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If the body is solid it’s worth getting going. I agree although I don’t know your skill level , with doing it yourself. For now. And hopefully you’re the only cat this car needs to purr. Lots of drama about the Hitachi but many are fine to go forward with. There’s several issues that can occur , or not. Best to remove , soak , and using forced air clean it out with no metal , maybe you know this stuff ?? And then a fresh carb kit. They’re around $20ish on eBay. Don’t be afraid to get most any brand. You’re not going to find a factory kit , some may hoard them but virtually don’t see them. They’re pretty much about all the same kit. Watch your float level through the sight glass on the drivers side of the carb. You’ll likely need to adjust or at least clean the heck out of the float bowl chamber. Get a factory service manual. There’s several on eBay now that apply. You can use any of those thick manuals from October 1977 through 79 for sure. They’re all the same animal. Very little to note at all. Your 79 is the first year of all States getting electronic ignition. No points ! Enjoy that. If trouble starting breath and relax. Take note of the alternator and the signal it sends to the voltage regulator and to the fuel pump. That catches lots of folks off guard. Its all got to be harmonious or it will start and die out in a few seconds. See that happening , read this all again. They recommend replacing the VR and Alt at the same time. But several folks say that doesn’t have to happen. Check each component or have them checked. No matter how solid or where you live there’s a couple spots to note for debris accumulating and causing rust-into pinhole rot , etc if in worse climate. One spot is way down under the cowl which sits in front of the front windshield. Take that off and clean up the corners. Use good light from inside and look for pinholes or any holes. Wheel aprons are notorious in salty road places. Lower firewall too. Pull the lower bolts off the fender tails and rinse out and crap with a hose. Open the front doors and you’ll see. Typical build us spot often causes that lower tail of the fender to rot. And then the body where it mates up at the sill. Rear - check brake lines , and body generally all around the tank and suspension especially where it bolts to the unibody. Fuse block has a tendency to get super hot , even catch fire on the bottom two fuses , maybe bottom three. Headlight fuses. You’ll read about it. Shifters rattle - find the bushings , little white polypropylene or similar. Not too easy to find but they’re out there. Hopefully guys are copying those and other parts now. And there’s a sort of Seat bushing on that shifter , for lack of proper name , and that sits on the tranny and takes an effort to do but also worth it if you’re really wanting to get every little itch scratched. Also a seal there atop the trans which leaks so find that. It’s small. Which brings me to the Factory Parts Manual. A few guys like me will have them. I think you may be able to find online. If so , DO IT !! Exploded views are SO helpful. You’re going to have a blast and show them up ! And way before September. Enjoy !

fairly simple engines minus the PITA carburetor. if it doesn't start you can almost bet it's the carb or ancient gas. fresh oil, verify gas is getting to the carb, clean and adjust the carb if it's worth messing with, and see what you got. they're fairly simple other than the carb.

first impressions, it looks pretty solid, not much cracking on the top of the shock tower rubbers. no rust at all where the spare tire goes, whats up with that?!?! looks like the vehicle may have fuel delivery issues, the pump isn't where it's suppose to be, could be dangling underneath? and it has the not so awesome Hitachi Carb that all these originally came with, i remember the pain to work on that original carb even after rebuilding it. that's all the input i have about it based on this one picture, maybe someone else can see something i don't.

UPDATE: It's the valve body and two solenoids. Genuine subaru part clocks in at $800. Parts and labor clock in at $500. FML. I better get another 50k out of this thing. Honestly, between the recalls and other fixes, I think I'm giving up on subies.

Solved it almost as soon as I posted. There was a ground not attached right at the relays. The ring had broken off. STuck it under one of the mounting screws, and fan works perfectly. Sometimes you get lucky and it's cheap AND easy.

Every time I have seen this it was one of the alternator brushes.

Alternator has failed. GD

Classic insurance and antique plates typically require that the car isn’t a daily driver. Otherwise, I’d get them. Bare with me, this is good to know as an option for covering certain events: My boss at my first internship had a very basic old VW rabbit that he said was worthless, but he had rebuilt all the mechanicals himself. It was wrecked and it was the other persons fault. Of course it was going to be totaled. He told the insurance adjuster that he wanted the car fixed no matter what, otherwise he looses all of his time and investment. They balked and said it was impossible but he kept insisting and they eventually did it. He also didn’t sue them so that was in his favor - almost a “fix my car and I won’t get a lawyer” deal by only implying that, without saying it. 15 years later a lady runs a red light and I plow her with my xt6. Her insurance was going to total it. needed a bumper, fender, headlight. Not a hard fix. I followed my bosses approach from 15 years ago. I met the adjuster in person and explained everything I did and why I was keeping this car. I was clear I wanted it fixed and preferred to avoid a salvage title because otherwise I’d have to go through the entire rebuild and inspection process, a waste of my time for something that wasn’t my fault. He wrote up repairs for just under the total value and then found ways to compensate additional amounts that didn’t apply to the total value (or, that’s what he said he did). Either way - he cut a very acceptable check, no lawyers needed (always a goal of mine to avoid them if possible). Anyway, thats an option to keep in mind that I’ve seen happen twice to cover repairable accidents of older cars that would have easily been totaled. It’ll only work if you have leverage of it being the other persons fault and the particular company and adjuster is willing.

Sorry guys but the moment has apparently arrived. Someday soon after the sale I will do my best to clean up all my old posts. Don’t worry , I’ll still be around. Cheers !

There are collectible insurance providers that will cover it for whatever you tell them the value is. But they all require that the car be garaged and proof of same (pictures of the car in the garage, etc) and that it NOT be a daily driver. Read between the lines here - that means you need another vehicle that IS your daily driver. Otherwise you don't qualify. In all cases, even agreed upon values, etc..... if the car is in an accident that consists of more than a bird pooping on it, the vehicle will be totaled FOR SURE. Because the *actual* value of an EA82 in the current market is basically scrap metal value. And actual replacement value is very low even on very nice condition vehicles because the nicest EA82 out there isn't going to command much more than $1500 to $2500.... which is basically nothing in the scheme of classic car values. That's the value of a mostly clapped out 20 year old farm truck. Not to mention - if it does get wrecked - repair to significant structural uni-body damage is nigh impossible. Parts can't be sourced, and they are never the same after the uni-body gets tweaked. Unfortunately the reality of uni-body cars in general. Once they are damaged or rusted they are essentially throw away items as they are all spot welded together from sheet metal that folds up like wet tissue paper in an accident. GD

If the hub has been in there for years and 30,000+ miles, and it hasn’t been driven with bad bearings for a long time then it’s likely fine. if a press is used haphazardly the hub can be damaged. this isn’t likely the case though if the bearing has been in place for a long time.

You won't know for sure until it's apart. But generally only when the bearing is completely blown (like, picking rollers out of the snow...ask me how I know )

What he said. You can use 00-04 outback/legacy knuckles as well but the ABS won't work because the sensor and tone ring are different. But it'll run and drive fine otherwise.

www.car-part.com Find one in a rust free area of the US and have them send it to you.