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  2. idosubaru

    I've got EJ25 EGR question

    Huck - this is what I do. Check engine light doesn't matter so I just install a non-EGR engine and run it. Plug and play, runs like a top. You can also install the EGR intake manifold - and just run a hose from the EGR port on the drivers side to the IAC hose on the passengers side (install a T-fitting there) and you won't get a check engine light and no need to drill the block.
  3. Today
  4. el_freddo

    1983 GL Wagon build thread

    Use your MY flywheel. You’ll have to dremel out the mounting holes. OR: have a machine shop fill the current holes and redrill for the EJ crank bolt pattern. I’ve seen it done on the forum before. You’ll also need an adaptor plate. And I hope you got the wiring loom and computer for the engine too. You’ll need that! I know that engine as the EJ22E, could be the same as the EJ222, but I don’t know. What I do know is that it’s an awesome engine and you’ll love it in your beast. Expect gearbox to become a loose gearbag in no time flat... start working on the gearbox replacement now. Cheers Bennie PS: also have a read of this file, it’ll tell you exactly what you need in parts and what you need to do for the conversion http://www.mediafire.com/file/edqqit6xq9tthx6/Numbchux+EJ+to+EA+Swap+Guide.pdf
  5. el_freddo

    XT coupe air struts.

    ^ understatement! @Giles, that replacement piece you’ve made is NEAT! I don’t think there would be many over here that would go to this effort in their backyard/shed/driveway etc. keep up the good work! Cheers Bennie
  6. Al Zhiemer

    Brat LHD to RHD conversion?

    From previous experience importing GTR's into Australia, it isn't all that difficult but the taxes... They were the bloody killer!!! Shipping and insurance wasn't so bad if you go roll on/roll off, shipping in a container can get pretty bloody expensive. All up including shipping, taxes and compliancing, it usually added an extra $5,000 - $10,000. Back then, if it cost you $18,000 to buy the car, it usually owed you between $25,000 and $28,000 landed and ready for market. After it was all said and done, there was at least $7,000 min. profit per car so it wasn't a bad way to make a few extra bucks on the side and drive some really cool cars :-) What was also another killer that I almost got caught out on the first time was RWC items. Rediculously, when a vehicle comes into Australia and goes through compliancing/RWC, if items need to be replaced, they must be replaced with factory original items. So things like brakes can become a real issue, GTR's being fitted with Brembo brakes, it meant they had to be fitted with factory Nissan items or Brembo original pads and rotors only. Aftermarket pads and rotors were not acceptable. Back then, they were talking figures of between $1,750 and $2,500 and upwards for new pads and rotors and god help you if you needed calipers rebuilding. That quickly chews into the profit margin. Especially if there were any other faults that needed attending to. Now we have no vehicle manufacturing left in Australia, its going to be very interesting to see if the plans to open up the importation laws as much as they reckon go ahead. There are some WAY cool cars in Japan just begging to be brought to Australia. Oh... And speaking of roo's writing cars and themselves off. I've hit several over the years, been lucky to get away with minor damage in all of them bar one. And you guessed it, nailed one in my own personal 97 R33 GTR V-Spec II. Nothing I could do about it, halfway through a bend, came out of no where and bang. I can remember watching his legs fold over the bonnet, his body slam into the bonnet and thinking to myself, "spoob, he's about to come through the windscreen". Sat back in my seat as far as I could, closed my eyes and waited for the glass shower to stop. How he never hit me I will never know, the complete drivers half of the windscreen was completely missing, regurgitated grass was all through the car everywhere!!! Took weeks to get that spoob off the dash and out of the seats. All up, complete front end including rad support panel, left and right headlights, bonnet, wiper arms, windscreen and also damage to the roof where it got peeled back a couple of inches as the Roo went over the roof. All up from memory, about $15,000 in parts and labour to repair my pride and joy. And yes ladies and gentle man, all that damage was caused by hitting one of those big bastards at 100 km/h - 105 km/h. Thankfully at the time I had GPS proving that for the whole 700 km trip up until that point, I hadn't exceeded 115 km/h. And FFS don't hit a wombat, those fuckers will really ruin your day!!! Sorry, off topic I know. Cheers, Al
  7. As I say. i have no idea yet as to the working of the air struts. what you say makes perfect sense, regarding hi and low internal switch. i don’t have a FSM for the car. would love the pages on Air suspension emailed sometime. g.
  8. MWLoyale

    Motor Mounts EA82

    I did not, i ended up buying a pair off ebay that ended up being westar brand. I paid cheap for em, i think $40 for money saving purposes. I just got an ea82 block with 101k from upullit from an 89 dl and i plan on using group n mounts on that. I would have no hesitation suggesting using group n mounts on an ea82, but i havent done it so i cant be sure. Like G said, it only requires a hole to be drilled. The mounts look identical other than the extra stud on ej mounts.
  9. Daniel Stern may still have a website devoted to auto headlights. I have seen one type of LED aftermarket that had a cone on which the led was 'back firing', seemed to be trying to duplicate a properly oriented line source.....? And, some I think have set screws so you can rotate them to try to create a good cut-off line. Dumping the heat is yet another problem for some folks. There's a little fan or some heatsink - some flexible - that sometimes requires deleting or modifying any rear cover on the light assembly Morimoto or other HID projector upgrades are often considered better than LED.. if any position on the car uses 9005 or 9006 bulbs, there's a 'hack' allowing use of HIR bulbs (Toshiba?) 9011 and 9012 - supposedly about 20% brighter. Just filing a tab down so the bulb will bayonet into the holder. there may be some good youtube video comparisons on this subject.
  10. Would it be any easier to make an adaptor for where the bearing assembly bolts to the hub? 07 outback front: 07 outback rear:
  11. Thank you FerGloyale and Cougar! I had checked the charge fuse and it looked ok, so I'll move onto grounding the B/W wire and let you know the results. Thanks again, Gardener
  12. Yesterday
  13. sparkyboy

    Tire size for Loyale

    Mine are oem from the junkyard, I believe from a sube cause I was all happy, me and then gf just got the 86 and when I showed her she flipped. The aftermarket ones have those rounded edges, I have one on my camaro. But look, these Mustang II covers will fit if the inside part is cut out for the lug nuts!
  14. Delving in a little deeper, I wish to swap my Legacy trailing arm brackets for Legacy Outback ones when I do the lift. I see part number 20520AA030/040 for a Legacy Sedan, and 20520AC030/040 for Outback Wagon / SUS on the JP-carparts website amongst others. I Assume that the ##AC## number part would be the one I need for a correct lift using Outback struts on my Sedan. I don’t want to order from Japan what I already have on the car! Hopefully these parts would be ‘taller’. Thank you in advance for any confirmation/ pointers Mitchy
  15. alexbuoy

    1982 Brat Wheeler Build

    Went on some trails in big bear. Also checked out an XT6. He only wanted 500 for it but it was an autotragic.
  16. After spending a lot of time looking at the thermometer in the tank, it occurred to me that if it were an ecu input, it should be 5v or less. I found a diagram of the ECU pinout, and there is a pin #25 labeled for fuel temp sensor. Backprobed it and found 4.99v. Tried a 1k resistor to ground, and it pulled voltage to 2.13. ECU bought it immediately. Removed resistor, and P0183 returned. Put resistor back in, and code cleared and stayed clear. There must be another sensor somewhere, but the thermistor is for low fuel light only. I'll post a diagram shortly.
  17. It's a good point. The illumination from a handful of point sources isn't going to be as uniform as that from a single filament. Again, though, I think the only way to find out how much and what kind of difference it means is to try them.
  18. Your argument would hold water if we were talking about glass, but if these headlights were made of glass, we wouldn't be having this conversation, because the headlights wouldn't suffer UV degradation. Okay, they might, but over the span of hundreds of years, not a few. You know perfectly well that plastics don't behave as do glasses, and that not everything just sits on the surface. Plastics absorb. Which, unfortunately, doesn't really answer the question I asked. Apparently the only way to get a nuanced answer is to get a set and try them out. And btw, we have elk here too - but they don't behave at all like the deer. They travel in pretty big herds, when they cross the road they take their time, and there's no missing them - unless you've got terrible lights (or, yes, you're going way too fast). Deer are so stupid, fast, and unpredictable that one of our writeoffs was a product of the deer broadsiding us. It launched out of a deep ditch (where we couldn't see it from the road) as we passed, slamming into the front fender and rolling along the length of the car, wiping off the mirror and pushing in every body panel along the way.
  19. Another thing i noticed before i noticed the previous 2 replies. Someone at legacygt forums suggested to turn the drive shaft by hand at the rear diff. The DS spins relatively easily by hand, and smoothly, and both rear tires rotate with it. But one tire was getting stuck halfway thru rotation. Checked to see if caliper was stuck, indeed it was, unjammed it, it now glides free. But it still remains. I can hear a grinding esque noise on the opposite side of the rotor from the caliper. But more prominent in the rear of the spindle than the hub side. I dont think the bent rim is my primary source of vibration, it doesnt seem that bad, and the tire was one the front, where ive prominently felt this experience through the back... Im guessing this is narrowed down to axle and/or bearing on the rear side vibration. And as far as the the awd not engaging, maybe the duty c? Because i nothing is locked up? Or am i missing something?
  20. I'm not sure about the 05-09 Leg/OB rear hub spline, hard to believe it's a different spline than all the others. The 02 Leg/OB bolt on rear wheel bearings are only about 1/2" wider than the 05-14 Leg/OB bolt on front wheel bearings. That's the width of the spacer we've been using on our front CV axles/bearings with the longer front control arms, so it should work out fine. At this time it would be a lot of money and time for the benefit so I don't plan on doing it yet. You're welcome. The rock crawling/bouncing you did recently was some of the most extreme I've seen a Subaru do.
  21. Well running premium does up the pep but doesn't change the shifting behavior. Double pumping the accelerator to pass works fairly nicely though. Still need to get around to checking the TPS.
  22. I was considering forking out $$$ once again for a group N (STI) transmission mount for the Legacy, as I bought one a few years ago and fitted it to the Forester with very happy results. Then I found the remains of the windshield adhesive sealant I had recently used to toughen up the Vivio’s failing engine mounts, and I then dug out the Forester’s old soft transmission mount, still in one piece... ....So I am experimenting with... One original Forester SF trans mount, Two unused hard rubber bushes from a Fiat Panda’s trailing arms, 1/2 tube of windshield adhesive/sealant. - -Thoroughly clean and degrease the mount, and force in the bushes (bench vise did the trick): -Tape up one side to prevent seepage: -Squeeze in sealant from the open side as thoroughly as possible: -Do what you will with the excess, and leave to cure for a few weeks: When it is cured I shall remove the Legacy’s existing mount and compare them both in the hand, before fitting and coming back with an update. I am expecting a firmer mount, though not as stiff as the real STI component.
  23. Or just buy the Subaru genuine Koyo bearings and kit. All the bearings I've found through Granger or Fastenal or whatever are china junk. works in a pinch, or if you're gonna do sand dunes and replace them twice a years. But for a regular road car, if you want them to be best quality, you can't beat 44 dollars for both bearings, and both seals. from Subaru. All Japanese. It's an XG part # in their system, I don't have the whole part # handy.
  24. FerGloyale

    XT coupe air struts.

    The struts have Hi and Low switches at each end of the travel. That makes signal that the Air Suspension computer uses to control pressure at each wheel. Air is vented through the solenoid attached to the side. Do you have an FSM for the car? I may be able to hook you up with one of mine, or at least scan and E-mail the relevant Air suspension pages.
  25. The 2005 Impreza Outback Sport , automatic transmission, just started making this whine at highway speeds as soon as we put new tires on it and had it aligned and inspected. It is intermittent and kind of fluctuates, and is mainly heard on acceleration so it doesn’t really sound like it would be a bad tire. I believe it’s coming from the front of the car. The other possibly is that the front CV joints are likely toast since the inside boots were split when I bought the car for who knows how long and have thrown a lot of grease already. Please check out the video at the link below and let me know what you think
  26. Would it be better off to reuse the rails from the Impreza (which includes the seat belt) and of so, would the Legacy seats bolt up to the rails the same way the Impreza seats do?
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