Okay, go to p.44 of the PDF, titled "13. ENGINE ELECTRICAL SYSTEM LHD model" (it says p.51 at the bottom of the page). There's your fuel pump on the left side of the drawing. Print this page - people who try to debug stuff like this on their phones drive me nuts.
As you can see, the connector at the tank is R58. Look at the bottom of the page and they describe it. Pins 1 and 4 are the ones you're interested in, and the drawing says that the positive side (which goes to the relay) is LY (Blue + Yellow) and negative (ground) is B for Black, respectively. Don't ask me why they chose L for Blue; I think it's stupid too. Confirm that those are the wires that correspond to the correct pins. Unplug the connector. Connect pin 1 to the positive (+) side of your battery and pin 4 to the negative (-), and you should hear your pump run. There may be a little spark when you connect it up; as long as the pump is running, don't worry about that. But if you get a spark and the pump doesn't run, the motor may be seized/shorted and you'll start burning wiring if you leave it connected, so unhook it without delay.
Be careful. If you short the wires together - even with a battery you don't think is very good - you're going to get some or all of: sparks, heat, melted insulation, burnt fingers, and damaged connector pins that will add to your repair job. I do electronic stuff, so I've got lots of little grabby clippy things around; if I didn't, I'd go to the junkyard and snip off one of those connectors with as much wire as I could manage to give me a "pigtail" connector to do these tests with. How you do it is up to you based on what you have around, how much of a hurry you're in, how close the nearest wrecker is, etc.
Follow all that?