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Showing content with the highest reputation on 01/02/19 in all areas

  1. Hi everyone! i'm a locksmith in NY and an older Subaru enthusiast, i've had 2 Loyales, a 91 and 92, in the past and a 98 Impreza (unfortunately none now, but i'll be back!). anyway, enough about me...i'm seeing if anyone needs keys made for their locks? or needs their locks rekeyed to match ignition or whatever...i know a lot of you probably have different keys for door/ignition/trunk/glovebox etc. after replacing broken parts. if you're sick of that, let me know. if you mail me a lock, i can rekey it to a specific key. you can send either door or ignition locks and a key that you want to work in that lock, and i will set it up for you and send it back. probably for about $35 including shipping. if it requires more, i will let you know ahead of time and give you the option to just send it back without working on it for free. i can also do the same for most other locks, not just Subaru. Glovebox locks will require another lock if you want them to match. the glovebox only has 4 tumblers in it. the other locks have 8 or 10, depending on year and model, so i can't make a working key for your other locks based on the glovebox. you can also send a lock that you don't have keys for, and i will make you a key and send it back. that will probably run about $25-35. turnaround is usually within 1 day after i receive it. just get in touch and we'll figure it out. i'll let you know what you need to send. Paypal, Money orders, Zelle, even checks are ok (but you will have to wait until the check clears) ADMINS: if this is in the wrong section, please feel free to move it or whatever needs doing
    2 points
  2. Well I finally did it. I created the Mr Loyale youtube chanel to document my Loyale repairs.
    2 points
  3. JONV 23 Where did you acquire this BRAT? It look very much like my old one from TX. Is that a 1980? Message me....subaru3@aol.com
    1 point
  4. You should be able to grip the strut shaft with a vice grip and loosen the nut. The old strut is trash anyhow.
    1 point
  5. I don't see alignment listed anywhere in this thread. Mis-alignment can amplify any minor play to completely out of spec.
    1 point
  6. Frozen slide pins on the caliper. Did any of the old pads come out worn on an angle? That’s a tell tale sign of a frozen slide pin. Cheers Bennie
    1 point
  7. you could also use a through socket wrench and the allen. But as sid, I would do it off the car, and with the springs compressed.
    1 point
  8. Do you feel it in the driver's seat bottom when you first brake? If so it's the rear brake rotors. I've had a couple Subaru's do this. Hard to track down unless you know about it. s do this.
    1 point
  9. G'Day Bennie! Glad to meet a fellow Aussie! Yeah, I moved from Sydney to California in '02. Before then I had an imported '97 Legacy RS twinnie when I lived in Melbourne in '99-'01. I rediscovered my love for Subies when I bought another in 2017. It needs some work, but looking forward to getting her set up just right. Got a good deal on Tomei UEL headers so she's going on this week. I've a couple of questions I'll throw into the forum if I can't find an answer from my searches first. Happy 2019 mate, and to everyone else!
    1 point
  10. I get what you mean about there not quite being room to get an offset wrench into there. In the event you don't have an impact driver, another option is a "pass through" socket/ratchet that lets you run the allen key down through it, but they're kinda rare. Still, though, I'm with everyone else here in that I can't see a valid reason for removing that nut while the strut is in the car, and that makes it unnecessarily dangerous.
    1 point
  11. Nice photo.... ....of it PARKED!????? Show it doing its thing!
    1 point
  12. So..I finally got around to digging into the dash. First time for everything. The key is to pull out the cup holder, which exposes some screws and then the rest pops off pretty easy to expose the other mounting screws. Then I got the cig ligher out and did a test light test. power came to the cig lighter and stopped on one side of the "fuse thing" on the back. The other side had no power. So...I removed the insulation disk between the contacts on the back, thereby removing the protection of the failed "fuse thing". Cig lighter now works like a champ, although I "only" have the protection of the fuse in the fuse panel. (at least this is my theory now...anyone with other ideas please set me straight) Anywho...I told everyone to only charge cell phones and NOT to use any crazy adapters or other high draw things. Thanks for the help on here guys. NH
    1 point
  13. Sparkyboy... Beautiful wagon! My '86 wagon is named Subie Girl. Subie Girl has a Weber, otherwise all stock. I love the white spoke wheels too. I bought my wagon in 1986 in Lakewood CO but we've lived in WA state for decades. Subie Girl can go almost anywhere without any alterations.
    1 point
  14. Well that escalated quickly. Now I'm gonna spend the next two hours lost in the world of Wikipedia, starting with what the hell a Faraday cage is!
    1 point
  15. Just to close the discussion up, I was given some misinformation unfortunately. Guy at the dealership said the "traction control" was shut off, so I made the assumption he knew what he was talking about with regards to it. Turns out, what I was thinking of with traction control or at least what I was told, was not offered much until 2008. No worries, after reaching out, turns out I had a bad speed sensor in my left rear wheel. Took care of it this morning. Thanks for the help, though!
    1 point
  16. It has to be able to perform there bud.lol
    1 point
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