Leaderboard

I've recently bought an 89 GL, with power everything. The door locks are really easy to unlock, but every single door has a problem locking. If you push it by hand it locks, but you have to push pretty hard. The power lock won't work because the little motor can't push hard enough to lock it all the way, it does fine unlocking it though. This makes it really annoying to lock my car because I have to open every door and lock it manually after locking the driver's side with the key. Does anyone have any advice on how to loosen these locks up to get them working again?

The 30 year old grease is dried up. Take covers off, get at the mechanisms, clean out old, put in new. I use synthetic, so they work the same winter and summer.

They've been making Foresters for 22 years, with a variety of different engines, some require synthetic, some do not. Please be more specific. The best oil is new oil. I do not subscribe to using better oil. I use cheap oil (my go-to lately is a blend, anyway) and change it more often then recommended.

$3,500 and $2,800 isn’t a huge difference, well within a range, or margin of error for willingness, length of time listed, time of year, etc. Numbers are made up, though one difference may be i only do Subarus? All the totaled/rebuilds I’ve done are Subaru’s the same or one generation older or newer than this one. And most have been in the last 8 years with similar market dynamics. I think 20 years ago rebuilds had a worse prognosis. And currently the higher the price the more it shifts out of the favor of rebuilds. Older $2k subarus are all a wash. $5k and under not much difference. $10k+ is think you start seeing obvious changes. His is exactly what you said: simple, easy, no unibody (Subaru’s don’t have frames) damage. Percentages don’t much matter, the MD market volume is high and I’d think likely to support a $3,500 price tag if he isn’t in a rush which seems to be the case. Particularly with winter and tax season coming. There’s 10’s of thousands of people who have already bought a car in their mind in the coming months - fish in a barrel. people buying my cars tend to spend more as I do the brakes and timing gear before a sell. I often sell to the first person that looks and almost zero negotiating. I do things differently, so my perception may be a little off.

Full Synthetic is pretty cheap. Amsoil is my go to for the 2006 and 2018 Forester. In my 2000 Impreza I use to use dino 5-30 Quaker State, but the last time Synthetic was almost the same price. If you figure in extended drain intervals going Full Synthetic is even cost effective.

I've seen them. Really stupid idea. You have to jack the control arm up to get the taper to bite so the lock nut will go on. The part number starting with JBJ reminds me of TRW part numbers.