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Got similar from US or other newspapers same era?

Sad, seemingly poor (if any) quality control like many other products of nowadays.

The valve stem seals are all identical by eye, same colour, same springs, same shape inside. They did not come inlet/exhaust separate, and are aftermarket. The manual stipulates black inlet, brown exhaust. I think I'll order the genuine Subaru parts, now that I have destroyed them again!

The 95/96-ish ECU's aren't "fussy" at all. If you get into the later 90's ECU's then they want a bunch of extra fuel system sensors, etc. The OBD-II sensors are similar. I think everything is basically the same except throttle position... different ECU connectors. The 20G computer (93-96 JDM WRX, etc) is pin compatible with the 92 ECU except it has reversed cam/crank signals and shares a ground on one of the sensors. Easily correctly. It allows you to use the Enduring Solutions board from the UK which allows real-time tuning. GD

electric impact would be a great addition to your 'kit' even if you only used it for buzzing off wheels. I regret waiting 30 years to own an impact. That said, it's no good for assembling anything - use a torque wrench when appropriate. Best approach for struts, gather your new parts, take the assemblies and new parts to a shop, pay them them do the swap. If you want to do the whole process, the impact will help a LOT with the spring compressors. Doing struts is what prompted me to buy mine. Yes, doable with hand tools, especially so if you aren't fighting rust. It just takes more effort and patience. I had to kinda 'rig' a 6mm wrench to fit through a socket held by vice grips to torque the top of the strut. Also, consider new strut mounts - at least remove them and spin on your finger - the bearings in the mounts on my WRX were bad at only 65K miles or so - but 10 years old. Be careful with the little studs on the mounts, very low torque.

Nope, nothing too special. A way to compress the springs on the struts and the caliper , rotor & pads is same as always. Be sure to grease the caliper slide pins with syl-glide or other high quality brake lube. EDIT) Upper bolt holding the strut to the knuckle is for alignment , mark the head to the knuckle with paint and turn from the nut side. Lower bolt is normal

Piston #2 has been mashing that piece of insulator against the head: There's a 5mm wide x 0.5mm deep crater (top centre) in the piston, and a few nicks. Can I get away with some light sanding? Your thoughts please... The remains of the insulation can be seen on the top centre border .... and you can see the nicks in the head (bottom right): The 4 cylinder bores are very good, a little polished perhaps, very few fine vertical score marks. Cylinder 2: I was planning to pull the crank and pistons this month for a light bore honing, install new rings, main seals etc.

Here we go then. Front end off and lets crack it open....

Only difference is high pres fitting & resevoir between the years 83 & 87. Change fitting on later pump & you should be golden. Look at the pics on RockAuto for 83 & 87 gls for differences. I'd have to dig for it but I may have the late resevoir & a core pump.