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Showing content with the highest reputation on 04/11/19 in all areas

  1. Ohhh, did someone mention lights? The ones high on the back wall are still florescent, the rest are LED Cant have enough light when your eyes are getting old
    2 points
  2. On my my way home from Mexico I found this guy on the side of the road... So i drove it back it back to Canada! let the fun begin. the good: almost everthing is there, jump sets and everything. No real body damage and no bad body rust from what I can tell. runs! Shifts pretty good(4spd) the bad: Torn cv’s lots of caked oil, Mexican wiring oil sender dosnt work driver side strut top is completely torn(found this once I got it home) leakying front main seal bad rad fan Truck bed leaks into cabin(when it rains) Plan: since I’ve been building my crazy off road poptop gl wagon, I thought it’d make this more of a daily driver. bushings upgrades 2 inch lift 215/75/15 Baja bfg on yota drilled 6 lug. camber/caster plates longer ish dual rate suspension Electric swap?!?!
    1 point
  3. Vancouver island. Know for it’s clean environment and beauti. and your just ganna haphazardly vent your oil everywhere. Just at least put some filters on those vent tubes. Better yet do a catch can. if not I’ll drive my wagon over yours... tho I am curious to see you try and pull of a ka swap... tho there’s plenty of ej’s floating around the island
    1 point
  4. Thanks, I need to spend some time organizing And prob a few dump runs lol
    1 point
  5. That is quite the claim. i used to drive for a living (semi) so probably have many more miles under my belt than the average person. granted, semis and cars are a little different, but not by that much - everything is basically just scaled up. Never took the semi out of gear and just coasted/used just the brakes to stop - always had it in the appropriate gear for the speed I was at - it is more about maintaining control, and being able to accelerate if need be, to get out of a potential bad situation.
    1 point
  6. (Getting pretty far OT now...) Ours was 7% when it was first introduced, but it was backed down to 5% as part of an election promise some years back.
    1 point
  7. Blue Forester has a 1.6 dual range and it was a huge benefit. There are some hills I have in mind when I make a low range for my 99 Outback.
    1 point
  8. Make sure you don't cross thread the bolts that go into the body. It's supper easy to do and not easy to fix! Run them in and out by hand a few times with some PB Blaster or something to lube the internal nut welded to the body and then put the arm on! If it starts to cross thread you will feel it. STOP and fix it.
    1 point
  9. the 2003 , if like my OBW, is a separate item and some folks have used an affordable Febest part, others have used poly bushing , some get OEM. inspect everything - the car is is 16 years old. any suspension/steering part could clunk, sometimes even brakes can. https://www.amazon.com/REAR-BUSHING-LEFT-FRONT-CONTROL/dp/B00HAQDV2Q/ref=au_as_r?_encoding=UTF8&Make=Subaru|13&Model=Outback|66&Year=2003|2003&ie=UTF8&n=15684181&s=automotive&vehicleId=3&vehicleType=automotive
    1 point
  10. Absolutely. I bought a gallon each of the clean/prep products about 10 years ago, and I still have about 1/3 of each left. And I follow the process to the letter (IIRC, wash, rinse, etch, paint). The cleaning chemical should be diluted, and works best when hot. etc. I've never had a bad experience. I was just pulling one of the KYBs off my Celica that had blown after 8 years to send in for warranty through RockAuto, brake backing plates, lateral links, backing plates and calipers still look great (painted at the same time, seen probably 4 winters since then).
    1 point
  11. I use por15. Used it on the bead area on steel rims. Only have to add air a couple times a year now. Use it on steel parts that can be entirely encapsulated by it. It is incredibly tough. I used some on my loader backhoe. As a base to tie to the rust. Then their tie coat primer to the final top coat color. Follow ALL of the instructions - get the printable ones from the website. I have bumped / nudged big logs (like half a tree ) with a painted area on the side of the loader bucket, and the color layer and prime rubbed off, but the underlying por15 is undamaged. The force involved would have caved in a body panel on a car. I have used it on rust spots on my loyales. So far so good. But also key in this, is using Waxoyl on the inside of the areas. Have to stop the moisture from getting in from both sides.
    1 point
  12. little compromise. put a catch can in in for collecting the oil goo. you can make one out of a pickle jar or a nicer once since you can weld. benefits everyone, your motor will be happier without the gases in the case, nothing is dumped on the ground, no smoke on turns. just cause you can doesnt mean you should. theres no cost in performance or maintenance to collect your toxins in the catch can, so why not make things a little cleaner on the water system.
    1 point
  13. And way too tall and heavy to fit in the loyale. MAYBE if you used an entire Nissan front suspension. Maybe. Will NOT fit in the loyale with it's stock crossmember/suspension. Doesn't matter because obvious by the Redneckeery goin on in this thread, you will never swap in anything. Great job F-in up a car that's lasted in really nice condition for years. EGR lowers cyl temperatures. If you understood it, you'd have known it wasn't necessary to weld the intake side of that pipe if you've blocked off the port with the beer can. PCV removes corrosive gasses from the engine oil Hillholders are awesome. Only annoying to those who can't figure out how to use them. Coolant Temp sensor is possibly one of the MOST important sensor to making the car run right. You left the D-check connectors, but cut out the white, U-check connector that ACTUALLY IS THE PAIR THAT OUTPUTS STORED CODES!!! And now you won't be able to use the "clear memory" either. That requires BOTH sets of connectors. The 4wd transfer cannot handle 90hp in RWD for long, let alone 200hp. Guaranty you break it within 3 months. Especially if yer trying to "drift" That car will not start in the winter. It will probably be ruined by then anyhow. Oh wait, never mind, it's already ruined. But it's yer car so "tweek" on it all you want.
    1 point
  14. Also just to add to this, the preload can be altered by changing the disc/plate number/order/thickness. [(!|!|+|!|!)] <-stock arrangement (right side= friction disc-friction plate-friction disc-friction plate-spring disc-spring plate) [(!!||+||!!)} <- half preload [([(!|+|!)])] <- double preload Using twice as many discs that are half as thick could also change the dynamics.
    1 point
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