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Hello all, new to the forum, do it yourselfer whenever possible and these vehicles are just great, but do have their quirks. I'm a location Scout for film productions, this car has been to many.

I am new here and I am an Outback owner considering buying a new Subaru. I have a weird question that I can't find an answer to. Searching has not revealed an answer. It could be that my searching skills are not up to snuff. It deals with a strange circumstance. I am a disabled driver. I have very limited use of my left hand. I am using a spinner knob to drive. It is on the steering wheel and aids me in turning. I think they called them suicide knobs back in the day. I know adaptive cruise control requires you to keep your hands on the wheel. My question is does it use a torque sensor (requiring you to put some turning pressure on the wheel) or use cameras to determine you are holding the wheel? I intend on holding the wheel but since I only grip the knob my hand is never directly on the wheel. Will this work for me? I can sort of grip the wheel with my left (to keep the car in the lane and use it for small curves) but it is weaker than my right. I am sure the most absolute answer will be just test drive one and see. I was planning on doing that but I am curious in the meantime. If you use adaptive cruise control and know how the requirement that hand(s) on the wheel work please let me know. Any response would be greatly appreciated.

Self tappers used in the slot and bolt trick? I’ve not heard of that. What I did is probably what’s documented in the threads above: remove the tube piece with the ~45* angle bar on it that goes to the lever pivot. Grind/cut a good slot in the tube, perpendicular to the bolt holes so that the slot goes beyond where the holes are. I cut my slot to be about 3mm wide. Replace on the vehicle then drill the hole out to a larger size, this includes drilling the gear selector rod. Have a bolt that matches the hole size. Place the bolt in the hole then do up the nut as tight as all buggery! A lock nut will work well for this job. You’ll feel like you’ve got a sports shifter once this is done! Cheers Bennie

you're good, I know you can think and dialogue through things and have gobs of experience interesting. makes sense - prep is critical and variables are many.

I've had water leaks from the tail light seals and from the black plastic seals along the top of the rear trim on the outside. Siliconed the crap out of all of it, and so far so good. I did have one more leak. It's was a very small rust hole under the back bumper on the body that developed when I washed my car with a garden hose and punched right through the thin layer of rust. I've also noticed that when you open the hatch on a rainy day, water likes to run off the corners of the rear glass, and drips right onto the plastic with the vent that protrudes in the trunk. That's another way those crevices like to fill with water. And from what I've seen on other cars, that's a notoriously bad spot for water to seep through the pinch welds and separate them.

I think Subaru has a program aimed at disabled drivers so, c'freak's approach of contacting them seems like an excellent idea to me.

Update time yet again! I just wanted to also say thank you guys that follow this and like my build it's awesome to see that although I'm mostly posting here for myself some people actually like seeing it as much as I do! Okay so onto the updates, the steering shaft is in and extended I also replaced the crankcase breather hose because I went to move it out of my way and it just broke into like 10 pieces.. also had to get a longer vaccum hose from the intake to the brake booster due to the lift and shorten the lower radiator hose due to the lift as well! I started her up last night in hopes of moving and driving her but I cant get it into reverse due to it hitting the body around the shifter so I'm just going to hammer it out a little and put the carpet back over it and you won't even be able to tell. I figure while I'm there I'll probably due that 4 speed slop fix that I saw that involves self tappers... PICTURES TO FOLLOW! ONCE AGAIN THANKS FOR FOLLOWING THE BUILD.

For the oil pump shaft nut. You have to hold the shaft of the oil pump to remove the nut on the shaft. A 32mm socket fits perfectly with zero play over the 4 lobes on the end of the engine side oil pump shaft.

Hi Guys, the car is finally all together and been inspected by CAMS official. Just waiting on my log book now. Need to replace the fuel pump and get it on the dyno for some tuning.

This is the Newest member of my Family: Mr. Honey a Golden Cocker Spaniel who also Loves my "BumbleBeast"

Okay, here goes ... Wow, that was easy! (insert Staples easy button)