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Showing content with the highest reputation on 06/15/18 in all areas

  1. If you just leave out the little pushrod, and screw the modulator back in, it will shift as if it has full vacuum. Which will be as soon as the governor pressure comes on. So if you like shifting manually, that should work.
    1 point
  2. I've rebuilt these carbs so many times, and I found the easiest way to get them running perfect! Throw the SOB away! Follow exactly what GD says and never look back. No instructions are needed, if you need detailed ones follow jeszeks "ideas on swapping a Weber" thread. Buy a true made in Spain Weber, not an INTERCO Weber like I got ripped off on. It runs great, but let's face it, it's not a weber. One instruction I will say follow, plug carb warmer hole with jb weld aluminium/steel stick then mill it and the intake manifold flange flat. If you don't, leaks will find you fast.
    1 point
  3. This really disturbs me. That these, and who knows how many other thousands of old parts there are, sitting in Subaru warehouses. With no way for anyone to even begin to find them, unless they have an old parts book. I got these numbers from a guy on facebook, who had such a book, as incredibly ironic as that is... When I bought my 83 ragtop 4 years ago, In February in Indiana, at night, in sub-zero temperatures, the thermostat was stuck wide open. I went to the dealership I had actually worked at in the early 90s for a tstat. The kid at the parts counter was, like, "Uh...like, our system only goes back to like 85." I just glared at him, turned around, and went to Napa. I was too steamed to even discuss why: 1. He had no clue that they were the same as the 85-94s. 2. That Subaru had not bothered to put anything older in their system. I realize they are only required to sell parts for 15 years after manufacture, but why keep these parts in stock then?!? I really see this as a failure of Subaru to support the survivors of their brand. They should be featuring some of our old relics... with the old relics (us) that keep them alive, in their sales propaganda, instead of all the 20-somethings and their dogs camping in brand-new Crosstreks... Forgive my rant.
    1 point
  4. I've done about 40-50 of these swaps. Directions are not required. Neither is a kit. Get the carb, adapter, and low profile air filter. On the EA82 you will want a 60 or 65 idle jet. Rip off everything that isn't the manifold itself. Throw it all away. Run a vac line to the distributor. Tune idle mixture and speed. GD
    1 point
  5. the problem with those Hitachi Carbs is that they are made to work with the emission crap on it, as much as im an original freak at keeping a vehicle as original as possible, unfortunately after many, many months of tinkering with my Hitachi, i never could get it to work smoothly for more than 40minutes. i would go to walmart, and have to tune it again before leaving, i would leave work and time to tune it again, i would bottom out on the idle mixture at times just to get it to somewhat run right. all the calibrations shifted horribly on mine from day to day. the hardest thing about the whole conversion will be removing all the emission stuff, but after hours of doing the conversion on mine, first crank, and it started right up, with a growling sound too like the old carb was stealing so much power from it. $300 dollars is alittle harsh but its actually worth it at the end, i was a non believer at first, but i don't regret one bit of all the work i did to it.
    1 point
  6. Carb is clapped out. Get a Weber. Understanding it isn't require. It's a carb - it works on venturi's, pressure differential, emulsion tubes, and jets (orifices) just like all the others. It's clapped out and no amount of futzing with it will magically turn it into a Weber. Don't waste your time. GD
    1 point
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