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The Tribeca being a 5EAT should have Subaru HP in it, which is a full-synthetic. There are a few aftermarket equivalents... 4EATs before 2006 just need Dexron III, which is the most common and cheapest form of ATF (usually labeled as Dex/Merc). There are plenty of synthetic and name brand alternatives, but you're transmission would be better off if you spend a third as much, and change it twice as often.

Good question -but if it hasn't been overheated or run with crap oil changes the rod bearings will be fine another 100k. if it has been compromised then you're stuck between trying to recover a poor engine which isn't ideal. in this case the order of magnitude experience/cost required to split the block to try and circumvent that risk in't really justified. if you suspect the block and time your time is highly valued, get another engine, it's not worth pissing away the cash and time. years ago i'd repair it and hope for the best. now i'll just dump a suspect block even if it runs perfectly fine and go with a new one. my time is too valuable to dork around with overheated or poorly maintained engines. i have a few engines that technically only need headgaskets, but they're not worth my time/gamble. one of them i know overheated before i ever owned the car so i yanked and bought a JDM.

Most definitely had a ground connection issue. Bought heavy duty battery terminal clamps with set screws to tighten the cable to the connector.. and cleaned up and tightened the various grounding wires in the engine compartment. Strange but after that fans work fine now.

Miles; Just a tip. Only buy a Subaru pcv, the parts store ones have been known to suck the oil right out.

Got the 22mm 3/4 drive socket today. Piece of cake ! Didn't even have to use the backhoe. Proper tool for the proper job. That's what I always say. Thanks for all the replies.

yes, the 95 Legacy is OBDII - I had one.

It's extremely risky TO split the block. The clearances are not a trifling matter on a split aluminum block. It will not go back together well if you haven't done quite a few of these and know the special tricks. You are 100% more likely to throw a rod bearing if you do split it than if you don't. GD

Good for the power steering system too.

well its not the torque converter after all, somewhere air is not getting out of the engine and its causing it to have to come though probable the rear main seal, air is building up inside the engine as you start the car and let it run for a few, then if you pull the oil dip stick a big sound of air comes out of the dip stick holder and the noise stops, then put back the dip stick when it builds up air again in the engine in like one minute the noise starts again till you pull up the oil dip stick again...........Anyone Know why air is building up inside the engine? When I drained the oil pan you should of seen it come out of it like a flood cause of the air inside the engine.