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  2. I would replace both belts to be on the safe side, and be sure to check your tensioners while they are off. With the flywheel at the center III mark, line up the passenger side cam sprocket timing mark with the notch in the rear timing cover. Should be straight up. Put the belt on and adjust tensioner to proper setting then tighten the bolt. Now rotate the crank 1 full revolution. You should be back at the center III mark, with the passenger cam sprocket now pointed straight down. Line up the driver cam sprocket timing mark with the notch in the back cover (straight up). Put the belt on and then adjust the tensioner to spec then tighten the bolt. Now I usually rotate the crank atleast 2 full revolutions by hand, then realign the center III mark on the flywheel and check the cam marks. One should be straight up aligning with the notch in the back cover, and the other straight down. Recheck belt tension and you are good to go. Also, the cam seals can be done in the car as they are removed from the front as an assembly. Simply pull the timing covers (which you will already have off), then both cam sprockets have to be removed. You will need something to hold the cam sprockets in place when you break the bolts loose to remove them. I would recommend lining up the sprockets as if you were doing the timing belts first, or atleast mark them in reference to the back cover for when it is reinstalled. Remove the back timing covers on both sides, then you can pull the cam seal housing off (3 bolts if I remember correctly). This is also the best time to check that water pump in the vehicle. There is an o-ring on the pipe that seats in the side of the water pump your hose connects to that is notorious for leaking on these. You can also check for excessive free play or rough bearings in the pump, along with any potential leaks. That o-ring would be my first suspicion. Then simply reinstall your cam seal housings, back covers, cam sprockets, and the timing belts as mentioned above. Another note, since you had one of the belts break, if you get your timing belts aligned and then go to start it and it fails to start, don't fear just yet. You may have to rotate the distributor 180 degrees ( it may be 180 degrees out of time. This sometimes happens with these when a belt breaks and the belts are replaced opposite of how they where before. Ex. pass belt was straight up, driver straight down before, now pass straight down, driver straight up). This is a non interference engine so even if you slip up somewhere, you shouldnt damage valves, piston, etc like interference motors. Best of luck with it, and keep enjoying that vehicle. They are awesome.
  3. You could be right about the tensioner(s). If that's it, I'll get it cleaned up, that's for sure. I'll be using the whole kit. Engine swaps would be great, but I just don't have the room or help to get it done. Sounds cool, though I'm ok with trying the open belts, but I wonder about road debris like rocks or whatever. Also, I will be doing this with the engine in the car. I assume I can do the cam seals in the car, which necessitates taking off the cam pulleys, which would let me take off the whole shebang of covers. I've watched the Miles Fox vids- over and over! Good stuff.. Good tips. I'll try to work the belts on with as little movement as possible. I actually saw the marks first when I rotated the engine a little CCW when trying to get the crank pulley bolt out. I then rotated it CW and found the ignition and cam timing marks. I appreciate the tips! Looks like along with guys from the US, a few Australians and a member from England are still running the old Subarus, which is pretty cool.
  4. xXArchusXx

    Subaru XT na help!!

    the blend door hot to cold was one cable and had to take the center console up, there was a lot of sludge. it took 2hour. should the ebrake plate be diagonal? the top lights dont turn on when you press them. The drivers seat has a cable under it what does that go to? the windows take forever to move, and the passenger only moves with the engine on. the back seats should fold down right? What is the speed warning switch? where can i get a digital copy of the owners manual? iin cleaning the interior tomorrow.
  5. Not all of them. Our 95 EJ22 has hydraulic lifters and is listed as non-interference. Our 97 "had" solid adjustable and was interference. I swapped 95 heads onto it. I later found out that I could have just swapped the rocker assy. instead. But I had already swapped the dual port Y-pipe with the heads.
  6. The belts tend to move the pulleys when you put them on, so make sure the cams are still pointing up when you are done installing. Also you could in theory put a mark 180* from the oe on the passenger side, but it isn't worth it. Takes no time to rotate the engine. Also make sure you use the right timing marks on the flywheel. There are 2 sets and they are different. Also if its rusty use some sandpaper to remove it. The marks are stamped pretty deep so you wont remove them easily.
  7. I too agree with running open belts. Here is the link to the video i watched to learn how to instal the timing belts correctly. I hope you got the kit and replace all the tensioners idleers and all that. you will be glad you did. MIles Fox is a Subaru Mechanic that shows you how to do these things at home with minimal tools. best of luck man...
  8. Ionstorm66

    Upper rear differential bushing

    Saves you from pulling the axles and drive shaft. Makes it a sub 1 hour job.
  9. I got a 4 wheel alignment at both places. They checked and adjusted the rear. After the rear drivers has like 0.3 camber there is in the yellow. Dude said it wasn't enough for the pull I had anyway. I'm thinking bent front strut or maybe bad bushings. It has to be something that happens under load.
  10. So I changed the oil today and put a Mobil-1 20,000 mile / 1 year filter on it and full synthetic oil. My plan is to probably change it in after 10,000 miles because I figure nothing every lasts as long it suggests and just monitors the oil, checking color and level until then. I'll let you all know if the seafoam causes any trouble. Thank you all for commenting on this thread. I've just started working on my cars and I highly value all the input you guys have taken time to write.
  11. Yesterday
  12. Step-a-toe

    Upper rear differential bushing

    Nice work. Interesting to see you use the Australian idea of milk crate !
  13. Are you using a factory manual? If you are, find the diagnostic flow chart to see what it suggests. Someone found these two pin knock sensors on eBay in last year for ten bucks. To buy one here from dealer I think was about $900 ten years ago. I looked through the auto trans diagnostics for your symptoms of three speed auto - nothing
  14. I am surprised Bennie gave three lines before plugging an EJ conversion ! Are EJs free spinners? IE no bendy valves if belt slips or breaks
  15. If you are in the fb subaru group, I think I posted pictures of how to do the rear alignment there.
  16. Replace both belts and tensioners. It might not be an old belt that “just snapped”, it could be a seized tensioner wheel that melts the cambelt and makes a huge mess. If there’s any melted rubber on the crank or cam wheels, clean this off - ALL of it! It’s not fun. Best bit about the EA82 cam belt job is you can’t stuff the engine as they’re non interference. The other option (and I have to say this partly for shits and giggles) is to EJ it. Then your L will be really fun! Cheers Bennie
  17. You don't need the alternator or the water pump for 10 seconds. I stopped installing the covers years ago, after watching a number of members run without covers for years, with no problems. I've caught idler bearings before they fail and take out a belt since. Also, I suspect the belts run cooler with all the air blowing over them, and seem to last longer. I would replace both belts. The cam pulley has the timing mark up, aligned with the notch in the back cover when you are putting the belt on. Only on the side you are installing at the moment. The cam you are not working on doesn't matter. It's a kind of double check, that once you do the single revolution on the crank, the one that has the belt will be down. The 2 cam marks will always be 180 degrees opposite each other.
  18. Rear tyre toe in/camber shot on the side that scrubs the tyres out? They say they’re non adjustable but the rear camber/toe in is changeable from the three bolts on the outer swing arm. I need to do mine but haven’t worked out how to do it with tyres on etc - or how to measure it. I have other issues to sort out first! Also, no lift in this rig? Cheers Bennie
  19. Thanks, I suggested she call you. Good option even though its a days trip south.
  20. the interior lights dont turn on at all even if you flick the switch, but the trunk light turns on tho.
  21. Nothing I recognize. Spring clamps suggest it's in the vent line. What vehicle is this?
  22. This is so much like when I found the slightly bent strut.
  23. UnorganizedMechanic

    Right pull persisting after alignment+tires

    If the brakes grab and release properly, the tires spin freely when off the ground and the alignment is within specs yet still pulling, try cross-rotating the front tires. It's possible tire conicity is causing the problem. Edit, just re-read the OP. You've had the problem before and after replacing 4 tires. Sorry about that. But who knows, maybe. Good luck.
  24. We do the HG's, timing, and radiator/hoses for $2750 Axles - there's choices but I prefer to use new OEM axles - they tend to be around $400 each. I can get Chinese one's that aren't terrible for half the price but you don't get the longevity out of them. If we were doing a HG replacement I would only charge one hour for install of both. GD
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