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you cannot bake them with electrolytic capacitors installed. theyll get ruined before the solder reflows. you have to remove all of them prior. ive done video cards and made custom reflow kits. theyre not car ecus but same idea applies. heres a general idea on how it works https://www.google.com/search?q=reflow+car+ecu

Just braved the near freezing blizzard conditions nearly midnight to look at an EA81 two pin Hitachi dizzy If you hold module so the brains of it is at the five , and seven of the click position, pins facing up at you The pin on the left, 7 position is the yellow which ibelieve relates to neg terminal of coil, pin on right black wire with white or yellowing white with age at 5 click position goes to positive , I think Have you a wiring diagram to get colours to neg and POS? To confirm?

I have triple checked my timing, both valve and ignition. I will double check my disty. I also talked to someone that suggested that if my main throttle butterfly is dirty, it can mess with how it closes. I'll try cleaning it thoroughly and see if that helps.

How are you guys killing EJ 5-Speeds?! My 2002 WRX was bought new by my father, we dual drove it in Autox for 5 years, maybe 10 events per year. I beat the piss out of my transmission: doughnuts and drifting in the snow, racing with multiple drivers, speed shifting, etc. The only thing we have never done with this transmission is a high-rpm clutch drop. The engine spun a rod bearing at 80k, but it wasn't until about 150k+ miles that the center differential started making noise, which seems to be a common failure mode for the Phase 2 5-speeds. I can't speak for anyone's experience but my own, and my experience it that if treated with even a modicum of mechanical empathy, the 5-speed transmission is as strong as it needs to be for the WRX. Heck, my 2002's "AA" transmission is the weakest one the USDM WRX was ever delivered with, still no problem shearing gears.

The EA81 was produced from 80 to 89, but was only used in mainstream models from 80 to 84. The EA82 wasn't even introduced till 1985, and you should be using a 1985 GL Wagon with a 2 barrel Hitachi carb as your base for ordering parts. Nothing from an 83 will fit an EA82 in a 90 Loyale. Swapping the drive gear will require drilling a new roll-pin hole in the distributor shaft. It would be much easier to just acquire the correct distributor. GD

I agree, the best bet is to source a Distributor for the Carbureted version of the EA82 engine, nothing else. As the member LoyalLion wrote: He is new to this, so I'll share here some basic information that might help him: The Carbureted EA82 engines coupled from factory to 2WD transmissions, came with Nippon-Denso distributors. While the Carbureted EA82 engines, coupled from factory to 4WD transmissions, came with Hitachi distributors... Nippon-Denso units have a faster advance curve than the Hitachi counterparts, Also, Nippon-Densos allows you to use an aftermarket ignition coil with average resistance values; while the Hitachis requires their own ignition coil, because going too low or too high in resistance values on the coil, gets a burnt ignition module, faster. Ignition module is what the distributor has inside, instead on points. Furthermore: Nippon-Denso units are reliable and simplistic, easy to service distributors, they uses an easy clip-on by hand cap and the rotor goes pushed down also by hand only; while the Hitachi counterparts has lousy screws, specially the infamous rotor screw which is the culprit of many horror stories of people being left stranded in the midle of nowhere by a loose rotor screw. I preffer Nippon-Densos any day, in my own humble opinion, they're way far better for many reasons. I hope this Helps; Kind Regards.