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Don't be afraid of grabbing an XT6! Someone grow a pair and bring this car back to life! Pics and price? You can post your ad in the for sale section, but the mediators seem flexible and will let you know if it's not allowed here. There are still some vital engine NOS parts to be found, you just need internet searching skills. As far as the 2.7 H6, I found every NOS seal to replace after doing a timing kit. Dayco timing belts work well, the only timing kit part that is nowhere to be found is the idler pulley. I found an NOS water, oil pump and lifters also. There are very good aftermarket head gaskets available. Ditch the broken pneumatic front struts for later year Legacy struts. Rear struts, ball joints, bushings, brakes are available aftermarket. Engine sensors are also available, yet expensive... IACV, MAF and TPS, remanufactured. Even the hybrid electric steering pump can be rebuilt with new brushes, the required specific power steering fluid is also available. As long as the frame is not rotted to death and the body panels don't need gallons of Bondo, this could be a decent Winter project for a Subaru enthusiast. But as GeneralDisorder said, don't expect to get back even close to what you have into it, the general rule of most classics.

New update. I pulled the oil pump this afternoon, and the oil discharge port was half blocked by a large gob of what looks like ultra grey, and the oil pump back cover had one screw backed out.

I was a tooth off on the Timing belt. I cant beleive I did that. Oh well. Thanks for the help everyone!

Just check the oil regularly and ignore the light. Or sell the car to someone at a lowball price and buy something newer and get back into car payments. Good thing you don't have an older version with a timing belt that requires replacement at 105k miles to the tune of a few hundred dollars (all owner pay). I have a 2008 Impreza that the PO sold for $800 and bought a new car because it needed about $2400 in dealer work (oil seeping head gaskets). Less than $200 for plugs/wires/coil and a used AF sensor and it was back on the road. I ignored the HGs (check the oil frequently). The PO now has $500+/month car payments for 5 years because $2400 was too expensive for them

Who knows? Could be the o-rings between the block halves, could be a blockage somewhere like inside the rocker assembly or the head. But are you really going to pull down a 1.8 to fix this? Replace the oil pump discharge o-ring. If that doesn't fix it throw the engine in the scrap and get a 2.2 for it. GD

You need to contact Subarino Auto Electrics - based in Perth, he’ll look after you in the adaptor plate and flywheel mods department (DIY flywheel mod but has a neat template to follow). As for the clutch pressure plate, I’ve heard of people beefing up the stock unit at a reputable clutch shop. Any decent shop should be able to complete that work. Personally I’m running the stock EJ flywheel and clutch setup. To do this you need to “shove” the EA gearbox internals into the EJ phase 1 gearbox front cases. What you’re worried about isn’t anything huge. I’m sure many ppl run with the factory EA82 pressure plate without an issue. It is best to have the clutch as the weak point and not the gearbox, just learn how to drive it so you avoid slippage. Cheers Bennie

OK......today was the day. I sold my Subaru, and I got my asking price too. But the best part for me was knowing it was going to a local buyer and that he is a Subaru nut like the rest of us. He plans on taking out the 1.8 carb engine.....rebuilding it.......and putting in back into his other (less than steller condition one) GL. My old car is going to get the deluxe treatment with the upgraded Fuel Injection type......since its in better shape overall. I'm just glad it went to a new home to be saved once again and will continue to live on.........was a great car I will always remember as "The RedRoo". I'll still be active on this board, got moms 85 to still keep going, lol. The money from the sale will buy some much wanted accessories for my Honda Element, so its a "win win" for all involved.

Get it warmed up and check the resistance through the solenoid at the bulkhead harness connection. Usually around 35 ohms. If that checks out you will have to check the wiring back to the TCU. If it doesn't you will have to pull the solenoid out and check it as well as checking the transmission sub-harness for high resistance or shorts. The "Subaru" shop you took it to obviously is isn't much of a specialist if they can't fix a pre-05 Duty-C failure. GD

Learn to use the dipstick. Regularly - such as every time you fill it with gas. Ignore the light - it's there for morons that can't remember to use the dipstick. I don't see that it has been all that unreliable for you. Subaru gave you a new short block and you have done some wheel bearings and hatch struts. That's NOT significant cost of ownership for 140k. $550 to pull off the upper oil pan is not that much at the typical $130 / hour dealer rates. A few hours of labor, cleaning, and resealing. Being an intermittent issue though there is no guarantee it's a problem with the sensor. It might be, and if it is it's probably related to the short block replacement. Only testing will tell. I can tell you that your expectations of repair costs, cost of ownership, and modern vehicle overall reliability are too high. It sounds like its time to saddle up with a new car payment and have that warranty security blanket. Or learn to do some troubleshooting and repair on your own. GD

most definitely NGK or OEM plug wires only!

NGK for plugs and wires. GD

You should probably post pictures, pricing, and put it in the classifieds section. But also understand that a non-running, broken suspension, cracked interior, faded paint XT6 is basically a parts car and is worth virtually nothing. You can't hardly give those cars away anymore. You can't get any parts to maintain them or repair them. You aren't likely to get more than a few hundred $ for it. Regardless of how much you LOVE IT!!! GD

Low voltage codes. They will likely clear on their own after a few drive cycles. The initial crank but no start is normal for all the 04+ DBW cars. You have to power on the ECU then wait about 15 seconds for it to initialize. GD

brus brother, Just to go along with this ... I use Map Gas instead of propane when doing the same job. The Blue propane tank torches just aren't hot enough for some rusted fasteners, while the Yellow Map Gas tanks of the same size burn much hotter, and they are fairly cheap as well.