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I have just washed my hands after the surprisingly quick and easy steering rack bushing renewal. The hammering ‘click-clack’ has gone, now with blue ‘Superpro’ PU bushings installed. The steering rack is much more snug now, with negligible lateral movement. I was fearing this job as I had heard stories of hours spent cussing under the car.... not so; just loosen the steering shaft pinch bolt first and undo the rack bolts - down she comes. You do not even have to disconnect the steering shaft, just let it slip that cm or so down its splines. I had to deflect the defiant PS hoses to let the brackets out, but the bushing just slipped into place on both sides, no grease, just a little cajoling with a wooden dowel to push the pinion side bushing over the top of the rack. 25 minutes wheels-up to wheels-down. **Rusty cars may need longer.** easy peasy. Test drive to come. After the test drive: As hoped, the steering has crisped-up, with no negative effects such as increased NVH etc.

Good day everyone. Picked up a 1990 Loyale wagon over the weekend. She's in amazingly good shape (no rust, tons of service records) & I'm so looking forward to building a long-term relationship with her. My first Subaru, coming from the world of Volkswagens and looking to get into something new. Found this site after searching for answers to some common problems and fixes in older Subarus. So many of you have helped me already, even before I signed up! Cheers!

Depends on who is doing it, but usually not unless it has ticking lifter symptoms. GD

not so much the pistons that you have to worry about as the valves. 97 and newer are interference motors - meaning when the timing belt gives out there is a very good chance the valves will be damaged. I would suggest finding a different shop - one that specializes in Subarus - and get a 2nd opinion before you spend anything.

When motor begins to over heat, open hood, keep the engine running. Check the radiator over flow container for bubbles coming up from the liquid. If you see bubbles, that is a strong indicator of a bad head gasket. I hope you see no bubbles.

To new for me, but you should be able to look at your new one.

And a lack of need for more speed/power! Cheers Bennie

Not fixed at all! The problem is intermittent, and it's back. As before, the live data shows the TPS value falls to zero (the gas peddle is depressed and the throttle is definitely open) and then it jumps back up to a correct value, causing a surge. I'm back to suspecting a bad wire or bad ground. For now, the engine runs just fine with the TPS disconnected, which means the computer is getting a 100% reading. We can live with that for a while.