porcupine73

I've been out of the Subaru loop for a while, but I think I recall someone saying that the notches on the back of the cam sprocket that the cam position sensor reads has to be the same on the old and new engine. I think some engines have a double notch and some have one, so the ECU has to match in order to interpret the cam position signal correctly.

They sure are bright and energy efficient. Does anyone find that their eyes feel like they're dry and burning after being under LED's for more than an hour or so?

It can be tricky to get rid of; people try various things. I had it on my '00obw but never got rid of it. I replaced the rear, then front sensors, with the genuine part, but the code would still come back. I would get the code only on really windy days. Make sure all your heat shields are in place is something others have mentioned. Since mine would only pop infrequently (when really windy every couple months) I just reset it, and normally at inspection time it was ok because I hadn't reset it recently. One thing I've seen mentioned is a spark plug non-fouler.

You may also need the LH camshaft sprocket (see other posts above).

The roof rails ways is probably better than inside, and I don't know if 48" wide will fit diagonally in the back or how that would work .. but in my '94 Legacy I hauled a sheet of 4'x8'x5/8" in the back. The loader helped me jam it in there diagonally as far as it would go, which was only like a bit over 1/3 of the way. He looked at me like I was crazy and I said com'n this can't be the craziest thing you've ever seen someone do here. Top 10 maybe. I rope the tailgate down over it and tied it. I was only going like 1/2 mile on a sidestreet from the lumber store so it wasn't too bad. The thing was so wedged in there I had trouble getting it out. And it scratched the heck out of the plastics. Then I went back and got a 2nd sheet. The guy wanted to put on the roof rack but those sheets were like 60+ lbs and I thought it would be too hard to get it off there myself. Pulling it out the back worked great, then I just had a furniture dolly there and wheeled it into the garage. I will definitely miss the cargo carrying ability in those. I carried a refrigerator back there one time, a full size upright freezer another time, with the tailgate fully closed. It was great.

'96 2.2L would have had the hydraulic lash adjusters. They can go bad. Someone had a nice write up on here (Haynes manual also describes it) or pulling the adjuster, and something like sticking a pin in the prime hole while pumping it in a dish of clean oil. Then a bunch of gunky stuff comes out. If it holds the prime after it's usually ok I think. Or there have been many posts saying adding Marvel Mystery Oil seemed to really help. Maybe it helps clean that junk out while the engine is running. My '96 had one or more adjusters that I think would bleed down after the car sat, but then after running for a while they would maybe prime back up and were quiet. I'm not sure.

Great photos, hoping the trip is going smoothly!

You're sure there's no air intake tubing that got unhooked? There's usually a hose to each valve cover and then if it's MAF based there's a slightly bigger one that goes to the iacv. Often when working on stuff one or more of those will come unhooked and not get noticed, which can cause issues because it lets unmetered air in (if yours has a MAF, that year/model I think still did with the MAP/speed density starting around 2000)/. I had a '96 Legacy 2.2L before, and yes that same scenario about the crankshaft position sensor happened to me.

Only one I really know about is the rear sway bar end links, I used Whiteline KLC26 on a '96 Legacy, I believe those will fit the Outback also.

I couldn't remember the answer to this - if someone in the past had put power steering fluid in it instead of ATF - does that make it do bad things maybe?

This diagram was for a DOHC but I think the bracket is similar if not the same (to maybe give a rough idea of the bolts):

Someone who has one would probably best know, but two spots I can think of are possibly if it has/had the adapter thingy on the oil filter mount that had two coolant lines on it, and the Forester turbo's I thought had an extra nipple on the water pump return, like one for the heater core return and then the other for something else possibly having to do with the turbo.

Yes you can get the bracket as part of a rebuilt caliper. It seems that most remans, but not all, include the bracket. I had that 'flaking' rotor problem but just assumed it was cheap steel / parts store rotors. The best rotors I had were just plain Centric which I got off Amazon and were inexpensive, those were great.

On mine it had a small yellow ring tab, like big enough for your pinkie. It was near-ish to the brake fluid reservoir as a landmark but yes having to kind of reach down in there maybe 6-8 inches below hoodline. It you don't see it, it is possible it is missing, like someone removed it and didn't put it back for some reason.

Hm does it change at all if you're applying the brakes at all like lightly --> firmly?