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Showing content with the highest reputation on 10/04/18 in all areas

  1. Drum brakes should always be adjusted first before bleeding, as I surmise you just found out. Adjust & try again Dee. Tighten until they're locked up then back off until they drag lightly. By the time you get done here you'll qualify for your NIASE patch on your service jacket....
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  2. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000MXW2EM/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 While you may not be seeing air when you get back to each wheel, air could be rising up the bleeder hose & remain trapped in caliper/whl cyl on last up stroke of brake pedal.
    1 point
  3. You can bleed with that method. I'm not sure what dictates a successful/unsuccessful bleed and making sure no air gets past the bleeder/caliper connection but i've done it a lot without issue somehow.
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  4. Only problem with that method, is that there is no seal when the bleeder is loose. So air can be drawn back into the cylinder through the threads of the bleeder on the release of the pedal.
    1 point
  5. You did use a check valve type brake bleeder at the wheels, right? Try bleeding the MC this way then..with all MC lines tight but no too tight, crack one front line loose at the MC then allow it to gravity bleed until fluid is dripping. Then tighten that line. Go to one rear line, crack it loose at the MC & allow it to gravity bleed until it is dripping. Tighten all MC lines. Now go to each wheel in criss-cross pattern & bleed them. Do all your bleeding with the engine off - no booster so you can get a solid feeling pedal first. You must have a solid pedal with no vacuum boost first or its pointless. Other things to check: Pull down your lower kick panels & check out the clevis pin in brake pedal lever & the brake rod. Look for loose/worn parts. While you've got the dash panel down check out firewall to see if fluid had leaked down inside the cabin.
    1 point
  6. All Subaru cranks are Forged. The design having too many main/rod bearings too close to each other precludes the use of a casting. It wouldn't hold up. They are very thin in cross-section between the bearings. We routinely run the stock nitrided EJ257 crank up to 600+ HP with no problems.
    1 point
  7. I keep the tube in an arch-shaped loop so air can't go back down into the bleeder valve. Any air should rise up and away from the bleeder valve. As the fluid goes back down, from the top of the arch into the bottle, it should create a slight vacuum at the bleeder valve. At least that's my theory..... On the threads of the bleeder valve, I think what happens is the first stroke of the pedal forces fluid around the threads and it becomes a wet seal. Releasing the brake pedal slowly prevents the sucking of air back through the threads. At least that's my theory..... I also ran a little check test. I have the rear end of the car up in the air with the wheels off. So I pressed the brake pedal down and held it in place with a bar. Both rear wheels will spin freely. The shoes barely touch the drum. I can lock the brakes if I turn the manual adjuster far enough, so I know they can work. I'm not sure if that confirms air in the system or if the brake cylinders are both bad.
    0 points
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