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Instead of a new radiator I recommend creating an air dam under the front of the L series, starting below the radiator and ending somewhere near the engine crossmember. You can add flutes that face backwards to the air dam too, this helps in creating a low air pressure system behind the radiator which naturally draws air through the radiator, increasing the cooling ability of the radiator without needing to rely on the fans as much. I did this with my EJ22'd L series with a dual core copper radiator (Nissan pulsar unit) and ran it across the Nullarbor Plain in the middle of our summer, loaded to the gills with the AC cranked. It got to 44*C outside and the car ran steady on 93*C at 110kmph. The makeshift air dam allowed us to do this as my L seems to have issues drawing air through the radiator at speed. I don't know if it's the lift kit with a modified factory bash plate rather than a custom unit (on the list of things to do), but the MAN truck grille we found on the side of the road the the trick beautifully for our return trip home. I also wonder if those little pressed metal plates that reside under the radiator on each side actually contribute to this pressure effect. They're usually left off at some point in these vehicle's lives and could be a factor on a stock vehicle's cooling ability. Cheers Bennie

Hi guys I hope this site is still semi active with other enthusiasts. I have a 92 Subaru loyale that I will be starting a build thread this might be slow due to funds but I hope y'all enjoy it

Dan, it looks just like the lower used one with brackets attached in your picture. If you still have that one you could maybe unbolt the rear cover & turn the discharge port to up position where it belongs(?) If you don't want to void the warranty then tell the rebuilder what orientation the ports must be in.

First set used .120" wall 4130, never bent or anything but went to .187" wall so we had grind stock for the bushings. Let me know how yours turn out.

Off the top of my head, it should be 4.111, same as the MT 2.5 cars that body style. The AT 2.5s had 4.444s

Corner marker lights with pigtails, headlight buckets, headlight retainers & hardware, grill, lower headlight valance pieces & valance. Relays plus 4 headlight connectors. Some wire of course. Suppose you could get the complete front harness & do it that way. Wired mine so LED low beam is outers only, LED high beam is outers & halogen inners, fog lights are halogen inner low beam + fogs with separate switch. Was lucky enough to find an OEM fog light switch at a PNP yard. Headlight switch in turn signal assembly activates relays that are powered directly from fused battery source under hood.

Yes to all of this. Sound fluid dynamic principals at play here. I have yet to do this on my RX-RA, but I did notice a difference in cooling by reinstalling the factory skid plate. The splash guards on the sides of the engine bay help as well (just look at the size of the undertray on any modern car). Another step you could take would be to fill the gaps between the radiator and the sheet metal it attaches to with foam. This will keep the airflow from going around the radiator instead of through it.

It's not the booster. Even if the spring inside the booster were to break, It wouldn't cause the pedal to go to the floor. Did you bench bleed the master before installing it? If not, that could be your issue. You need two people to bleed the system properly, or a vacuum bleeder or a one man bleeder hose with a check valve. Bleed in this order: RR, LR, RF, LF after you bleed the master. Keep going with each corner until you get clear fluid and no bubbles.

As far as compressors and sitting... The pulley is mounted on a double race ball bearing. It freewheels. When the clutch is energized, the compressor rotor is engaged to the pulley. The compressor rotor is connected to the flat plate with the 3 tabs sticking off of it that are for the safety [seized compressor] cutout. That is what you want to turn to see if the compressor is stuck. You do also want to spin the pulley to check the ball bearings, but that's a lot easier to fix than the internals. Sitting shouldn't hurt them, there is refrigeration oil in the Freon loop, and it is circulated through the system. Sitting outdoors, in high humidity, and wide temperature swings, with open lines, well that could cause problems.

I can't get over the commercial for the XT turbo back in the day. There's a quick shot of the cluster and if you look close the temp is one bar below the red.

My ea82t runs hot, but I''m pretty sure it left the factory that way.

Don't pour anything except coolant, water or "water wetter" type additives. "Stop Leak" type products should be called Stop Flow instead...

You may end up creating more problems with that stuff. Why not first pinpoint the source of the problem? Doesn't take much to bypass the heater core. Radiator that old has to be on its last leg.