Rlmcowboy Posted February 15, 2014 Share Posted February 15, 2014 Carb rebuild,rear wheel bearings, replaced stripped out drum, fixed and or weeded out some vacuum/ emmisions crap. Next will be exhaust. Any suggestions for 86 Gl wagon. I was thinking dual exhaust with turbo type mufflers and no cat.converters Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooner Posted February 15, 2014 Share Posted February 15, 2014 Carb rebuild,rear wheel bearings, replaced stripped out drum, fixed and or weeded out some vacuum/ emmisions crap. Next will be exhaust. Any suggestions for 86 Gl wagon. I was thinking dual exhaust with turbo type mufflers and no cat.converters I think I tried dual exhaust once on an 87' and it didn't work out too well. If I remember right if the pipes are bigger than 1 7/8" it wouldnt work quite right? Or maybe it needed an X pipe? Wow, my reply is useless to you hahaha. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rlmcowboy Posted February 15, 2014 Share Posted February 15, 2014 I've read stay with the 1 7/8 pipe but nothing about duals. Custom bumpers and hitch are in te works also. Small trailer to haul couple dirt bikes would be sweet Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooner Posted February 15, 2014 Share Posted February 15, 2014 I've read stay with the 1 7/8 pipe but nothing about duals. Custom bumpers and hitch are in te works also. Small trailer to haul couple dirt bikes would be sweet Ha I just did a hitch earlier! Did you see my post on the previous page? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rlmcowboy Posted February 15, 2014 Share Posted February 15, 2014 I saw that scooner that and the fact that I drove passed several cars in ditches this afternoon and I thought to myself if only I had a good hitch and recovery strap I could have more fun. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooner Posted February 15, 2014 Share Posted February 15, 2014 Nice, where do you call home? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rlmcowboy Posted February 15, 2014 Share Posted February 15, 2014 Southwestern ohio. Between Dayton and Cincinnati Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooner Posted February 15, 2014 Share Posted February 15, 2014 Oh okay, I hear there's been big snow out that way, meanwhile here in southeast wyoming its supposed to be almost 60 this weekend. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twitch de la Brat Posted February 15, 2014 Share Posted February 15, 2014 Carb rebuild,rear wheel bearings, replaced stripped out drum, fixed and or weeded out some vacuum/ emmisions crap. Next will be exhaust. Any suggestions for 86 Gl wagon. I was thinking dual exhaust with turbo type mufflers and no cat.converters If you do duals, go no bigger than 1 7/8. 1 3/4 duals was pretty much perfect on my BRAT. You'll want a crossover pipe to maintain your low end torque. But it worked beautifully with my EA81. Opened up the mid and upper range drastically without killing the bottom end. If you do the math, you'll see what I mean. Twitch 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rpholz Posted February 15, 2014 Share Posted February 15, 2014 New exhaust, cobbled together from many exhaust. Plus a donated borla muffler. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
81EA81 Posted February 18, 2014 Share Posted February 18, 2014 (edited) New exhaust, cobbled together from many exhaust. Plus a donated borla muffler. Edited February 18, 2014 by 81EA81 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subruise Posted February 18, 2014 Share Posted February 18, 2014 yeah... i know... i just am BROKE right now. i rocked a lift and 13" shadowmags on my loyale for months lol. i feel ya 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rpholz Posted February 19, 2014 Share Posted February 19, 2014 NICE! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jj421 Posted February 19, 2014 Share Posted February 19, 2014 (edited) Went on a mechanical adventure! So I tried lifting my EA82 wagon. Put the 2" lift on the rear no problem. Got it on there in less than an hour. The front though..... Could not get it on, whatsoever. Spent like 10-12 hours on it. Either you put the ball joint in, and can't get the lower control arm in. Or you put the lower control arm in, and can't get the ball joint in. Tried almost everything, but nothing helped. So the front went back to stock height. Leaving was fun too. I put everything back together (or so I thought). Put it in reverse, let out the clutch, and just heard a grinding kind of noise. Turns out the inner CV of my driver side axle separated. Had to put it in 4WD to move. Keep in mind, now it's 2-3 am and POURING down rain. At first, driving away was okay. Then once I got on the road, I touched the brake and the right front wheel locked up. It stayed locked until I came to a stop. Managed to limp in into a parking lot, only to find that my right front wheel had pushed against the fender and was doing it's own thing. A quick inspection later, I realized the ball joint came apart. My ball joints were complete crap, so I couldn't get the castle nut on there tight anyways. So now my ball joint is disconnected and the nut has fallen out on the road somewhere. I search through my tool box and could not find any nut big enough to fit on it. Luckily, I did find a lug nut for the stock EA82 wheels, which fit on there. Got it on there tight by removing the rubber boot and holding the ball joint still with my RoboGrips. Put the wheel back on and kept going. Still had the brake locking up issue. I managed to get into a parking space and shut her off. I'm soaking wet, shivering from the cold, an hour away from home, it's 3 am, I haven't eaten or drank anything in the past 24 hours, my body is sore from working on my car all day, and my car is broken. I gave up and just uncomfortable slept in the front seat of my car. Morning came, and I still had the brake issue. Drove around the parking lot a bit, and the front left ball joint decided to eject itself too. Turns out I forgot to put the pinch bolt back in. Luckily I kept the leftover hardware, so I put the pinch bolt back in. Still having the brake issue, I tried bleeding the brakes, which didn't work. I took off the right front wheel, and guess what? The brake caliper isn't bolted on. The top bolt is on there, but that's the only bolt on there and it isn't even tight. Luckily I had a spare caliper bolt in my car, as the bottom one was gone. Put that on and tightened both of them. But to my surprise, the long bolt that you can take out to access the pads was gone too. Turns out I had stupidly put that bolt in for the pinch bolt on the ball joint. Took it out, and put the proper bolt in for the ball joint. Put it all back together. Now, my car was finally driving alright. The axle is still broken, both ball joints are sketchy, and the brakes need to be bled. But I managed to limp it home. Drove about 75 miles home, avoiding freeways (for everyone's safety). Stopped by O'Reilly and purchased/ordered a new axle and two new ball joints. Had another catastrophic ball joint failure on the driver side, which I had to fix in the middle of the road (no shoulder and couldn't move the car, ergo couldn't get into a parking lot). In total, drove another 75 miles (150 miles total) in my car in this condition. This morning, I replaced the axle and ball joints. Now she's driving great. So in the end, I'm running a 2" lift in the rear and stock suspension in the front. Has a little bit of rake since the rear sits a bit higher, but not as much as you'd think. Running 27x8.5R14 tires (General Grabber AT2) on 14" Pug steelies. Rears are fine, and fronts rub a bit. The ball joint failures damaged the rear of the fender, which eliminates most of the rubbing back there. I've hammered the front fenders quite a bit, so they rub a bit in reverse (when turning) and at full lock. But these tires rock! Insane amount of traction, look awesome, and do pretty good offroad from what I can tell. Only downside is they are self cleaning at 30-40 MPH and stick out a bit from the body. What this means is these tires throw rocks against your car's body. Probably gonna paint bed liner on the bottom half of my car to prevent against rock damage. I also have a stock EA82, and it turns these tires fine. I was worried I wouldn't have the power to turn such big tires, but it's no different than hauling a couple hundred pounds in the back. I was also worried since I don't have power steering, but actually, it's EASIER to turn the steering wheel with these big tires. Weird, but I'm fine with it. Also running with my sway bar disconnected. I hardly even notice the difference, haha. Maybe swerving at highway speeds, but it's fun. Recently had "built" a roof "basket" out of some metal shelving. Made a spare tire mount out of a wood block and a spare stripped hub, in which I put a spare 14" Pug with a 26" tire (205/75R14). So I have a full size spare (er, very close to full size). In total, gained about 5" of clearance at the rear diff and 4" at the driver side door. Definitely makes quite a bit of difference. Sorry, pictures are sideways. Edited February 19, 2014 by jj421 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AWD J3wman Posted February 19, 2014 Share Posted February 19, 2014 New exhaust, cobbled together from many exhaust. Plus a donated borla muffler. That sounds awesome, is that even an EA82?! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
987687 Posted February 19, 2014 Share Posted February 19, 2014 That sounds awesome, is that even an EA82?! xt6 has the er27. 2.7L flat six that's basically an ea82 with half an ea82 tacked on the back to make it 6 cylinders. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooner Posted February 19, 2014 Share Posted February 19, 2014 Went on a mechanical adventure! So I tried lifting my EA82 wagon. Put the 2" lift on the rear no problem. Got it on there in less than an hour. The front though..... Could not get it on, whatsoever. Spent like 10-12 hours on it. Either you put the ball joint in, and can't get the lower control arm in. Or you put the lower control arm in, and can't get the ball joint in. Tried almost everything, but nothing helped. So the front went back to stock height. Leaving was fun too. I put everything back together (or so I thought). Put it in reverse, let out the clutch, and just heard a grinding kind of noise. Turns out the inner CV of my driver side axle separated. Had to put it in 4WD to move. Keep in mind, now it's 2-3 am and POURING down rain. At first, driving away was okay. Then once I got on the road, I touched the brake and the right front wheel locked up. It stayed locked until I came to a stop. Managed to limp in into a parking lot, only to find that my right front wheel had pushed against the fender and was doing it's own thing. A quick inspection later, I realized the ball joint came apart. My ball joints were complete crap, so I couldn't get the castle nut on there tight anyways. So now my ball joint is disconnected and the nut has fallen out on the road somewhere. I search through my tool box and could not find any nut big enough to fit on it. Luckily, I did find a lug nut for the stock EA82 wheels, which fit on there. Got it on there tight by removing the rubber boot and holding the ball joint still with my RoboGrips. Put the wheel back on and kept going. Still had the brake locking up issue. I managed to get into a parking space and shut her off. I'm soaking wet, shivering from the cold, an hour away from home, it's 3 am, I haven't eaten or drank anything in the past 24 hours, my body is sore from working on my car all day, and my car is broken. I gave up and just uncomfortable slept in the front seat of my car. Morning came, and I still had the brake issue. Drove around the parking lot a bit, and the front left ball joint decided to eject itself too. Turns out I forgot to put the pinch bolt back in. Luckily I kept the leftover hardware, so I put the pinch bolt back in. Still having the brake issue, I tried bleeding the brakes, which didn't work. I took off the right front wheel, and guess what? The brake caliper isn't bolted on. The top bolt is on there, but that's the only bolt on there and it isn't even tight. Luckily I had a spare caliper bolt in my car, as the bottom one was gone. Put that on and tightened both of them. But to my surprise, the long bolt that you can take out to access the pads was gone too. Turns out I had stupidly put that bolt in for the pinch bolt on the ball joint. Took it out, and put the proper bolt in for the ball joint. Put it all back together. Now, my car was finally driving alright. The axle is still broken, both ball joints are sketchy, and the brakes need to be bled. But I managed to limp it home. Drove about 75 miles home, avoiding freeways (for everyone's safety). Stopped by O'Reilly and purchased/ordered a new axle and two new ball joints. Had another catastrophic ball joint failure on the driver side, which I had to fix in the middle of the road (no shoulder and couldn't move the car, ergo couldn't get into a parking lot). In total, drove another 75 miles (150 miles total) in my car in this condition. This morning, I replaced the axle and ball joints. Now she's driving great. So in the end, I'm running a 2" lift in the rear and stock suspension in the front. Has a little bit of rake since the rear sits a bit higher, but not as much as you'd think. Running 27x8.5R14 tires (General Grabber AT2) on 14" Pug steelies. Rears are fine, and fronts rub a bit. The ball joint failures damaged the rear of the fender, which eliminates most of the rubbing back there. I've hammered the front fenders quite a bit, so they rub a bit in reverse (when turning) and at full lock. But these tires rock! Insane amount of traction, look awesome, and do pretty good offroad from what I can tell. Only downside is they are self cleaning at 30-40 MPH and stick out a bit from the body. What this means is these tires throw rocks against your car's body. Probably gonna paint bed liner on the bottom half of my car to prevent against rock damage. I also have a stock EA82, and it turns these tires fine. I was worried I wouldn't have the power to turn such big tires, but it's no different than hauling a couple hundred pounds in the back. I was also worried since I don't have power steering, but actually, it's EASIER to turn the steering wheel with these big tires. Weird, but I'm fine with it. Also running with my sway bar disconnected. I hardly even notice the difference, haha. Maybe swerving at highway speeds, but it's fun. Recently had "built" a roof "basket" out of some metal shelving. Made a spare tire mount out of a wood block and a spare stripped hub, in which I put a spare 14" Pug with a 26" tire (205/75R14). So I have a full size spare (er, very close to full size). In total, gained about 5" of clearance at the rear diff and 4" at the driver side door. Definitely makes quite a bit of difference. Sorry, pictures are sideways. Holy crap dude! Why were you so far from home and doing all this work? Sounds like an adventure all right, I had a front right wheel lock up before from driving and if I remember right it was either the hill hold or the E brake setup, that was no fun. Glad you made it home though that sucks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sdam87 Posted February 19, 2014 Share Posted February 19, 2014 I slid off the road and messed up my mud flap.. Yeah, productive with it today. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AWD J3wman Posted February 19, 2014 Share Posted February 19, 2014 xt6 has the er27. 2.7L flat six that's basically an ea82 with half an ea82 tacked on the back to make it 6 cylinders. That sounds brilliant! I havent looked into the ER27 but how reliable are they? especially after turboing them? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooner Posted February 19, 2014 Share Posted February 19, 2014 Just get a generic trailer adapter and wire it into the tail light harness. It's not really too complicated. The one I got was kinda crappy and it uses power from the light harness to run the trailer lights which causes the BRAKE light on the dash to come on when you hit the brakes. Other than that, it works fine. On a subaru I used to have, I made a trailer light controller with 4 or 5 relays. Essentially made an AND gate and an XOR gate, so there's that option, too. Now that I think of it, the wagon may have a place to plug in a trailer wiring harness. My sedan didn't, which is why I had to tap into the wiring harness. I bought the standard 4 pin harness and sat there scratching my head because the brake lights and blinkers are two different lights on the loyale when the 4 pin is for hooking up something simple like an 94' F150. So after thinking about it and looking at my trailer lights I decided to make my own damn harness with plugs. I used some dash connectors from inside of the donor legacy dash and ran two new wires on the trailer to the outside marker lights of the trailer lights to use them as blinkers. It worked great and then I covered all the wiring with black plastic loom, tested it and it never made the brake light come on when I hit the brakes. So I've just decided to do my own wiring and connectors on any trailer I buy. I even drove around the neighborhood with the boat just to get a feel for it. Summer shall be awesome. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
987687 Posted February 19, 2014 Share Posted February 19, 2014 (edited) I bought the standard 4 pin harness and sat there scratching my head because the brake lights and blinkers are two different lights on the loyale when the 4 pin is for hooking up something simple like an 94' F150. So after thinking about it and looking at my trailer lights I decided to make my own damn harness with plugs. I used some dash connectors from inside of the donor legacy dash and ran two new wires on the trailer to the outside marker lights of the trailer lights to use them as blinkers. It worked great and then I covered all the wiring with black plastic loom, tested it and it never made the brake light come on when I hit the brakes. So I've just decided to do my own wiring and connectors on any trailer I buy. I even drove around the neighborhood with the boat just to get a feel for it. Summer shall be awesome. That's the point of the adapter, because the brake and blinker are the same thing on the trailer, but separate on the car. The adapter takes those two inputs and makes them one output. It's really just some simple AND and XOR gates. That sounds brilliant! I havent looked into the ER27 but how reliable are they? especially after turboing them? About the same as an ea82, parts are harder to find/more expensive. Wouldn't put a turbo on one, though... Edited February 19, 2014 by 987687 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
86 Wonder Wedge Posted February 19, 2014 Share Posted February 19, 2014 Waiting for my parts to come in to make a USB to SSM cable so I can have factory diagnostics on the laptop! Much cheaper than the $400 or so people are asking for a semi-complete SSM setup.. O.o All in all, the parts only ran me $30... can't complain. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
987687 Posted February 19, 2014 Share Posted February 19, 2014 Waiting for my parts to come in to make a USB to SSM cable so I can have factory diagnostics on the laptop! Much cheaper than the $400 or so people are asking for a semi-complete SSM setup.. O.o All in all, the parts only ran me $30... can't complain. Can you elaborate more on that? That sounds really cool. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooner Posted February 19, 2014 Share Posted February 19, 2014 AND, XOR haven't heard of those since school! The way I did it will work out okay I think. Thanks for your input though! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
987687 Posted February 19, 2014 Share Posted February 19, 2014 AND, XOR haven't heard of those since school! The way I did it will work out okay I think. Thanks for your input though! Heh, if you put the brake and bliker inputs into an XOR gate, you'll get the correct output for the trailer light, it's really pretty simple to build one with a few relays. Or mosfets if you're feeling super fancy that day. But I design stuff, so yea. I think about these things more often than not Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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