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Any updates on this saga?

odds are that the oiliness is from the cam cover seals being shot, not the headgaskets. make sure you reseal the oil separator plate on the back of the engine.. if it has a plastic cover, get the metal replacement & the screws to go with it (the screws for the plastic cover are too long to use with the metal one).

Weighing my options for a Weber swap. The ea82 carb seems to be down on power and has decided to no longer want to idle when cold. No obvious vacuum leaks but I haven't had time to look more closely. Also, when was the last time you saw an 88 towing a 68? I had to get rid of our 360 shell because we are planning a long distance move and didn't want to haul it with us. I gave it to my boss who is into micro cars and will do something with it. Still very happy with this car. It does every thing I ask. Commute, plow, tow, and get us out into the woods.

I phone 6... geesh, I'm on a Smith Corona typewriter ;-) but here is a LINK that describes how those with white fruit phones can do a reverse Google image search. Fingers crossed that you didn't get farked again. I missed the reference to the youtube video issue of color difference of the plugs.

It’ll look like every other subaru’s cylinders - visible crosshatching... what more do you want to look at? If the HGs are not blown, don’t touch them. I got five years from my junk yard HG’d EJ22 before they started leaking. They didn’t have an easy life in my hands either - boiled the coolant on a soft beach crossing, froze the block up in our high country (used the wrong coolant - rookie mistake!). Two years after the freezing they let go when I gassed the AC for the first time in having this engine. New HGs and she’s still going. Wish I did the rings at the same time but didn’t know about this practice back then. I’d do the cam belt kit and water pump, all coolant pipes, front and rear engine oil seals then shove it in. If you’re removing the intake manifold for whatever reason, I’d replace the coolant crossover pipe O rings too. Cheers Bennie

With the EJ five speed you’ll need to fabricate a gearbox crossmember, modified tail shaft will be needed and you’ll need a set of MPFI L series front drive shafts. You might need to modify the shifter linkages to fit the L’s body too. Make sure you’re running the same rear diff rationto that of the gearbox. If you want to run the L series dual range 5spd, you’ll need an adaptor plate and elongate the holes in the flywheel to bolt to the EJ’s crankshaft. It’s also a good ideas to have the clutch beefed up. Many talk about the XT6 clutch used in these conversions. The adaptor plate is probably the easiest way to go. Cheers Bennie

Replace the pressure switch. They're $20-$30 from Subaru and super easy - but don't over tighten them or you'll crack the receiving end threads. Yes the code references the solenoid, which is adjacent to the switch. Replace the switch first. The switch is a just a one wire harness plug and it screws into the engine directly. that's the part you want to buy and replace. The solenoids are held down by a 10mm bolt and are like $150-$250 from Subaru. These fail much less frequently than the switches, so it's not a good guess to blindly replace them. The code is often remedied by the oil switch - additionally it's only $20 instead of $200, easy to replace, and they're prone to hemorrhage oil all over the engine bay so it's just smart to replace them first or even preventatively. So there's almost no reason to not replace it unless you're competing for the guiness book of world records for being frugal. If that doesn't work - then test or replace the solenoid...after making sure you don't have rodent wiring damage, prior accident in that area damaging connectors or wiring, or it wasn't a shipped replacement engine (which are prone to having those solenoids and respective harnesses damaged during shipment due to location). If you still have a question - reread this post.