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I added the charcoal canister between the gas tank and vapor intake on the 2.2, plumbing the vacuum valve per Bushytail’s advice. Viola, all is well. No more excessive tank pressure, no more bucking. An aside to the main topic: The shift mechanism on the old 4mt was fixed with tapping threads clean through the sleeve, and shift rod. Really is the ‘gold standard’ to fix this. For anyone still using the four speed. I sure took the long way around to get this fixed. Just couldn’t let go of the fact that the 2.2 ran fine with no canister in GL wagon. But many thanks to all here who helped me to get this Brat running right!

Oh that's probably what I was thinking of then. It's a 78 so it has the narrower case. if anyone has a narrow case and a wide case intake and could measure the width you would be a life saver. Dont wanna source the wrong one if possible haha.

Took an hour today to tack everything up and get started boxing stuff in. Small steps but I'm excited to get this part done.

Pretty sure there’s a current post on FB showing the DC intake equal in length to the single carb which make sense. There’s no difference in the block or heads so no reason to stretch the intake. Guessing you have a narrow case EA71 from 1979 and earlier. Beginning 1980 they get a wider case. Intake might still be the same, I’m failing to recall.

I bought a very weird wagon that has a custom intake on it using a pair of Solex 34PDSIT carbs. I've rebuilt the carbs and definitely have them synced up, had a buddy who is a god when it comes to multiple carb set ups help me out, and It still runs like absolute dog crap because of the terribly made intake. At this point I just want to swap back to the original intake and put a weber on it, but have no clue which intake to look for. I swear I saw somewhere on here that the dual carb intake is wider than the single carb intake, but cant find it for the life of me. Any help on this would be greatly appreciated. Thank you in advance

Skipping the story telling for a change. We’ll summarize with , time to move on. My focus is now entirely 1972/3 Coupe and stage one 4WD wagon. So I/we are unloading our stage two 1977-79 parts and more. Here is an entire shell sitting at a friend’s place that I now won’t be using. Ok here’s where you want to read carefully. Car is a brown 1978 4WD wagon as the title says. As it sits there is still a transmission in it that I want to keep. I can swap another of the same to you if you’re absolutely sure you’re going to need that transmission. If you’re doing the EJ or whatever upgrade you won’t want the old school transmission anyways. So be up front please. I don’t mind donating the proper transmission to you but I don’t want to make efforts I don’t have to. I’m old now. Wagon is sitting fairly stripped but I do still have all four doors. The hatch I think is still up there and I’ll likely let that go with it but just want to check before I say it definitely goes. Hood has been removed but I’ll haul it back there with the doors as long as I get a serious NON SCRAPPER committed. No engine in car. I have some if you want an old school 1600. We’ll deal with that after. No engine included but I’m very fair on price if you want one. No interior. And the dashboard is gone. At least one of the front seats is also gone. I have the rear upper and lower that came from it. Ceiling liner is there and last I saw it was near perfect. Bumpers are also off and not likely to return. Front wheels are off, and you’ll almost certainly want a trailer to haul this. The rear wheels are in it for now. It could easily be front lifted and dragged into a trailer. Again if you’re going to upgrade I’d like get the rear wheels and drivetrain back from you after you’ve got it home. Norwich CT up the street from the casino about a mile. Pretty easy to get to. So to recap you’d definitely get a wagon , four loose doors, one loose hood all of which came from that car, and likely the rear hatch too. No engine and only a swapped transmission if you let me know you want one. Rear of drivetrain is staying as well but if you don’t need it for your project I’d like the axles and wagon wheels.

I have not seen anything officially saying one way or the other. But I would also bet interference. Even the 2.2 went interference in '97ish. That said, I see the FSM has a specific note to use caution installing the timing belt on a 2.5, as incorrect timing could cause piston to valve contact, and there is no such note in the 3.0 timing chain section.... I don't think I've seen or known of one break a chain. I've heard timing chain noise several times before due to damaged/worn guides and/or tensioners. Not that it isn't possible, but I'd be highly skeptical that it just broke without making a bunch of noise. What Cam sensor code? P0340 is for cam sensor circuit, indicating a wiring issue or failed sensor, P0341 indicates good signal but out of time. I've had engines attempting to start with bad sensor data sound strange while cranking. If it broke on the highway, the valves are already bent. It'll turn over nicely now. Before you touch those cover bolts, definitely do a compression test. If it fails that, I would drop the exhaust and look up the ports at the valves you can see (IIRC the front valves are hard to see through the single exhaust ports), and then crank it again to see if you can hear the compression blowing out the exhaust. If you have cylinders with no compression, but the offending valve cover and check to see if the buckets move freely and smoothly. While a stuck valve won't prevent a bucket from moving all the way out, there won't be any spring pressure on it. I believe you can see the bank 2 chain through the oil filler cap. Drop the oil into a clean pan and look for debris. Cut open the filter for the same. I would expect to see considerable metal in the oil if the chain has been failing. Maybe even drop the lower pan and look for bigger pieces of debris. I have an 01 H6 with no compression on cylinder 3. It all blows out the exhaust. I removed the valve cover and can move the valve buckets/springs freely with a prybar, resistance and movement feels identical on all 6 exhaust valves on that side (I believe if the valve wasn't closing all the way, the spring/bucket would not return all the way). It will still run, just super rough. I believe it to be a burned valve. And I will almost certainly swap in a used engine before I bother pulling everything apart enough to replace a valve. I have a couple known good high mileage engines. Or maybe try to get a JDM, although those are a lot less common/cheap than they used to be.

How many miles on it? And what’s the service interval for the timing chain? Easiest way to determine whether your suspicions are on the right track is to do a compression test. If there’s a cam timing issue I’d expect one bank to be far lower than the other. If a chain let go, I’d expect some sort of grinding/crunching noise of the broken chain and spinning components when cranking the engine over. If the chain is intact, it could be a tensioner let the timing chain skip some teeth. Either way, if this is the issue, I see some very un fun times ahead. Last thought: check the cam sensor and rule out that there are any issues there. Cam timing sensor is used for spark and injector pulses from my understanding. This could change the engine tone/noise when trying to start. All the best

No, this is a real-world problem. Car died very suddenly on the highway (en route home from the glass shop with a brand-new windshield after a windstorm+tree took it out. Such is my life these days.) and the symptoms are: Cranks, but sounds different, like less stuff than normal is turning; cam position sensor error. That it's turning at all seems like somewhat good news, as that suggests I don't have a piston wedged against a valve, though it doesn't mean there wasn't a hit. Hence the question. So my first guess is a thrown chain (the EZ30 has two). But since then (last week), winter has set in here for real - it's subzero, we're under a foot of snow, and the car is not (yet) in my (unheated) garage, where I'll have to pull the 64-bolt timing cover in order to confirm my suspicion. And first I've gotta bolt a winch onto the far garage wall so I can pull it in...

Pre-holiday update - went a little further with what I'm jokingly calling the subsubframeframe. I'm building up a small weld-in subframe/frame extension to locate and mount the impreza sheet metal number to. Fairly straightforward for the most part - to keep the parts somewhat simple I've had to clearance cut parts of the tubing to be able to maintain the ability to construct it out of straight tubes and right angles. Bends may be a slightly more robust approach with less material, but my fixturing capabilites are somewhat limited. Sometimes I think I'd give a kingdom for a good welding fixture table, but then again my brain works pretty well designing and fabricating this way so for now I'll use what I've got. This assembly looks to me like it will end up fairly robust. A couple more brace pieces to guard against torque / shearing are in process, and all open ends and channels I've cut are all going to get boxed in prior to final assembly and welding. I'll also be adding a few more pieces on the top to both provide more footprint for welding to the truck and to center everything between the original frame rails. I gotta go dig out my box of fasteners from the disassembly process and see if I still have the bolts from the impreza suspension and subframe, because next up is getting some threads welded in. I think I labeled everything but things got hectic in the last few days before its removal so I'm going to have to see what's still around.

Got the Mail. Thanks, some interesting stickers. Hope the socket/bulb package provided a solution.

I've been driving around with the vacuum gauge installed for a few days and here's what I've found (other than the constant roller coaster hills in my area destroy my fuel economy). On a cold start the vacuum seems quite low (13-15 inHG) and it flutters (correlating with a rough idle on cold start) within a range of 1-1.5 inHG. After the engine is at full operating temp, at idle it'll sit quite steadily at 20 inHG. However, my idle has a rhythmic roughness where the vacuum will drop about 1 inHG and it'll flutter slightly more when it drops. The rhythm is about 2 seconds smooth idle then 1 second rough idle, smooth, rough, smooth, rough, etc. My vacuum seems on the low side so I'll get some fuel pressure gauges spliced in and see if advancing my timing to the factory spec of 20 BTDC smooths anything out. Any ideas or thoughts are appreciated. :]

Thats nuts Jeszek! I miss my wagons! -Justin

Thanks again, I will check out that bearings. I will do this job in the first week of December I think. Gotta order parts soon.

Awesome trips as usual. Still loving your pics of creatures in your environment. It baffles me how many ppl head out bush and don’t look at what’s around them, especially the small animals! Good to hear both vehicles went well for you! Interesting about that auto input shaft snapping, not seen that before!

Impreza has still been wandering a bit so I wanted to replace a couple of the lateral link bushings and CV boots. Got a bunch of Group N bushings so I'd have some on the shelf for future repairs. With the billet knuckles and dog leg trailing arms and the stainless studs in place of the long bolts it's a much easier job than it used to be, didn't take me long to get both axles out. One thing I've been wanting to address almost from the beginning of this swap is the slop in the rear diff stubs. The combination of slop in the diff splines and the splines for the female axles allows the inner CVs to move around more and have more backlash than normal. The splines for the inner CV were worn on the stubs that have been in the car for a couple years now. I peened a pair of them like the one in the bottom of this picture. I tried pressing them first to squish the splines but that did nothing. This may not last long as a means of reducing the slop but I figured it was worth a try. B swapped out a couple of the lateral link bushings and cleaned up the long studs. He also shorted a couple of the inner bolts that were rubbing on the inner CV boots. I regreased and rebooted a couple CVs and replaced one axle. Once we got it all back together one CV had basically no slop on the splines, the other one still had some but less than before. While we were under there I decided to refab the section of exhaust that hangs under the subframe. Cut out that flattened section and replaced with 2.5" x .095" 4130. Actually has clearance to the CV joint now. We also came up with an initial plan for mounting the extra fuel tank. Can't wait to get that hooked up. B unbolted the top of the radiator and pulled it back the little it can move with the radiator hoses on it, then he blasted a bunch of crap out from between the radiator and condenser with compressed air. I want to get/make some different nozzles for doing that more effectively, should probably at least check that regularly. Still hoping that getting the puller fans on the primary fan circuit and the pusher fans on the secondary fan circuit will help.

My recent 11/10/2025 test report page says 15mph@1824 rpm. And 25mph@2100 rpm. RPMs seem close to what they should be. The ignition timing read 18 BTDC. The engine burns no oil. It has maybe 6k miles on the rebuilt engine. The EGR valve holds its vacuum. So, I'll re-check all of the vacuum hoses. But that egr temp sensor has me wondering. And hey, thanks for your input.

What revs was the engine doing at each of these readings, and same gear/load? That could tell you a lot about what’s going on in your engine.

True. On the flip side I’d rather a known fact that it’s NON-interference than a bet that it is. I’m 99% sure the last non interference engine Subaru produced was the gen1 EJ22E. The Gen2 EJ22E used roller rockers that helped bump the compression ratio for better power but the downside was the engine became an interference engine. Since the H6 is chain driven, interference or non-interference shouldn’t be an issue unless you’re trying to settle a pissing competition between you and a mate.

I don't think I've ever seen a car with front parking brakes so you should be fine on that aspect. Probably a good idea to remove any abs sensors from the hub beforehand to avoid damaging them. Also avoid overtightening them when installing. If you get both wheels off the ground, test the bearings. Hold onto the spring while turning the wheel by hand to feel any vibrations, they should feel similar on both sides. Unhook the sway bar links to get that extra clearance on lower control arms

If true, that means you have a *very* marginal ignition system, and probably should check plugs, wires, cap, rotor, etc.

No codes. We know that EGR will affect NO (ppm). Now, I did pass California smog last week, but I am curious why the NO (ppm) @15mph was reading a whole lot higher than NO (ppm) @25mph. This last test showed 800 ppm @ 15 mph and 67 ppm @ 25 mph. Am unsure whether or not EGR needs looking into.

Just posting an update in case anyone else runs into this. As I said earlier My 83 Brat had a Nippondenso distributor [Cardone 31-812]. I swapped it out with a Hitachi [Cardone 31-810]. This solved the problem with losing spark at 2-2500 RPM. Thanks to all who gave advice.

Thanks for the tip with the ball joint. I think they are different in 2018. The first step (which I missed) is to use the OBD scanner, and in the menus, select to release all the pressure. What happens is that the parking brake electronically unscrews itself to release all pressure off the rotor. Then you do the brake job. At the end, you use the scanner to reset the electronic parking break to normal position. The guy I was working with showed in a good trick to mechanically release the EPB with a socket or allen head. Good hack for sure, I used it several times. I ended up at the dealer trying to get all the dashboard lights off. That is why with the newer cars I just want to make sure I am not stepping into the abyss.

Was an issue with under voltage once the battery was fully charged it went away