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Showing content with the highest reputation on 05/04/21 in all areas

  1. Yes it was you I was thinking of! Wow, that's great. Proof the EJ25s are capable of great mileage if maintained well.
    1 point
  2. There are little clips that need to be removed to get the plug off the injector. Use a small pick (And a magnet!) to remove the safety clip.
    1 point
  3. Thanks guys. I've got a spare alt, will pick up some globes and replace those, check wiring and swap alt if it's bad.
    1 point
  4. 90*F today, another round of severe storms atm.
    1 point
  5. As Bennie says I had alternator issues this week, traced it to the LEDs I had put in the dash warning lights. Same thing would happen if your warning light globes were blown, no current going to the alternator field windings so no charging. Although I would think the slightly more modern L series would have a resistor across the globe filament so the alt would keep working if the globes blew. But it sounds weird as well and is getting hot, if it is the original alt then it may well be on the way out.
    1 point
  6. Check that the charge globe isn’t blown. That’ll cause you all sorts of issues. Don’t use LEDs in there either. Ask Silverbull3t about it Cheers Bennie
    1 point
  7. 2006 5-Speed Subaru Baja -- RARE - $4,800 2006 160K, - CO https://boulder.craigslist.org/cto/d/hygiene-speed-subaru-baja-rare/7315449537.html
    1 point
  8. Those are almost never preventatively replaced. They’re relatively easy to do in the car. Pull axle and replace. I wouldn’t do it unless the history and/or condition of the trans and seals wowed me. I might make the decision based on condition history storage. But they do leak occasionally, that’s a very old trans, and are very simple to do right now Mark exact location and count turns if you do. It needs installed the exact same location and depth to orient the front diff guts.
    1 point
  9. The water dunk helps blow off some of the carbon and oxidization that inevitably occurs during the heating process, but the main purpose of quenching copper is to quickly cool it, as copper doesn't harden when quenched (unlike some other materials). It's not required, but it results in a better finished product, and less chance of a burn. Same goes for the sanding, it just knocks down the high spots from the previous installation, giving you a better surface to seal with. If the washer has ridges that catch your fingernail, that is a good candidate for a quick post-anneal sanding.
    1 point
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