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Two of the rear R160/R180 conversion axles. Seems to be the last weak link in the black Outback's drivetrain. Left and right are slightly different lengths so luckily I had one of each and broke one of each. They've been disappointingly weak but on the plus side they're much easier to replace in the field than a trans or diff. Really have to get the billet knuckle program going so we can put front axles in the rear. Also had standard front and rear axles packed.

if you used an LED bulb, that can cause hyper flashing too. if a bulb has an internal problem.putting it on the other side of the car should cause hyperflashing there.

Go to parts.subaru.com Open up a second window and do the same. Compare internal part numbers till you are satisfied they will interchange (with or without a rear diff swap). The CVT-HD that uses different fluid didn't come out till the 15+ WRX and the 16+ H6 IIRC. GD

I know if only life would take a break we could all catch up.

This sounds like a grounding problem. One bad ground on a single bulb-holder can cause odd problems on other bulbs. Is there any corrosion around any of the bulb-holders? Does the metal body of each bulb-holder measure zero-Ohms to a good ground on the car-body?

Never did the rebuild. Just replaced the one O-ring on top and all was fine after that. Local dealer price was about $2.

free wagon is now retired as daily driver has served me well. My son is going to make her into a camping rig. I’ll update photos as we progress

Couple recent fab projects. R was sick of the factory rear lateral link adjusters either self adjusting or rusting solid in place. Really don't like the idea of having the threaded bit right in the middle. We made up these from some right and left hand bolts, threaded rod, bungs, and 1.125" tubing. Brush painted them hoping that will hold up a little better than our normal rattle can painting. Doesn't look as good and started assembly before they were fully cured because we're that impatient. Used Whiteline bushings, have always just used Subaru in the past, they seem to last indefinitely. These are far easier to install though. Had to cut the old ones out. Replaced eccentric bolts with 14mm bolts and nuts, welded some spacers inside the stock rings to locate the bolts. Seems to work so far. Finally got tired of using this dilapidated wooden block for the floor jack for our lifted Subarus.

Do you have any pictures of the build, such as the frame plating, leaf spring mounts, cross member ECT. This thing is super cool.