Leaderboard

I would pay the core, grab any needed parts from your old one, put in the new one and recycle your own core at a local scrap yard and save the gas and windshield time. You can also ask them to waive the core. They do sometimes.

I've been doing AC for 20+ years and I've never heard of condensers being rated. An aluminum condenser is an aluminum condenser. It doesn't care what refrigerant is running through it. What does matter is the seals, o-rings and oil. They must be rated for the type of refrigerant you use. Change those out accordingly, get the charge port adapters and then recharge with R134a and increase the charge 25% to compensate for the loss of cooling efficiency from R12 to R134. I've done close to 100 conversions over the years and never had an issue.

Original poster take note that says "all Phase 2" but the 1998 Forester you're asking about is a phase 1 so that doesn't answer your question directly, although I think in the end you'll want a Phase II block anyway. Correct - engine mounts are a non-issue for Subaru's, they're basically all located identically, you can drop your engine in a 1987 Loyale or 2008 Tribeca if you wanted to and it'll bolt up. You used an EJ25 HG on an EJ22 block? The fire ring would be larger in diameter (EJ25 bore) than the cylinder (EJ22 bore). Usually the HG matches the bore so the fire ring matches the cylinder diameter. HP estimates are discussed on the board. 190-ish is a commonly thrown around number - but it ends up depending on which block/pistons/heads you use. GD mentions his preferred combination of heads/pistons elsewhere. I think he prefers Phase II pistons/blocks. 1998 forester is a Phase I block. I'm pretty sure Phase II is the prefered block to use but someone else will mention or you can search it. As to manifold and block - the intake manifold doesn't bolt to the block, it bolts to the heads. You're going to bolt your heads to an EJ block - and then your intake manifold bolts to your heads - just like right now. Basically *NOTHING* changes - you're just sliding out the block and pistons and sliding another one underneath all the heads/intake manifold. So there's really zero questions about how to do it - or if the electronics matter - because it's all easy and nothing different happens nor does anything change. Pick a block - bolt your EJ22 heads to it - swap over all your intake manifold, wiring, sensors, etc. Interchanging of intakes/heads/blocks - that is depending on Phase I or Phase II. Phase I intake manifolds only bolt to Phase I heads. Phase II intake manifolds only bolt to Phase II heads. But EJ blocks aren't phase dependent so you can bolt any Phase I or II heads (and therefore intake manifolds because those attach to the heads) to any EJ block, phase of the block does not matter.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/R-12-Refrigerant-3-National-R-12-Can-Usa-made-genuine-12oz-Can/222647142150?epid=0&hash=item33d6cdc706:g:l9oAAOSwj9dZvXqR If its all leaked out, find the leak with dye & a black light, fix it. Then remove the compressor, drain the mineral oil & refill it with fresh oil before you recharge it with R-12. Four Seasons website has fill capacities for oil & R12. Oils can hold contaminants in suspension for a long time.