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  1. Likely need to swap the crank and LH cam sprocket from the old engine. The tone wheels for the crank and cam sensors are part of those sprockets, and there are a couple different patterns.
    2 points
  2. Its best to start a.new thread for your problem. Things that can cause bad running- first things to check, in no particular order - Bad fuel, Bad coolant temp sensor. Low fuel pressure, blocked cat.
    1 point
  3. Think I found a big part of my problems. That's the signal wire for the main cam. The purple wire next to it is the temp sensor which was bouncing around the last time I ran it. With that wire fixed it now picks up the main cam signal pretty consistently. Coolant temp is reading steady. Fuel injected is back to a reasonable amount too, still not sure what was causing the super rich mixture. One exhaust cam isn't reading consistently, checked that but it looked and maybe felt a little bit loose, crimped it more and felt solid but still losing that cam signal occasionally. Ran a lot better but broke up around 3000rpm. Low range works. Put the cam timing base maps and duty cycles back to their starting points. Tuned the duty cycles a bit so the cam angles followed the target fairly close. Ran better, pulls strong but seems to be running pretty lean under load. Got the brake lights and turn signals working (simple fixes) but gas gauge still isn't working. Put it on my insurance. Still needs more work but nice to have it running and driving well finally.
    1 point
  4. If you have the space, a 20 ton press from harbor freight is handy for older wheel bearings, I've done a few. There's a used KD hub tamer on Ebay, might be missing the two-jaw puller, same set also on CL for over a month, but I've not used one before.
    1 point
  5. So they sent me the wrong switch (or I just ordered the wrong size) but still plugged in. After that the voltage jumped up to 5v in the ignition coil. Spend some more time messing around and found that the fuses I bought were another problem because they were slightly skinnier and longer than the original ones so replaced that and it would start and run on her own! But I had to jump the starter still. So I replaced the starter to see if that was it and no it wasn’t so then I did the extra relay solution and now it works great. Just in time for the snow we got! Thanks for the help Brennan.
    1 point
  6. I would simply top off the oil at every other tank fill rather than risk all that can go wrong having someone swap in another block. Plenty of things can go wrong after an engine swap on a used car and then the blame game begins. I agree with thicker oil as well.
    1 point
  7. Silicone is a no-go for gasoline applications. The best material I have found is Nitrile rubber sheets (aka Buna-N, NBR, etc.) and it is approved for gasoline and many other oils and fuels. I laser cut it to make fuel pump diaphragms for mechanical fuel pumps in my older classic cars. You can get plain sheets or Nylon cloth infused sheets if you need extra strength. I've bought from ebay, McMaster-Carr, Amazon and Grainger in the past. Plain Nitrile should be fine for your fuel tank sender gasket.
    1 point
  8. Probably transfer clutches. Get them new, and fix it. You don't have to pull the transmission, and a used trans is likely to also have worn clutches. Also inspect all rear suspension and diff bushings. AWD could be engaging normally, but a bushing is clunking when it's loaded.
    1 point
  9. 1 point
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