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Get the dealer ones while you still can. Even at $5 that is a bargain for quality parts. GD

Picked up these two very unusual models at a local antique show. They are made of a soft wood and appear to have been made around the same time that these vehicles were new. They seem to be professionally made rather than by a Subaru fan with mad woodworking/modeling skills. They are about 20" long 7" tall and 6" wide. Could they be a corporate thing, used for promotional or advertising? Or a dealer thing? They are really cool but have been banged up over the years. Any information would be greatly appreciated.

KA in that Subaru is not a good idea. Sit to far forward of the front axle. If you start cutting into the body, it will ruin the structural integrity of that unibody car. I’m a Nissan guy myself and the KA is a good engine, just not in this application.

And way too tall and heavy to fit in the loyale. MAYBE if you used an entire Nissan front suspension. Maybe. Will NOT fit in the loyale with it's stock crossmember/suspension. Doesn't matter because obvious by the Redneckeery goin on in this thread, you will never swap in anything. Great job F-in up a car that's lasted in really nice condition for years. EGR lowers cyl temperatures. If you understood it, you'd have known it wasn't necessary to weld the intake side of that pipe if you've blocked off the port with the beer can. PCV removes corrosive gasses from the engine oil Hillholders are awesome. Only annoying to those who can't figure out how to use them. Coolant Temp sensor is possibly one of the MOST important sensor to making the car run right. You left the D-check connectors, but cut out the white, U-check connector that ACTUALLY IS THE PAIR THAT OUTPUTS STORED CODES!!! And now you won't be able to use the "clear memory" either. That requires BOTH sets of connectors. The 4wd transfer cannot handle 90hp in RWD for long, let alone 200hp. Guaranty you break it within 3 months. Especially if yer trying to "drift" That car will not start in the winter. It will probably be ruined by then anyhow. Oh wait, never mind, it's already ruined. But it's yer car so "tweek" on it all you want.

13089AA010

Yes, FSM are the best. I consider them part of buying a car.

The description with the one cam pulley up one down, is the checking position, to verify you got the belt on correctly, not how to install or tension them. The 3 ||| marks is where you set the crank to install a belt, with the cam you are doing with it's mark up. Then turn the crank one full revolution, and repeat for the second timing belt. It is not normally necessary to touch the distributor when replacing the timing belts. Although, removing it for head gaskets makes sense. I usually mark where the rotor is pointing before I remove it, or check my 2nd EA82 car when re inserting it.

Sockets do go bad with time. I am guessing your cruise control may be angry too. A wheel speed sensor s not happy. Either a broken tone ring or bad sensor, A broken tone ring wont throw a code. Also those codes are not part of the OBDII system so it wont throw any code with a regular reader. Its a common fault mode.

This is what the trailing arm mount looked like. This part had completely rusted off. Cleaned off rust, paint, and undercoating. There was also a small crack just behind the trailing arm mount. 1/8" mild steel plates to cover the hole and spread the load. I welded these sleeves to the top plate so the bolts had something solid to tighten against. Welded the plates in place. Welded the bottom one to the inside of the rocker panel which probably helps tie the body together. At the top of the picture you can see where part of the weld for the top plate burned through the undercoating. The other side looks fine for now but I'll probably do this to the other side over the winter.

These spoilers to my understanding came stock on some model years, when I bought my car it had the mounting for one but it was removed. Luckily I was at Pick n Pull here locally one day and found a pretty destroyed GL that had this one on it! So I jumped on it. It also had the cyclops eye but every part was taken already I could only tell because the mounting bracket for the light was still there...

My vote would be leave the S/R in the XT. If you really need lower gears get a 3.9 pushbutton from a loyale and a 3.9 rear diff. But then you'd lose the close ratio gears of the 3.7 XT box. So not much to be gained really. There is no good place for the D/R shifter in the XT. no place at all really. You'd have to mutilate the center console, and the D/R shifter won't bolt to the XT shifter plate so you'd swap that too. And you'd lose the awesome pushbutton shifter 4wd. lol And if it's gonna be lowered, why the heck would you need the D/R? As for strength, they are essentially the same trans. Although the S/R is a tad lighter, and has a one piece input shaft. Arguably less to fail.

D/R 5speed - winner !!!