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Went out for some more desert adventures last weekend. This is a perfect car for the dirt roads in the Mojave. Most areas don’t require tons of ground clearance, and the independent suspension soaks up most of the smaller bumps with ease, especially with these larger tires.

Thank you Dave!

The code P105 is for the Pressure Sensor. You will find it on the front of the strut tower behind the air filter box. It is the one with 3 wires on the connector. Check those vacuum lines. There should be a label on the hood for vacuum routing. I would find a used one and replace it first. If that does not fix the code, you will have to check voltages on it and the ECM that the 3 wires connect to. They are in the FSM under Diagnostics. BTY, OBDII was mandatory 1,1,96 on all US cars and light trucks. Subaru started in 95 for most models. You can download the FSM (Factory Service Manual) for free on the following links. I donated to both. I preferer the zip file, but the other site has other sections that can be very handy. Click Parent Directory to go back. Here as one zip file. Here as individual files.

I bought one from a Subaru dealer a number of years ago. I figured $3.00 per year the old one lasted wasn't too bad a deal. Need a new one every 30 years. They can fail without triggering the ECU to set a code. If it is telling the ECU the engine is hot, it won't pump the extra fuel needed to start and run a cold engine.

basically a lack of maintenance, period. keeping up with oil, oil changes is maintenance keeping up with timing, and related components is maintenance. keeping the cooling system in good working order & proper levels of coolant is maintenance. people today have no concept of maintenance - they get in and drive, period.. no idea of how to check oil, coolant levels, air pressure in tires, etc.. surprised a lot of them even know how to put gas in..

had this happen on my 2002 Forester - of course it happened in the dead of winter, too.. in my case, it was a bad case of rust in the small hose connections attached to the filler neck.. as in rusted completely shut so vapors could not move around. I would not expect that in Colorado, but i suppose anything is possible. there is also a small "switch" thing attached to the filler neck, up fairly high, that can be purchased separately.. called a "fuel shutoff solenoid" for me, replacing the entire filler neck, including the above mentioned solenoid, was the answer/cure. The replacement filler neck i purchased came with the solenoid already on it. fwiw, i do have a cel for the evap canister solenoid located at the charcoal canister and the car runs fine, and takes fuel fine, so i do not believe that particular unit has anything to do with fueling.. I do have a new one here, but getting to the old one, and getting it off.. yeah.. major rust monster involved, which is why it has not been done.

Just put a 251 in it. The 2.0 will be down on power, the ECU and gearing isn't setup for it's power band and if you need parts like rings or valves - not available in the US. GD

disconnecting hoses is one way to troubleshoot the issue. Could be the 'drain' valve is stuck or it's hose plugged with spider/wasp nest or ??? the worst case, the evap valves built in the top of the tank are stuck. the evap system changes from model year to model year and you need to find the diagram for your model. has the car sat unused for a long period of time or has it regularly been 'topped-off' when filled with fuel in the past?

I'd guess it has an aftermarket starter from years ago (maybe before you owned it?). If it's a Subaru unit I'd get another used Subaru starter and swap the new contacts/plunger into it. Or take it apart and start tracing power through it to look for a problem area if you're interested in trying to repair it. I've never gotten beyond contacts/brushes for electric motors and starters so I'm not sure what that means but I assume you can apply power as needed, and work your way from the terminals inward, one step at a time looking for continuity and power loss each step of the way. Outer terminal to inside of the terminal - does it have continuity/power? Then move on to the next shortest distance....etc. And ask around for how to test windings.

My 1984 GL Turbo at subiefest2020. The only classic one that attended.