell just from looking at the marks on them :P

 

 

Aha, no they aren't. ;) They are actually Valucrafts. For this belt configuration, there are two belts they sell at Autozone. There are the Valucraft 17360 belts, and the Duralast 17360 belts (same part numbers). The Valucrafts were $5 each, whereas the Duralasts are $9 each. The Valucrafts are very slightly thicker and deeper. I'll have to see how long they last.  :)

Edited by jj421
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Yup, I've got two belts running parallel to each other around all three pulleys. It runs better with two belts. I mean, say it takes 10 ft-lbs of torque to rotate the crank pulley (random number). Running only one belt, that belt has to pull all 10 ft-lbs of torque. However, with two belts, each belt only needs to pull 5 ft-lbs. Not sure if that makes sense to you guys, but for me, it means less wear & tear on the belts.

 

It's just the crank pulley, water pump, and alternator. As simple as it gets, haha.  :)

 

The photo makes the engine compartment look clean.  :P Just look underneath.... My skidplate probably weighs twice as much due to all the grease. Every part I take off I try to clean, but there was so much grease on the skidplate, I didn't have enough degreaser.  :rolleyes: The wiring for my fog lights (in between the alternator and battery) is also pretty messy.

 

 

 

Aha, no they aren't. ;) They are actually Valucrafts. For this belt configuration, there are two belts they sell at Autozone. There are the Valucraft 17360 belts, and the Duralast 17360 belts (same part numbers). The Valucrafts were $5 each, whereas the Duralasts are $9 each. The Valucrafts are very slightly thicker and deeper. I'll have to see how long they last.  :)

it is important to note that if youre gonna run two belts on the alt that both need to be the exact same belt and the exact same age (or shelf life). if one stretches before the other, it creates problems. 

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it is important to note that if youre gonna run two belts on the alt that both need to be the exact same belt and the exact same age (or shelf life). if one stretches before the other, it creates problems. 

 

Not sure about the shelf life, but the belts were purchased within an hour of each other (had to drive to two different Autozones, since they only stock one). They're holding the same amount of tension, so as far as I can tell, they're stretched evenly. Almost every time I pop the hood, I look at the belts. So I'll be keeping a regular eye on 'em. Before doing the manual swap, I was running with one belt that was a couple months older than the other. I noticed no problems. But starting with these belts, I'm going to try and keep them the same age.

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  • 2 weeks later...

The PandaWagon hates cold wet weather. This morning, on my way to work, I could not go beyond 4K with anything more than 2/3s throttle. It bucks and kicks, sputters, and just says "NO!". AFR is hitting 9:1 or richer during this time and no CELs either. I don't get it. Saturday, when I had it out, it did it in the morning, but once the weather warmed up, it was fine. Although, the CEL kicked on on my way home, code 13. According to the FSM, that's the CAM sensor. I checked the wiring and it's OK. I do have a spare CAM sensor, so, I'll be swapping that tonight. This is not good, we have a RallyX on Saturday!

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Have you checked out your distributor cap carefully? I was having a similar issue. It turned out my cap had a small crack in it that was letting in moisture and causing spark to get out. It was fairly badly carbon traced. After I threw a new cap on there, all the issue went away.

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The PandaWagon has an EJ25 in it, so, it doesn't have a distributor. I have Cam and Crank angle sensors, ignitor, and the coil pack. I've had my hand on the coil pack while it is running and felt no shocking experiences.

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What are we looking at... I can't decipher what it is?

 

That's the flexible hose from the PandaWagon's frankenintake to the fender where I was grabbing cooler air. The flexible hose collapsed and blocked off just about the entire opening into the filter assembly.

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I found out that one of my gas cans in the shop didnt actually have clean gas in it....

 

Yeah....

 

 

The wife had been driving the subaru, and come monday morning she was running late, and the fual gauge was on empty.

 

So I grabbed one of my many fuel cans and put 4-5 gallons in.  

 

 

She texted me later that day, asking what kind of gas I put in....

 

 

my simple question was.... "WHY??"

 

 

Low on power, missing at low revs, and monster smoke show.

 

Seems the can I grabbed was the 50:1 mix for the chainsaws.    :lol:

 

 

Aw well, subaru took it like a champ.  I checked it over, topped it off from a station in town, and let her rip.

 

Power is back, but still a bit smokey.  It will take a while to work it all out.

 

 

 

Proof positive that a EA81 will indeed run on 50:1 mixed fuel though!!  :P

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i just picked up a rear 3.7 LSD for my loyale. i have been looking forever. also i took two of the mustache bars (the thing that holds the diff) and cut the ends off one and welded them both together. some how i manged to twist mine. it defenitly was bent like a S when i took it off

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Dryer hose doesn't like suction.

Looks like you need a real pipe for that. To Lowes! :P

 

Twitch

Ha ha. Well, that flexible tubing came with the K&N filter. It's a whole lot stronger than dryer hose. It just cannot take the extreme under hood temps I experience here in the desert. Yes, a pipe would be much better. I haven't decided how I will do it, yet.

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Idasho, my BRAT ran on about a 50/50 mix of diesel and gas once before :grin:

Apparently my dad forgot that gas cans are red and his diesel can is green.

He borrowed the BRAT, made it 3 miles down the road and the poor thing started to choke and die on him. He couldn't figure it out until diesel vapors eeked from the fuel filler hose :lol:

Ran like a champ after he countered the diesel with an even mix of gas...

 

Subynut, that scares me that K&N would include that with one of their kits.

If you wanted to go on the cheap, a chunk of plumbing pipe would be a suitable replacement...

 

Twitch

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Yeah, I think it was just the summer heat. It's been on and off the car for the past two or three years, one of those times was to Subiefest in the middle of summer - wanted cooler air since I was AutoX'in at the show that year.

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I had just started to drive to work this morning and was about 0.25 mi from home when my RX gave a shudder like it was stalling and the engine quit. I pulled over and tried to restart it and it cranked, but no start. I popped the hood and checked that the battery and alternator cables were connected and tight and that the distributor was connected. Nothing changed. I unplugged the distributor and cranked for a bit and went to smell the tailpipe to see if I smelled fuel. I couldn't. If the car is backed into a garage, I know this works, but being outside which is not a confined space may be the reason I didn't smell anything. I was out of ideas and so was my dad, who I awoke with a phone call at 0530 because I live 2 hrs ahead of my parents now. I called a repair shop recommended to me and had the car towed there.

 

They called back in the afternoon and said they thought a timing belt had failed. This was very surprising to me because I had inspected the belts a month ago and they were in great condition. I had put them in in December 2009. The shop hadn't actually taken the covers off to check but said the distributor wasn't spinning. They started talking about it being an interference engine and I informed them it was not and they checked their books again and said I was right. They must have looked at a DOHC 1.8 engine. Most people on this site probably have more experience with EA8x engines than all the technicians at a non-Subaru shop. It will be $850 for the repair including the tow, which is hugely expensive but I don't have a spare car nor the time to wait for parts to come in and for me to install them, so I am going to let them fix it.

 

Morals:

 

I should have left the covers off after the work I did a month ago.

I should carry a spare timing belt set and tools in the car.

I should save up a lot of money if I am going to keep it as my DD (at least until I save enough to get something new so the RX is my spare).

Edited by PlaneDriver
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