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Showing content with the highest reputation on 04/19/20 in all areas

  1. Dear all, I want to install a dashboard with rpm cluster. I received a very good dash from Mike Russo... I thank Mike very much fro his nice help! I received a RHD cluster form Australia, ordered because it is in Kilometer. I openned the LHD (received from Mike) to put the gauges from the RHD one, you can see the result on the picture. On the speedometer, there is a small black part with 2 wires fitted on it..... What is it ? (sorry no picture for that). Is it a contact to detect if the car is moving? For the seat belts ? The LHD cluster glass is damaged, do you know who can send me a good one ? Have a nice day regards from Luxemburg Marc
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  2. The EJ22 was known as EJ22E - dunno where the E came from and I don’t know that it changed when they went to an interference setup. From the EJ20G I get a bit sketchy. I think there was an EJ20H from the twin turbo setup of the early to mid 90’s. These apparently were know for spinning bearings. Theres the NA EJ251 and EJ253. Difference is AVCS or what ever it’s called to control valves etc. Anyway, I’m sure there’s a list somewhere you could find on the web. Cheers Bennie
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  3. Used engine from UPAP. Can take some time to find one. Things I look for: - Hit hard so you know it was going down the road - Good condition otherwise, lets you know the owner took care of the car - Oil pan pull the plug and check the condition of the oil that's left and no metal in the pan. Yes, it's a roll of the dice, but they give you a 30 day return and for <$400 you can have and engine, new T-Belt, gaskets and be on the road in a weekend.
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  4. Thanks, crossmember is painted and installed. Surprisingly bolted right in, welding most of it in place must have prevented distortion. It's been a while and I'm not done but I can see the light at the end of the tunnel so figured I'd post an update. One issue I didn't know about (or had forgotten) is that the studs on the back of the R180 are shorter than the R160. Double nut really tight, heat the aluminum a bit, and a lot of torque and they come out. Double nutted the R160 studs and torqued them in with some red loctite. Used the conversion races from http://wordpress.suberdave.com/ The cheapest way to put an R180 in your car. R180 knuckles do have bigger wheel bearings and hubs and brakes but also a bigger bolt pattern, and this way I didn't have to buy knuckles and brakes. Dave is a Subaru nut, check out his website if you're bored: R160 stub is on the left, R180 on the right. Have never broken one of those but I have broken two sets of spider gears now so hopefully that's solved. Stock (99 Legacy Outback) driveshaft on top, 2010 STI driveshaft on bottom. The 2007-2011 STI has the same wheelbase as the 99 Legacy so the length is right. I could have used an automatic driveshaft for my car and swapped the pinion shaft but... The STI u-joints are much bigger (left) than standard. I also really like the fact it has three u-joints, some of the Subaru driveshafts have a CV joint. Unfortunately the bolt pattern on the 2010 is a little bigger than the 2007 (what my diff and trans are from). The pilot diameter is the same though so I just drilled four new holes in the flange. Trans and diff are bolted in, axles installed, rear suspension assembled. Driveshaft is in trans and diff temporarily. The hanger bearing sits about 2" farther back than the stock one so I'm making a mount for that. When I take that back out I'm going to replace the parking brake cables. I also went through the front struts. Trying some voodoo which seems to be working, changed the valving a bit while I was in there. I recently found out that these: https://streetwiseparts.com/collections/bilstein/products/bilstein-universal-motorsports-strut-46mm?variant=1003419633&amp;fbclid=IwAR3M9uVta1yIBAVRKTcX_y6dS3dcJz5TjtoGgum_SlrgzO3rtYuTDYHzQeQ Include a strut housing you can weld tabs to and upper and lower spring perches. By the time you buy four of those and springs it gets expensive but it's an option.
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  5. yep - i've done a bunch of them. 100% success rate. the OEM axles are beast. the clicking is only from either the grease getting old or being lost. cut the boot open and if the grease is all liquid-y, like water and pours everywhere then clean and regrease and you're golden. - if the boot is already cracked or has leaked before then there simply isn't enough grease in it. i had two bust at 10,000 feet elk hunting in colorado running through trails and slogging mud all up in them and i could barely tow my trailer 2,000 miles home - i had to keep varying speeds and the rear view mirror was nearly useless it was vibrating so bad, and i tried packing grease into the open joints twice but it would sling out after 50 miles. made it home, rebooted them, and those two axles are now running on a forum members old gen subaru here. that was 10 years ago. wash, rinse, repeat. no big deal. either way - clean and repack and you're right back to where it was before the grease degraded and they're golden. the idea that CV axles are "bad" and have "failed" once clicking is heard or a boot is cracked doesn't hold true for subarus. there are viable reasons mechanics need one size fits all solutions and comments to the general un-mechanically inclined public like "it's clicking, the axle is bad, we replace them" - which the general public then translates to fact when it's not. the general public is fine changing oil ever 3,000 or 5,000 miles - then tacitly excepts that axle grease should last a half a century and never need changed. once you've seen a few and done it - it's really obvious the grease just needs changed like engine oil. this is true of Subaru OEM axles. I'm not making this claim for any other manufacturer as I focus on Subaru's almost exclusively.
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  6. The wrx crank gear is the same. You'll most likely have to fab up a mount for the coil and then see how long the boot needs to be. The 2010-2012 ej25 uses COP, the boots from them may be compatible with the wrx coils.
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  7. Great information thank you. You mentioned the camshaft and crankshaft gears need to be from a 05+ sohc engine. Do you know if the crankshaft sprocket from the stock wrx engine is the same. I’d like to keep the coil on plug if possible. Does anyone have a listing of the different lengths of boots that will fit on the coils? Thanks again for all the help
    1 point
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