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^ this. although this thread seems like it’s missing the original post/question…

They slow you down bushy tails?

Turns out the IAC needed adjusting. Part of my problem (in my shop) is having too many parts laying around. This GL10 was a rebuild from the ground up and I had parts from my RX laying around also. Which means multiple IAC's to choose from (and not keeping stuff separated). So I grabbed the best looking one and cleaned it, then installed it on the GL. Only messed with it once, after getting the engine running, but knew too much fiddling is a bad idea. I got the car back to my shop last week and after going thru everything (again), I tried a little adjustment on the IAC. It worked like a charm, no more surging and fuel dump is almost gone. No more smoke after startup. It went home last night and the owner took it to work. He txt'd me and said it stumbles, shakes and farts at first, then runs better when its warmed up. I have the 2 10in fans on a switch now, the engine struggles to get to Op Temp but manages after several miles. Big reason is the radiator is a BIG 2 row aluminum rad (In prep for NA/T), so we may find a smaller rad to run temporarily. Now he needs to find another 5spd D/R trans as the current one is almost gone

I personally consider car alarms a nuisance that should be banned...

Or use a new gasket with a bit of silicone on both sides...

2008 still too new for me!

I decided to not get a the XT based on turbo failures. Often when looking at an XT for sale the seller would say something about the turbo just replaced. Also I didn't want to buy expensive premium fuel. I got a 2009 Subaru Outback special edition with 95,000 miles on it instead.

A friend of mine is getting two codes on a 2012 Tribeca Tans codes P0710 and P0700. They will clear but come back in a month or so. Clunk and then the codes show up, otherwise drives fine. What do you think?

Go to Ebay and buy longer and also high strength bolts. What you have in their now are the soft M6-1.0 x 13 mm long bolts. If you tighten them, they snap off. Go with the 10.9 high strength grade flare head bolts in the 16 mm length and tighten them up until you can't tighten them anymore. This will really cut back on the oil pan leaks. At the back of the oil pan, you can do some light grinding of the cross frame in order to get a 1/4" socket set in there with some swivel end attachments. It requires a 10 mm end socket and you would want the 1/4" version of that.

I found a NOS factory security system. I bought it for the novelty and don't know if I'll use it (maybe if I ever get an RXII). Car theft isn't an issue in my area, thankfully. P/N: SOA386R100 There's still a couple available on eBay, there's photos there. Has anyone had experience with this specific factory security system? I'm curious how it works if anyone knows. The switch labeled "shock" intrigues me. :]

small update - no photos. I bought a new subframe, can't put it off any longer and I'd really like to get this thing back on the ground on its own four wheels again sometime this year if I can. I'll likely need to end up buying or modifying the lateral linkages too, but like I've been saying - one thing at a time.

I'd be reading up on this generation. Any turbo'd Subaru is a gamble, IMHO. These had suspension, headlight bulb, along w/the turbo engine issues - Ringlands, VF40 turbo failures, etc. If you like to work on your cars - and can get parts in AK - they are a fun car...but maintenance intensive. They also had an HVAC/ICE/stereo integrated system so no easy HU upgrades.

Yeah- used - if AK has any options up there. Or RA for KYB struts - and you'll need a spring compressor. Pretty sure the good brands don't make (nor maybe anyone at this point) a full front or rear strut assembly for the 90s Legacy.

Hi, There should be many posts on here about the Duty C - used to be a daily/weekly topic on this forum as some of the mid-90's suffered a failure/issues. start here: It's located in the tailshaft (?) end of the transmission but can be replaced w/out dropping the trans, but is a project. Don't know your budget for the driveshaft, but I'd be OK buying used as I haven't read about this being a common failure. Should be the same part from '95/96-'99 for the Legacy - all Automatic (not manual) models.

A good selection of bulbs and sockets packed and ready to ship. I just need your name and address. I looked through the emails on my phone today and could not dig it up. I know you sent the info. Please resend to: Lmdew2@gmail.com

I have a bad vibration and knocking from the rear or centre of the car when accelerating. Through my process of elimination and visual inspections and pry testing I think the centre drive shaft support bearing is causing the bad vibration/knocking. I cannot find a drive shaft Intermediate support bearing, or an affordable drive shaft. So, I tried to switch my AWD to FWD only, but it appears the 'transfer duty solenoid' is not functioning. When I install the fuse to hold the solenoid switch in place the dash light says FWD but I still get acceleration power to the rear wheels/driveshaft. There is no vibration / knocking when coasting at any speed. So, I think, if I can it in FWD only my problem would be resolved, for a while at least. I cannot find a new replacement solenoid, so can anyone suggest where I can find or what I can do to run it in FWD only? And could someone tell me where the 'duty transfer solenoid' is located and is it easy enough for a mechanically minded DIY'r to replace?

Ordered 2 new Cardone axles from Walmart.com. They were actually way cheaper than RockAuto and had free shipping. Changed just the clicking driver side this afternoon. I only drove it enough to pull it out of my shop and into the next bay but I didn't hear any more clicks.

Thanks so much bushytails! Very much appreciated!

Went to get a pic... but the Hitachi dist in my '83 wagon is completely different. I found this googling, and it has a pic that should do it: https://ausubaru.com.au/viewtopic.php?t=21289 Black with white is positive, yellow is switched / coil negative / tach /etc.

Checking in to keep this string alive, I am wanting to get back to the brat with the addition of a canister in the loop but have been pulled away in other directions. A good goal for me is to close this issue in case it might help someone looking for solutions in the forum. First task will be to tighten up the trans shifter as it won’t let me get reverse. When putting the 2.2 in, I added some plastic sleeve material to the bore in the trans shift rod to take some of the slop where the ball end of the shifter seats, and didn’t see any bad wear in other sleeves but that didn’t work. I need to change the grease seal on the trans shift rod anyway. I think I’ve finally gotten the correct seal in hand. Fingers crossed, I can take care of these things and then get back to fuel vapor pressure and purge control. Thanks for advising.

Thanks for your help. PCV valve is working and the hoses are good and clean with no air leaks. Turns out that my oil filler cap was not sealing, so i fixed that. What I am not understanding is how a "too lean" exhaust [from poor crankcase ventilation] would cause smog test numbers to increase HC at the 15mph test??? Wouldn't "too lean" mean that less fuel is being burned? And, my ignition timing was at 27 ahead of TDC when that 2023 smog test was done. It is now at the correct 20 before TDC. Getting it smog tested in two days.

Hello, How do I open these links? I need the access tuner for a 2005 Subaru WRX but when I click on the links nothing will open.

You can use a cereal box to make those gaskets. Done it many times with no problems.

HNL - COS or Fort Collins, CO. Depends on the day. Happy to help.

Glad you’re on the mainland, Larry. Don’t think I need anything right now but as always it’s great that you’re there for us diehard old Subaru owners. Tip of the hat. Cheers!