Leaderboard

Yes, sounds like someone drove the pin in when the half shaft was 180 out. The other option is to pop out the half shaft with the stub axle attached. It's held in with a circle clip. Remove the strut to knucle bolts and lower ball joint then use the weight of the hub as a slide hammer and the stub axle should come out.

Wow that was great ! Thanks again , you few folks left here from the glory days of the USMB. Keep the USMB alive !

the heat is a last resort but not a deal breaker. One trick I learned from the forums, after heating a connection, squirt penetrating fluid on it (50:50 acetone/ATF, Kroil, PB Blaster w'ever - avoid fumes and fire!) and as the joint cools, the fluid may be 'pulled in'. But if you think the rubber lamination in the pulley and the pulley bolt were compromised, get a new bolt and a Perrin lightweight pulley to replace them.

Yes, but the heat will expand the bolt, more than the hole in the crank, making it tighter. While making the bolt weaker. When I've most often used the torch method successfully, it's when heating the "nut" side of things. In this situation, the nut expands more than the bolt, making a looser fit. Not identical to this situation - I have found that especially when dealing with steel bolts in an aluminum block, getting the engine up to normal operating temperature before trying to loosen the bolts helps a LOT. I've gotten many out that would have snapped if attempted at room temperature. If the engine can run, that's the quickest way, but a few times, I used a space heater and a heat gun, while watching a thermometer in contact with the area near the bolt.

Was thinking something similar. Cut pres reg can off mounting plate, weld/silver solder fpt fitting to plate & screw in 5/16" hose barb. Insert external pres reg in return line.

buy an original used one from ebay. Make sure the numbers match.

One fan is controlled by the ECU for engine cooling and the other is activated when air conditioning is selected on.

Exactly Cutting power to it “locks” the 4WD. Looking at that FSM find the wiring pinout for the trans connector or the TCU and look for the duty c wire. Cut it and it’s “locked” install the most basic “on/off” switch to properly open and close that circuit. On later models the TCU light will flash 16 times after every time is starts with the switch in “locked” position. Just happens once due to you flipping the switch. Ignore it or build a fancy circuit to mimmick the resistance the TCU needs to be happy. Since that is pointless I’ve never done it.

try to find the FSM or wiring diagram online. for US versions you can find nearly any one online for free. you might even just start there and see if your EU info is identical to US, shouldn't take long to tell if the wires are the same colors/locations. I've accessed the wiring at the transmission harness in the engine bay or at the TCU under the dash. maybe a wiring guru could explain a simple mechanical way to find it, for example (these are for illustration/starting points only): 1. if the Duty C solenoid has a distinct resistance then just check all the wires until you find one within the range of the Duty C solenoid. 2. can you hear the Duty C click when it's activated? if so: a. find the ground wire - easily test each wire while the car is "on" and find the trans ground wire. b. disconnect the trans connector - ground the ground wire, and then apply 12 volts to each wire and listen for the Duty C to activate.

Barring a breakdown in any of 4 states, I'll see y'all there Friday.

Be there Fri afternoon

I’m guest east coast guy. see you all weekend.

I'll be there on Saturday!