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WOW! This suggestion is was did it! Thank you very much, greatly appreciated. I simply rolled the window all the way up, held the button in for a couple of extra seconds then rolled it all the way down and held it for a couple of seconds. It now works from both driver and passenger doors! like magic.

Here is my only experience with Full Synthetic. In my 68 F100 with a 360 I used Valvoline 20W50 Racing Oil. I read an article in a car or racing magazine in the mid 70's that a German company tested every Racing Oil on the market at that time and Valvoline was the only one that did not break down using 5 different tests. They developed 2 more tests before it "started" to break down. A friend that sold AMSOIL talked me into trying their synthetic. My truck had over 100k miles on it at that time. After the first 2 tanks of gas the oil was on the full mark. After the third tank the oil was down a quart. The next tank it was down a quart. I noticed the oil looked dirty, so I changed it. I used a white rag to wipe the dipstick and I noticed that when it got dirty it would go down a quart. I changed back to the Valvoline 20W50 Racing Oil and now the truck has 221k miles on it. I quit driving it years ago when it started to smoke out one of the dual exhaust pipes. Once the piston rings are seated that is the time to switch to full synthetic. Our EJ22's have well over 200k miles on them. I use Federated synthetic blend. I was told they add chemicals to regular motor oil so they can call it a blend. In the summer I run 10W30 and in the winter I run 5w30 in them, but with both I substitute a quart of oil with a quart of Lucas engine oil treatment. It does help with oil consumption. I don't keep track of the mileage. When the oil looks dirty, I change it and the filter. For your car I see the FSM Recommends 5W30 synthetic for non-turbo and 5W30 Synthetic "Required" for turbo models. It does not mention 10W30 so, you may not be able to use it.

The dealers don't pour the oil from a bottle. They use a gun that pumps in a specific quantity from bulk containers. The dealer is THE WORST place to get an oil change. Possibly worse than Jiffy Lube. They hire the same high school kids as every other lube joint and they replace plenty of engines due to drain plugs falling out, etc. You aren't getting an actual technician to change oil at the dealer. Are you wiping off the dip-stick and putting it back in for a proper check? As with many things - either pay for a proper shop with actual technicians that change oil or do it yourself. The dealer is not the hot ticket for anything other than free recall repairs. GD

Hello again, yeah I know the trannies are mainly the weak links & even wrx 5 speeds but I do not plan to run it hard / abuse it in the way of any hard launches or anything. I have run the car before with some spirited curved road fun but not a lot of hard shifting etc. I just want it back on the road & and have a little more pep. Hopefully this pic uploads, here is my XT6 & new project 60 Ragtop bug (this will be getting a WRX motor swap). Thank you again & once I begin getting parts together I will update progress. I used to follow the subaruxt.com site more regularly, but with it apparently gone I will get onto here more again. Just a little more background on myself, I have had 20+ Subaru's through the years (some of the ones I wish I still had are: one of my 80's wagons (had an 80, 81 & 83), One of my Brats (had an 84 & 85), my 88 3dr RX Turbo) The one I may miss the most is a 90 Legacy 4 dr sedan, bought it wrecked and fixed it up, needed a bigger car for wife & two boys. That car with 2.2 was a tank, ran it until I just could keep up with the rust patches anymore, still ran great when had to retire it. Also my dad was a parts and service manager at a Subaru dealer for 15+ years (their 1st ever new car was a 79 wagon (gold), - wish I had that one or the 77 or 78 (can't remember which it was, but it was dark green) they had before the 79. Anyway thanks again everyone! Shaun N.