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Also, if you have to take out a bank loan and pick up a second job to afford the car, I would really suggest thinking about what is a priority in your life right now. Having a neat project car that will need a lot of work soon, or financial independence with zero outstanding debt? Not trying to come across as a jerk, just trying to impart some knowledge and experience to you.

Plates mounted to the body via old modified lift blocks IMG_3520 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr Here's the other side, with the trailing bracket mounted. This allows positioning of the bracket before welding to the plate above. IMG_3522 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr Here' what I had to do to pull the brackets into place. Now that I know that I was using a bad number to measure from (4+ inches too narrow) I know why it was so hard to get them pulled in! lol Also, in this shot you can see the crossbar of my built subframe. With the diff now pushed about 4 inches further up into the body, that tube interferes with the driveline. Had to change that, pics in the next shot. IMG_3525 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr Here's the subframe tube with a new cutout and bracing IMG_3539 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr And here's the sliders connecting the subframe with the Trailing brackets. Too bad these are gonna have to change again when I reposition the brackets 2" further out on each side. IMG_3544 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr IMG_3543 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr And here's some pics of the finished crossbracing for the main subframe. The added braces are kinda hard to see in the dark photos. IMG_3541 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr IMG_3542 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr Here's the final height it will sit at viewed from underneath in the pit. IMG_3536 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr Here's a shot of what the trailing brackets look like from the side of the rig. These will need to change a bit, but basically haow it will be. Gotta move these brackets outward about 2 inches each. IMG_3546 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr

There's three connectors under the dash - you unplug the pair that's plugged in, and connect the one that was free to it's mate from the pair. This resets the light for another 60k - then you swap them back again. You repeat every 60k. It's a reminder to clean the EGR. It's in the service manual. GD

As far as casting differences - the 25D block (96 to 98, 4 bolt bell-housing) has some differences in the water jackets around the cylinder liners making them more prone to head gasket abrasion. You can easily tell these blocks because they say EJ25 and they only have a 4 bolt bell-housing. From 99 up to 2002, you find the block (251/253) will have 8 bolts and a 3/4" block breather nipple in the right rear corner (sitting in the car orientation). From 2003 on the block is essentially the same but the PCV valve is located in the block instead of the manifold so the nipple is threaded. Beyond that I don't believe there are significant changes to the block itself on up till 2012 after which the EJ25 was discontinued except for the STI. Then you have the 255/257 turbo block which differs in that it has cylinder wall support bridges at the 12 and 6 positions to reinforce the cylinders. Although this is (IMO) of dubious utility because the real problem is that too much cylinder pressure will crack the liner around the area of least support which is where the cylinder wall support has a relief for the head bolts (at about 10 and 2) (ask me how I know....). I doubt there is significant advantage to the "semi closed deck" and when we really want to put in more than ~26 psi of boost we install Darton sleeves and the closed deck bridges are superfluous at that point because the thicker liner handles the rigidity and pressure requirements of 27+ psi. Even the "closed deck" modifications that some people buy in on are really just a half-baked solution. The real solution is to bore out the liners and install heavy walled sleeves. Then you don't even need to close the deck - which has ramifications in that the ability to flow coolant is reduced. It is cheaper but again like the factory semi-closed arrangement it leaves the thin factory liners, and generally requires boring to the next oversize due to shifting of the bore to deck alignment in the process of installing the deck plating which leaves the liners even thinner..... don't get me started on this nonsense! GD

Honestly the 5 speed is junk, the hail damage really sucks to repair, and an "STI engine swap" is meaningless. 90k on it just means it's almost ready or already has failed ring lands. It will need a proper forged piston engine build, a 6 speed swap, and a whole bunch of body repair. IMO that's worth about half what they are asking or less. GD

Not worth it. You can find an nice STI from a private party for around 10k. Maybe less. Turbo upgraded WRX's are everywhere. I build them weekly almost. The trans is weak and with hail damage.... pass. Find an STI because what you really want is the 6 speed. They didn't swap any wiring. There's no reason to. It's virtually the same. GD

The TR already had essentially same 2.5 as the STI. Just with a considerably smaller turbo. So what exactly has been done to this car that makes it an "STI swap"? Generally for 2.5 WRX's that means a 6 speed swap in order to properly qualify as an STI swap. Otherwise it's just a WRX with a turbo upgrade. GD

Wasn't sure if you wanted everything in one pic so I took a few from various angles. Let me know if you want something else! Model: '86 XT Turbo

DUDE!! I saw that car! Cheers on that bro I'm glad she went to a good home and the name will come naturally, my mom named my blue GL! My xt is named after the pepper, cause i was in a food naming phase, a 1978 chevy g30 rv named noodle, an e34 wagon named pickle, and my beloved xt ghost And tell your friend jack move on the ej22!