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  2. Subarule might try contacting a warehouse like Hanson Distributing: http://www.hansondistributing.com/ Or another like it nearer to home in WA state. Find an independent parts store to do business with, not an O'Reilly's or other big box store. Someone with a paper catalog - not an e-catalog. Hanson supplied for a few of the independent auto parts stores in SoCal that I've dealt with for many years. Ernie's Auto Parts, which used to be in another location, is within the same warehouse, but since the experienced senior parts manager retired it's just not the same.
  3. Today
  4. I inspected the neutral safety/inhibitor switch and the two holes lined up pretty good but I loosened up all three screws and turned it counterclockwise as far as it goes. It was almost there anyway. Holes are perhaps even better aligned now. My daughter is working on getting her drivers license so we took the car out for a 2 hour drive and had no issues with the shifter getting stuck in park or the starter motor not working. So hopefully this solved the problem.
  5. Lost my turn signals tonight. Fairly confident the relay failed but where is it located?
  6. Hello. First time owning an automatic subaru. The car is a 97 imprezza outback sport. I hope this is the right area of the forumsThe issueSlight torque bind when tight turns at low speedAt oil temp flashing 16 times at startup (cleared code)Code shows up immediately again after next startup.Fwd fuse inserted and no fwd light inside.I checked the ob85(i think it's called) 2 long flash 4 fast (24)Anyways so I'm pretty sure it's the duty c solenoid is bad. My question is can i disconnect the back half of drive axle and use it as a fwd car would that fix it from wearing until i am able in month or two to work on the solenoid once it gets warmer or will this cause damage to the rear. I'm ordering these for the job and will do it as soon as possible if the general consensus is I'll cause damage by removing half the drive shaft. It's just pretty cold out and i have no days off for the next while and i need to drive a vehicle.Thank you in advance for all the future help. nearest exxon
  7. EGR. There is a solenoid mounted on the intake. It is controlled by the ECU. It disables the EGR until the engine is up to normal operating temperature, as determined by the ECU reading the CTS. The solenoid causes the EGR valve to stay closed when disabled, or open depending on the vacuum system. The EGR valve hangs off the back of the intake on the passenger side. Vacuum applied to it's hose barb pulls it open. IF the solenoid coil is open, the ECU will detect it, and blink a code on the LED on the ECU. I have never had an open solenoid coil cause any drive ability problem. OEM solenoids are notorious for failing open. I replace them with Toyota solenoids. If you follow the hose from the EGR valve to the solenoid, the other hose on the solenoid could be pulled off and blocked to stop air from sucking into the manifold. The car might be a little more inclined to experience knock, make more emissions, but otherwise run ok. That test would isolate if you had a leak in those few pieces.
  8. Some photos of the intake ports; I removed the hood, wipers and the 4 center plastic insets holding the two plastic screens in place. It's a shame Subaru didn't screen off those ports. Would keep the drivers side port closed - AC position for any vehicle being stored to block mice access.
  9. Yesterday
  10. those wires are going to be about 99% of your issue. They are JUNK. This has been discussed MANY times over the years. They might be fine for a ford, chevy or dodge, but NEVER for a Subaru. Get them off the car and replace with either genuine Subaru wires, or the appropriate NGK brand wires.
  11. maybe some photos would help
  12. I am looking for a Gen 1 glove box part. It's the simple "arm " that screws onto the glove box door and inserts into the front of the frame. It keeps and supports the glove box door from bending open too far. It's just a flat/curved piece of steel. Anyone? Send me your price and stamp to 76039 Much appreciated, Todd
  13. GeneralDisorder

    KYB Shocks & Struts Question

    2WD fronts seem to be around still. Probably not manufacturing them but still sitting in warehouses. Don't see any rears and the 4WD fronts are long gone. GD
  14. How did you determine it isn't working? The auto's are 90% FWD till the TCU sees a difference in the two speed sensors. Scope the signal to the duty-c solenoid. GD
  15. kayakertom

    EA82 CV Axle Heat Shield

    I added a heat shield - mounted to the cat a few years ago and haven't had a problem with the rubber boot.
  16. It's the 2" ADF lift. I have not lowered the crossmembers. My struts are also starting to get worn if that would affect it.
  17. Hm I'm not sure honestly. On flat ground it does seem like the Passenger front side is angled more like someone is sitting in it.
  18. My 93 legacy awd is not workin I have changed out the transmission all axles and the rear end and it still is not working. The fwd fuse when in the fwd light comes on and goes off when taken out. Is there something else I can check? I would have thought swapping everything out would have fixed the problem. Everything worked great when it was in the other car.
  19. all right new chapter to my story briefing : still running with the iac valve motor unhooked, changed the cts for a brand new oem one. did a vaccum test yesterday with a diy smoke machine, to found a leak on what look like to be the egr vaccum modulator (look like a thermostat) and some other vaccum line wich i have fix, (replaced the egr vaccum modulator with an extra one that was on the extra intake manifold that came with the car) edit egr valve ? nothing changed, but ! now that the snow finally finished melting and that my drive way is dry ive come to realize that i have a fuel leak near the fuel tank. It only leak once the car is started and i can hear a good hissing sound (vaccum leak i presume) coming from the leaky area near the tank so now how do i proceed, how do i test the egr system ? etc etc thx ! only thing i havent done that i think could be the culprit is tchek tps and maf with volt meter and tchek tps idle screw proper gap since im not to sure where is the gap to check, and also some more info on the fuel system ( pressure reading check valve return line filter location etc ) would be really appreciated thx. im re reading myself and it sound really hard to follow up with me but hey ! i still have hope XD
  20. Ill report back in a few days to let you guys know if it actually fixed it
  21. Swapped the maf out for a spare i had on the shed and now its only +/- .08 Wasnt a dirty maf but a bad one.
  22. Is the lift in the rear, pushing the front end down ?
  23. Do you have AAA? It’s one of the best deals I know of. Here in Texas at least if you get the premium level, which is about 120 a year if you allow automatic renewal on your card, they give you 4 tows a year, one of which can be 200 miles. I’d look on their site and see the cost and deals they have in your state. It’s a reall great service too they’re very prompt and if you tell them they bring out a flatbed and take it to your mechanic if you designate that. I’ve often had a tow where they came out in the country from Houston 75 miles and took me that far back.
  24. Luckily my car is a 95 so I don’t really have to worry about tb failure. But especially for the ones that do, 96 on etc...
  25. Well yeah but since my concept of the timing belt change being as comprehensive as possible was so you didn’t have to do anything again for as long as possible, that’s why I included it. My 95 I bought from a guy was really great and had all maintenance records back to the original owner, I was the third. But when I went through them I found that the water pump or a tb pulley had failed at about 65k, and the subaru dealer they took it to replaced the water pump, the belt, thermostat, and ONE pulley. I mean who would do that, when they only charged 10 for the pulley? Why not just do them all? So I inherited at 140k a car with one newer pulley etc. my point is you have to do so much work taking off the front of the engine to do the tb, you might as well just replace everything with best parts aisin kit etc, and then not worry for another 100k. the only other thing I’ve not done is the oil pump, I’d do that too. but I actually do believe they replace the coils and gaskets. There’s a whole industry now of refurbished fuel parts. I wish I had done it then I did have one fail on me. Just ideas. Nothing hard and fast. ’97
  26. My 92 Loyale with a 2" lift has the front passenger CV axle rubbing on the frame and the boots keep tearing. What should I check out first? Already gone through 3 Axles in 3 months...
  27. Is this the seller on Ebay? https://www.ebay.com/itm/For-Subaru-DL-GL-GL-10-Loyale-New-Pair-Front-KYB-Excel-G-Shocks-Struts/323681662310?hash=item4b5cee3566:g:HikAAOSwYwZcWWU~ Another seller, bapperformance(wonder if seller 'borrowed' from old BAP-Geon name): https://www.ebay.com/itm/KYB-Shocks-Struts-Strut-233022/163577113805?epid=75415354&hash=item2615f4accd:g:RlwAAOSwOzBcfF6p https://www.ebay.com/itm/KYB-Shocks-Struts-Strut-233023/173820709585?epid=74420540&hash=item2878858ad1:g:SJYAAOSwyQJcfF3U If so, these are for 2wd cars, not 4wd. You'll lose ride height with 2wd struts. Search for Monroe or Sachs front struts.
  28. Unless you have reason to suspect an injector has failed, it's not really necessary. Not on an N/A car anyhow. They very rarely fail. "rebuilt" likely just means cleaned and flow tested. I doubt the coils and needle valves are serviced/replaced. So basically run some fuel cleaner through it and you've done the same thing and saved $95.
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